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Keepers build

Keeper said:
Thanks

I figured it was worth the $150 in parts try it myself. If I screwed up I can always take to the trans shop and let them sort it out. Was a good learning experience, I just bought the Haynes manual for overhauling the 700 and followed along. Was not nearly as hard as I thought. Of course I have not tested it yet!!!

I do not have the torque converter yet. I will probably go with one that is slightly higher then stock. The engine has a mild 262 cam in it so I do not need a very high converter as the power band is only 1300-5600. I will also take the advice of the trans shop owner (family friend) as to what I should get.


I did not realize how messy the garage was until I seen that picture!

Thanks Keeper, press on...:)
 
Geez mr. ... where have i heard that before?? lol

Ron
 
Not a ton of work on the T going on in the garage right now I have been to busy "remodeling" the garage that is. Added heat, insulation, bigger compressor, and I built some much needed cabinets.

On the bucket side I have been gathering some more parts.

My rad shell (30 Chevy):
24feb%20002.jpg


Steering box:
24feb%20004.jpg


Garage pics here: You can see the new cabinets, compressor and heater :D

Garage Pics

Much more comfortable out there now when its -10 outside!!

Now that I finally have the garage back together I can get back to work on the bucket.
 
Nice upgrade on the garage. What is under the car cover?
 
That is the wife's 1987 Corvette. I will hopefully own a lift in the next 6 months to get it out of my way...lol

BTW The rad shell is a 1930 chev, not a 32. I cannot find the edit button!

Fixed it for you :D

:thumb:
 
Hey Keeper, they look good the way they are. Will you be drilling holes or creatively "sculpting" the pieces? If you have hydralic shock mounts that are like RPM's, then I think a neat series of holes. How much does each piece weigh now and how much do you plan to whittle away? Also what is the material?

John
 
it looks good. Coming along nicely. I wouldn't want to put to many holes in the steering arms that may cause problems while driving on some of the ruff roads or bumps. But thats just me. Should be fine I guess if it were small wholes like 3/8's inch and only about 2 per. I just want you to be safe.
 
Nice work. :hooray:
 
Thanks

I used 3/8 angle steel since I could not bend 3/8 plate. Not to sure on drilling "speed holes". They do weigh a fair bit probably around 1lb each.

As for thinning them out. If I was to do anything, it would be along the sides, maybe an 1/8 or so. I might just round the edges a bit more and call it a day. I tried to make them so the hiem matches the radius of the arm.
 
Finished up the steering arms today: I think they turned out alright. I may "thin" them a little as they look a bit chunky, but I will wait until I get the rest of the front end together before I decide that.

steeringarms001.jpg


steeringarms002.jpg


steeringarms 003.jpg
You are doing nice clean work, Please don't take this wrong, but, those axle bosses are not wrapped very good (at all, to speak of) I have had to fix a few (not my axles) because a boss broke out, from hitting a bump or chuck hole.. I wrap my bosses as far around as possible... or flag them... just me here.. :)
 
You are doing nice clean work, Please don't take this wrong, but, those axle bosses are not wrapped very good (at all, to speak of) I have had to fix a few (not my axles) because a boss broke out, from hitting a bump or chuck hole.. I wrap my bosses as far around as possible... or flag them... just me here.. :)

Are you talking about where the kingpin runs through? Wrapping the axle around the end there?
 
Ted has a good point however I know of many many cars on the road for many years with that kind of joint with no problems at all. Flagging the joint is an excellent idea and one that should be considered if someone is building their own axle.

Ron
 
Are you talking about where the kingpin runs through? Wrapping the axle around the end there?
Yes, the short end piece that holds the king pin, that is the boss... When cutting the axle to fit the radius of the boss, I leave both sides long so as to be able to heat and wrap those left over side pieces around the boss, then I weld at least the first pass with my Heli-arc welder, sometimes the whole weld process, and sometimes the last pass with a wire welder, for that big bead look, which can be prettied up with a hand file, if you like that look... I have heard it a million times, there are tons of axles made that way, but when it is you are someone you love sitting somewhere (alive I hope) with a broken axle, it is now a different story.. been there and done that too many times... Only here to help keep us all alive and our cars also... :)
 
I have seen this done one of two ways. One way is to turn the boss down a 1/4" and wrap the ends all the way around it. The other is to mill a 1/4" slot on each side of the boss and trim the axle ends so they don't go past the boss. Just wrapping the ends around the axle will cause clearance problems with the spindle. This is by far the best way to build an axle and is the way the MAS axles were built years ago. Any welding weather flagged or not should be done by someone who really knows his stuff when it comes to welding.

Ron
 

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