Hawaiian Style 23 T
- Thread starter T4TWO
- Start date
T4TWO
Member
Another little update. Today I manage to un stick the brake drums. Wheeeeeeeew, I thought maybe the pumpkin was frozen. Because it was sitting for the last three years. Even though I'm going to convert it to rear disk brakes. I took some 40 grit sand paper to clean up the drum and shoes, and turned the manual adjustment star almost all the way back. Just so I can keep the tires on and roll her around if I have to. Also because I don't own or know of anyone here that has wheel dollies. Maybe time to invest in a set.
I then started to take a wire wheel to the frame. I was having a hard time with the wire wheel. I mean Geeeeez how tuff can paint be, right? Well I have to purchase a couple of new wire wheels from out local hardware store. Because it seems to be powder coating. Hopefuly tomorrow I can do a little more work. Sorry, forgot to take some pix's of todays work to keep this thread updated. I'll take a few tomorrow and post them up. That is "if" I get a chance to work on her.
I then started to take a wire wheel to the frame. I was having a hard time with the wire wheel. I mean Geeeeez how tuff can paint be, right? Well I have to purchase a couple of new wire wheels from out local hardware store. Because it seems to be powder coating. Hopefuly tomorrow I can do a little more work. Sorry, forgot to take some pix's of todays work to keep this thread updated. I'll take a few tomorrow and post them up. That is "if" I get a chance to work on her.
T4TWO
Member
Also it seems that I have an open diff. Anyone know where I might check out and or purchase a 3rd member with a posi? Also does anyone know what size gearing came stock in a 56 pumpkin? I'm hoping for something around 373-410 gearing. If it comes stock with 342 gearing then I will upgrade to the 373 or 410 gears.
Telman2
Active Member
T4TWO said:
Here's a thread where I asked about wheel dollies
I ended up ordering the set in my first post from Speedway and my bucket has been sitting on them since I put it away for winter. Almost every time I have to do something in the garage I end up moving the bucket even if it's only a foot so I can access something. Yes as the guys suggested I could use my floor jack but the wheel dollies are so much easier because the bucket is sitting on them 24/7.
LumenAl
Member
Yep... they work great... if you have a 3" air angle grinder, these work (they have other sizes too... from this place they are $.80 each, available in fine, medium, and course.
3" Roloc - Quick Change Disc - (Type R)
You might check with your local auto paint supply house too...
3" Roloc - Quick Change Disc - (Type R)
You might check with your local auto paint supply house too...
Wild Mango
Member
After you got her stripped as far back as you can don't forget to "kill" what rust is left (like in the bottom of the pits) with a proprietry acid based rust killer like Jenolite.
TheAntiBoyd
Member
Buy a small sandblasting gun at Harbor Freight or wherever. yeah it'll take awhile, but it gets the job done. We rented an industrial blaster from a heavy equipment rental place and sandblasted Dads 55 chevy frame. After that we used a grill scrubbing pad with a handle on it and some acid to wash down the frame, then rinsed with plenty of water. After that, apply epoxy (PPG DP90). The stuff is as tough as nails, but its also under a full body, so we werent concerned about fading. In your situation, Id still use an epoxy primer, considering the high salt content your car will be exposed to. I wouldnt really recommend an etching primer, because these are lacquer based, and you'd want to put an epoxy over it as a sealer anyway. Sandblasting or grinding on it is going to be plenty of mechanical adhesion to begin with, and since the frame will be exposed, I would probably use a metal impregnated bondo or Rage gold to slick it up. The metallic filler I apply on bare steel, any Bondo type product, I prefer to apply it over the epoxy primer, since this allows the entire frame to be encapsulated in water"proof" epoxy (Note that you cant apply any filler over the top of an etch primer) Thats just how I roll; theres a million ways to do it, and most will work. Kudos to you on taking on that project, you are doing great and Im sure its going to be top notch
you can buy a blasting pot on line for less than $100 including shipping. don't use silica, use aluminum oxide for the media. lay a tarp down and you can reclaim the used stuff by straining it. for smaller parts, get a washer or dryer box to use as a cabinet. that hundred bucks will be one of the best investments you can make in putting your T back on the road. add up what you are spending on supplies to strip it. you might be surprise to find this a cheaper way to go. you can sell it after your thru to recoupe some of the expence.
Ron
Ron
