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Complete Rewire Project

Discussion in 'Electrics' started by Indycars, Feb 26, 2015.

  1. Indycars

    Indycars
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    I need some help with my wiring diagrams. Specifically the 4way flasher, how do I wire the flasher and switch. I included a DPST switch (S, T, U & V), I think that's what needed.

    Also there may very well be other mistakes, please give my drawing the once over. I tried to label with numbers on the fuse panel and letters elsewhere, the important connections.

    The light switch is made by Ron Francis and has the dimmer internal to the switch. Brights are had by pulling the switch all the way out..... see included RF instructions below for more info.

    HeadlampCircuit04.jpg

    Below defines the steering column connector. Sorry it's not in order, I found the table after I created the steering column icon.

    SteeringColumnWiring&ColorCodeFromIdidit.jpg

    Below is the Ron Francis headlight switch instructions, they maybe helpful.


    RonFrancisHeadlightSwitch.jpg
     
    #1 Indycars, Feb 26, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  2. fletcherson

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    The flashers are the turn signals, the turn signal feeds will feed through the flasher circuit, when its energized, it will power all of them through the flasher circuit. The switch will isolate the circuit, that's why there is a separate flasher required. The flasher switch will allow you to energize the turn signals either through the turn signal circuit or the flasher circuit, not both. I wonder why they didn't include a schematic for that circuit? Basically, the signal wires will feed through the dpdt flasher switch, when in the off position, the signals will work normally, when in the flasher position, or on, the switch will power all four signals through a separate power feed via the emergency flasher. That is typically accomplished in the steering column as the signal wires are routed through it. A dtdp switch is on in both directions, it's a diverter. I hope I didn't confuse the issue. You may need to incorporate a relay in the circuit. I will look and see if any of the schematics in any of my manuals are simple enough to show that circuit without showing the entire dash harness. If so, I will post it.
     
  3. RPM

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    Where is @Exjunk when you need him.
     
  4. RPM

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  5. Indycars

    Indycars
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    That is my schematic, not some companies. I included the unwired flasher and switch to make it easier to talk about.

    The steering column that I an using is from a about a 1967 Ford truck or Falcon. Obviously there were no 4way flashers then.

    I get the concept you are explaining, not sure if I can put that into wires, time will tell. Thanks for checking the manuals, that could be helpful with the right schematic.
     
  6. Indycars

    Indycars
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    Probably leaping a tall building or running faster than a locomotive or ...... :roflmao:
     
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  7. ellis8500

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    Here ya go: Fuse 8 to S, T to Flasher X, Flasher L to K,P,Q,R. I made mistake on drawing, C & F should be K & P. You will need a diode in each wire from K,P,Q,R connecting to the flasher. 1N5402 3 amp diodes should be OK for up to a 36 watt bulb.




    flasher.JPG
     
  8. Indycars

    Indycars
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    Thanks so much for the help!!!

    I will update my schematic and repost to confirm. I should have said earlier that all my lights are LED, except for the headlights. Will I still need the 4 diodes???
     
  9. ellis8500

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    Yes you will need the diodes, otherwise all four lights would turn on when you used turn signals or brakes. The fuse should be an Always Hot circuit, not one tied to the ignition switch. With LED lights you can use 1N4001 1 amp diodes. Can probably buy 4 for less than $1.
     
  10. Indycars

    Indycars
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    Does this look about right?

    HeadlampCircuit04.jpg
     
  11. EX JUNK

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    Sorry, I was tied up with some other things and could not get to answer you earlier. However, from your schematic in the above post it would seem as though you have things well in hand. My hat's off to you for the excellent drawing that you've made.

    Jim
     
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  12. ellis8500

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    Here is another circuit that eliminates the brake circuit when the flasher is ON. One less wire and diode. You will need a SPDT switch rather than the SPST that you have shown. 4Way.jpg
     
  13. Indycars

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    Not a problem Jim, Ellis took good care of me.

    Thanks Jim for that nice comment!
     
  14. Indycars

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    Just in case someone else needs this schematic, where does "A" go to after the switch.

    I think I will use the first suggestion, since I have a lighted switch panel with six switches. All of which have been taken, so there is not spares and they are SPDT. They should work just fine for a SPST that I need.
     
  15. ellis8500

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    A would connect to N just as it does in your original circuit. I designed my entire electric system and harnesses. Been playing with that stuff since I was 12...about 53 years ago. Used to check the tubes in the black & white TV when I was 13. Walgreens used to have tube testers and vacuum tubes.
     
  16. Indycars

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    I remember those testers, were they a good test for tubes???
     
  17. ellis8500

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    Yes they were. Back then many people would fix their own radios by just replacing tubes. Usually one could tell when a tube was bad because the heater would burn out and the tube would not glow. TV's had a lot more tubes and were a serious shock hazard because the picture tube would act like a big capacitor which could deliver a 10,000V+ shock. So ya had to use a grounding lead for the pic tube before ya started reaching deep into the set. Plus ya had to have a cheater cord so one could get power to the set when the back was off. A common problem was the "Fly Back Transformer" going bad which required an experience tech to replace. That's when they had to "Take it back to the shop" for repairs....which meant....big $$$$$'s.
     
  18. fletcherson

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    Sorry for the delay, got tied up. The schematics are pretty busy with dash circuits, etc. looks like you have it under control now anyways.
     
  19. roadmonster

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    I also have a '67 column (early GM tilt-telescope, no switch). I found it easier to use a trailer harness and run a separate relayed brake light wire through the harness to a terminal strip. Turn signals from column also go into the harness and end at terminal strip. You can run as many lights as you want this way. I run extra lights for safety. I have extra lights beside the license plate and high on the turtledeck right behind the tub. When driving taillights operate normally, when signalling taillights and license lights flash, and when braking all 6 light up in a wall of red light that makes night driving much safer. You also get a very short wire run with full 12v because you're right at the battery. The harness is very compact and about $18 at any auto store.
     
  20. Indycars

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    What do you mean by "no switch"??? Turn signal or 4-way???

    A picture would be worth a thousand words.

    Love to see your handy work, need all the ideas I can get for the physical side of this wiring project.
     






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