had any one built the ccr frame and have strep by step photos?

[RPM]

The firewall on the 10" stretch is 53" from the kick up, measured on top of the main rail.

 

[cooter]

10-4.. I shall do some measureing tonight. Thanks.

 

[fletcherson]

Plans say 90" to long cut. I added 10", so 100" on the long cut welded up yielded the 95" im pretty close to your set up. I still need body on site to be sure. I sure appreciate all the help. Maked my build easier.

When mounting the engine, keep in mind if you ever plan on adding a blower, so you can allow room between the radiator and crank pulley for the blower belt and pulley. I know you didn't initially advertise that you wanted to do that, but if you ever do, be ready! Most of the ones I have seen have the firewall about 1-2" behind the parting line between the block and bell housing. Just allow room for whatever distributor you plan to use, assuming it's a Chevy engine. I think they look better as close to the distributor as possible, within reason, but have seen some with more room that look ok. It's a personal taste decision.

 

[cooter]

I thought about that. That blower drive needs some room. 283 chevy is my power plant.

 

[cooter]

I have s 42" engine bay according to figures. Im gonna channel body so if worse come to worse ill scooth it rearward a fudge if i see i need room.

 

[RPM]

42" is good.

 

[cooter]

 

[cooter]

 

[cooter]

these ccr plans show the radius rod mount at 49 1/2" the tab has dual mounting holes in one tab. then measure from that same hole rearward should be 50 7/8". problem is I added 10" to main rail and 6" to top rail where fuel tank batt and 20" truck bed mount per plans. do I lengthen the rear radius rods the 16" added or scratch all ccr's dementions and start from scratch? I like the long rr look and single mount. ccr plans say front rr is 50 3/4' rear rr is 41 3/4. well the rear is jacked up cause I changed my frame rails basically from firewall back and the top fraim rail. answers o wise one.

 

[cooter]

total length of my frame rail is 118'

 

[drumgene]

I had strep a few years ago, it was painful. hehe

 

[T-Test]

Split the mounting brackets/2 per side and mock up with radius rods attached to front and rear axles. You don't want that long a radius rod on the rear. It will fold/bend under hard acceleration.

 

[cooter]

settled on 51" radius rods front and rear. if she bows up on me ill put a iron cross gusset in the middle of rear radius rods for strength. ccr uses a Z. I seen one on here with a big o T.

 

[T-Test]

settled on 51" radius rods front and rear. if she bows up on me ill put a iron cross gusset in the middle of rear radius rods for strength. ccr uses a Z. I seen one on here with a big o T.

My Bucket has T's welded in the rear radius rods, and even though I only have about 200hp. from a stock 305 chebby, it still picks up the front wheels when needed.
I broke a motor support like that. Costly!!!

 

[cooter]

Im anxious to get this chassis rollin. Maybe i should run 60/40 drag shocks up front?

 

[RESINATOR]

You should put the gussets in the rear bars, we always run them no matter the length.

 

[cooter]

I better get me some of them.

 

[RPM]

I better get me some of them.

Let me know what you want for radius rod supports and I'll have them for you, when you pick up the radius rods.

 

[cooter]

I think i will go with G. Thanks again.

 

[T-Test]

Im anxious to get this chassis rollin. Maybe i should run 60/40 drag shocks up front?

Use those with caution on a Bucket!! When the front end comes back down at speed-- you don't know which way you'll be headed!! The ladder type frame is strong enough by it self to not need any help with launches.
Just look at some videos of "Wild Wille Borsh" and his T!!