Low Slung T

[dwsatt21]

Been thinking about which torque converter to get. I had a summit brand 1800-2200 in my wish list for awhile but given the reviews on that converter and my research on stall speeds, that thing is out of the questions. Currently leaning towards a Hughes GM 30B but was wondering about other brands that you all might recommend. I've read quite a bit on here about stall speeds, and talked to Hughes about it, so I'm thinking the 3,000 stall should be a about right, just don't know a lot about different brands and it doesn't seem like any one talks about them much. What brands would you guys recommend, and which ones should I run from?

 

[fletcherson]

Been thinking about which torque converter to get. I had a summit brand 1800-2200 in my wish list for awhile but given the reviews on that converter and my research on stall speeds, that thing is out of the questions. Currently leaning towards a Hughes GM 30B but was wondering about other brands that you all might recommend. I've read quite a bit on here about stall speeds, and talked to Hughes about it, so I'm thinking the 3,000 stall should be a about right, just don't know a lot about different brands and it doesn't seem like any one talks about them much. What brands would you guys recommend, and which ones should I run from?

Are there any transmission supply businesses local to you? I used to buy remanufactured converters for about $60.00 and if the counter person is knowledgeable, various stall speeds are available. I have also used TCI before with okay results.

 

[Spanky]

Mine is a B&M 1900-2100 stall behind my mild 350 Chevy with a TH 350 trans, (just to keep me from having to stomp on the brake pedal at the stop light). It works fine!

 

[Island Girl]

Any major brand that you can get thru Summit, Jegs, or even Amazon, is going to be fine for all but the most monster of boosted/pro street motors.

Always ask the tech guys for the brand you plan to buy for their input for stall speed and details based on a lot of details about your motor..

Quality wise, there's not a lot of difference between the brands, as long as you keep the comparisons apples to apples and oranges to oranges. Big outlets like Summit and Jegs don't like brands with high return rates, especially since their return policies are usually pretty liberal . . . a good reason to order from them in general

What are you running for a motor, 3000 seems better suited to a much modified small block than a stock or even mildly modded one. 1900 2400 would be plenty to not have to jam on the brake pedal at stop lights.

When you look at reviews, always read between the lines . . . . way too many buttheads make bad parts decisions or don't have nearly the knowledge they think they do, and then blame the part for their failure to do their homework and take good advice.

Don't forget, there's thousands of budget weekend warrior racers out there running Summit converters without issues.

 

[dwsatt21]

Island Girl - I spent about and hour on the phone with Hughes and that is what they recommended based on my engine, tranny, rear gear, tire size and weight. I'm running and LT1 engine that was originally in my Trans Am before I went crazy with an engine for it. In my Trans Am it put 300 hp and 345 ft/lbs to the ground. I also have zero intentions of leaving it alone. Directly after making sure that my bucket doesn't have any major issues, I plan on putting at least a cam and some head work to it. I'm a standard transmission guy. Most everyone I talked to says smaller stall except the hughes guy. All this talk of stall speeds is like a foreign language to me. lol

 

[Island Girl]

Did you talk to the TCI, ATI, and B&M folks . . . .

If they suggested a bit lower on the stall, go back and ask the Hughes guy why he suggests higher . . . may be something about how their converters are built.

If you plan on more mods, then the higher stall will fit that bill fine

Be sure to write out all you motor specs so you don't mistakenly give different info to different tech guys.

 

[409T]

I have a 3000 rpm stall Hughes converter and I'm very happy with it. I have also pulled quite a few 2200-2500 rpm converters and replaced them with 3000 - 3200 rpm stall ones for people who didn't like keeping both feet on the brake pedal at a stop light. It is important to remember that horse power and other mods don't play a very big part in making decisions about an engine at 900 rpm. At that rpm horsepower will generally be well below 100, probably closer to 60-65. Tire size and rear end gearing will make some difference, but so will the condition of the braking system and brake pedal ratio.

 

[Gerry]

As above. The biggest factor in stall (not flash stall) is the weight of the car along with the torque. One of the reasons a 'standard' TC will make you press the brake peddle hard at a stand still, is that the blade angles etc in the TC are set for the weight of the car that the TC was originally designed for.

So if your TC was in a 3000lb car and its now in a 1900lb Bucket if will still be 'pushing' that original 3000lbs in its build. I had mine stalled by an additional 350-500 rpm.

Used a 3000 stall TC way back in the day on a street car and after a few miles took it out and replaced it with a 2200. Too much 'slip' (high flash stall),mpg in the ditch and a distinct delay in take up, all fine for a race car to bring the launch up to the power curve/cam but a nightmare on the street.

As always JMHO

 

[dwsatt21]

Full frame weld going down. My buddy, who used to weld for a living, came out and we(he) is welding up the frame and everything else.

 

[DonnyRay]

Way to go dwsatt21.

 

[dwsatt21]

Frame is welded and painted. I used rattle cans to do the etching primer after I completely stripped the frame to bare metal but took it to a buddies shop to lay down some base clear. Looks pretty decent. Here are some pics of that journey.

Also put the engine on the stand and got some work done on it. It’s getting all cleaned up, painted and some new gaskets. I found that the rear main was missing one of the bolts. Thinking that may have had a pet in why it leaked.

 

[Spanky]

Looking good! Remind us what the body paint will look like - black with flames, right?

 

[dwsatt21]

That’s the plan Spanky. Just a fresh version of what it had/has. Planning on a matte finish for it.

 

[dwsatt21]

Update - Just been cleaning up and painting things. Almost ready with my engine. Just need a few odds and ends. The things I stole off it when I built my engine for the Trans Am. Had the injectors cleaned and flow tested since they had been sitting for a long time. It’s looking pretty good and hopefully doesn’t have oil leaks anymore.
Also been painting the front suspension. I have everything painted and drying except the axle and the leaf spring. Planning on getting them painted by the end of today.
Bought all new bolts for the suspension. Just regular grade 8 stuff nothing too fancy. Decided since I’m unemployed at the moment I needed to draw a line somewhere. I can always change them later.

 

[dwsatt21]

Can anyone tell me what this is? It’s with my front end parts from RPM.

 

[dwsatt21]

Oh and...

 

[old round fart]

Looks like the king pin retainer bolt. Goes in the axel boss on a ford axle. If it’s a tube axel you don’t need it. There is probably a set screw to do it.

 

[dwsatt21]

Thanks ORF. Won’t be needing them then. Mine does have the set screws.

 

[dwsatt21]

Rear suspension is together. I am waiting on a few more safety washers and I need to get a few bolts that are just slightly longer. I almost started adjusting my suspension but realized I would be wasting my time until the chassis is loaded with all the weight.
Next is to check out this transmission I have. Going to drain the oil and see if anything concerning is in it.

 

[dwsatt21]

Not to many words for this. Just wondering if I should rebuild it myself. There is sand in the pan too..