i see no "upload a file" button as depicted in your instructional. maybe i don't have enough posts or something.It's possible if you have the "Upload a File" button. It should be between the "Post Reply" button
and the "More Options" button. You will see the "Upload a File" button in the tutorial linked to below.
Photos Posting Guide with Pictures
Also of interest ....
Photo Software and Resizing
It is a tad on the wide side, but not too bad.
You only need 10 post before you can include pics. This has been a known problem for a longi see no "upload a file" button as depicted in your instructional. maybe i don't have enough posts or something.
that there may be my issue. not sure what i have so far but at least it may be that and not just that i'm thick headed. *oh wait a minute... as i type this i see a button for uploading a file. i'll experiment later.You only need 10 post before you can include pics. This has been a known problem for a long time. It's sporadic and it comes and goes, even for the same person. It's happened to me and then one day it was OK again.
am i to understand the forum was set up by ron of rpm? i should mention that while i find the situation only a bit frustrating (i've no build thread yet) the overall format is more welcoming than the ntba forum which may just serve as a back up of sorts for the club. thanks for your input sir!Ron is not a website guy and it probably costs too much to hire someone to fix the problem.
Snicklefritz,
Absolutely nothing wrong with running drum brakes all the way around. Most all parts are still available at a reasonable cost. The one exception as you have found out is the backing plates. Don't despair as they are out there but it does take a little searching to find some of them. We needed to build front and rear drum brakes that would take 4" wide linings. Also needed the drums to be aluminum with iron linings. These all needed to be based off the 59 era Mercury/Ford 9" brakes that were never a production part. Cast the the aluminum drums. Two separate casting has there was a difference front to rear. Rolled the steel bands and lazer cut the inner rib that the springs attached to. Built a simple welding fixture to hold the band while welding the rib in place. Ordered a cast iron 12' diameter pipe ans sawed if in to 4.5" rings. Machined them and the inside surface of the aluminum drum to a press fit. Then staked the two together. Bought the wheel cylinders, adjusters and springs. Had the linings bonded and riveted in place. Bolted it together just like a family sedan. Found the early backing plates after a short search up in the Midwest. Bought all he had as the fronts were the hardest to find due to spindle changes in later years. So if we could do that then you can surely find what you need. Drum brakes in a lite weight roadster will be more then enough to stop you. And in my opinion they look great painted black behind a chromed wheel. If I ever figure out he photo posting secret handshake I will post a few pictures of those brakes in construction. Good luck with your project and have fun while you can. Getting old ain't for sissies!
George
if you get a chance can you measure kingpin to kingpin?
My rear axle is from a 1979 Chevy Malibu. The front tread width is 5 inches wider than the rear.
It's about 54 inches from center to center of the kingpins.