Mounting transmission crossmember

[Zandoz]

Bill.

I don't think letting that mount float is not a good idea. The rear transmission mount actually locates that engine in the fore and aft direction. If it is allowed to move around or tries to rotate it might work your front mounts pretty good. By making that cross member rigid it will add a lot of torsional stiffness to your frame. If you want to make it removable then you might consider adding a threaded doubler to that cross member flange. Make it 1/4" thick and tack it to your frame. Then run the tap into the side of the frame rail. That should give you 7/16" thread engagement. Tap it for a fine thread and you will increase the thread count engaged. Then all you have to do is put a fillet weld around your 1'4" plate to the frame rail. Might find a school shop program that will do it on the fly. Buy them a beer ...opps! make that a root beer and call it a day. Good Luck!

George

The motor mount system I'll be using should be more than sufficient to keep my little V6 in it's place...it's designed for an off-road racing buggy with an engine nearly double the weight and 4 or more times the horsepower and torque. If I do see signs of excess movement, I'll put bolts through the cups and tube once I have the angles where I want them.

Before doing a doubler and tapping, I'd probably just go with what I originally had planned...welded in crush prevention tubes and bolts running clear through the rails.

I wish the shop program here would take in outside work. Between the T project, the Cougar project, the trailer project, etc; I'd keep them busy for several years. LOL

 

[Zandoz]

The output rating isn't the power supply required to run the machine. You can run a 100 or higher amp welder from a 110 volt 20 amp outlet. The welder is basically a transformer, so you are converting volts to amps, high amps, low voltage from house current. The gas welders will also weld with flux core wire without gas, but it gives you the option to use plain mild steel wire or even aluminum, if you desire. I strongly suggest doing some research related to penetration and welder size requirements so you can be successful in your endeavor. I don't like flux core wire, I have no use for it at all personally. I prefer stick welding to it by far. I only use gas shielding on my mig, it's far superior, cleaner, better penetration, more control, better visibility while welding. The only functional downfall compared to flux core is if there is wind or air movement, it can blow the shielding gas away, but I weld inside. It's much better to have more power than required to be sure you can get penetration. It's better to weld hot than cold, cold welds fail. I'm not sure how much a 80 amp welder will penetrate, probably ok for sheet metal and mild tube steel, but for heavier plate, channel, and angle, you likely need more. I'm just sharing my experience for your benefit. A low priced machine is fine for what it is designed for, but if you have to buy a bigger one to accomplish your goals, what did you save? I hope it works out well for you.

The 90 amp unit I saw is rated for up to 3/16". I'd prefer to go with a more capable unit, but all the ones I've seen are 240V. Our service panel is maxed out now, so in addition to having to run an outside 240v line, the entire service panel would have to be changed out...more than I want to get into just to do some tack welds.

 

[fluidfloyd]

Before doing a doubler and tapping, I'd probably just go with what I originally had planned...welded in crush prevention tubes and bolts running clear through the rails.




I like through bolts even better then blind threads for sure!

 

[fluidfloyd]

Agree with everything you said!
Thanks for saving me all that typin' & splainin'!

If I had known you were thinking about responding I would have just sat on my backside and drank a beer. As it turned out I had to use spell checker and correct most everything I did get typed! Then you could have wrestled with it. Thanks for the thoughts. Take care.

George

 

[fletcherson]

The 90 amp unit I saw is rated for up to 3/16". I'd prefer to go with a more capable unit, but all the ones I've seen are 240V. Our service panel is maxed out now, so in addition to having to run an outside 240v line, the entire service panel would have to be changed out...more than I want to get into just to do some tack welds.

It should work for that. That rating is based on best scenario, perfect conditions, so just keep that in mind. Have you looked at east woods stuff? They are China made and there are comperable ones on the Internet. I almost opted for one of their plasma cutters but found a nice used airco. A lot of guys make an adapter cord and use the dryer outlet for welding, etc... Just a thought. Let us know how it works out!

 

[Zandoz]

It should work for that. That rating is based on best scenario, perfect conditions, so just keep that in mind. Have you looked at east woods stuff? They are China made and there are comperable ones on the Internet. I almost opted for one of their plasma cutters but found a nice used airco. A lot of guys make an adapter cord and use the dryer outlet for welding, etc... Just a thought. Let us know how it works out!

I'd not thought about Eastwood...I'll do some checking. I pretty much will have to work outside...my workshop is a 15x15 shed shared with the lawn & garden equipment, and only has one outlet. If I do this I would have to make an adapter cord to plug into the hot tub quick disconnect.

 

[2old2fast]

ask around..I have 4 welders , 2 wirefeed & 2 stickwelders.. bought all used...might have $200 in all 4... all were lightly used & work perfectly... stay away from the gasless migs...tons of spatter & you can't see sh ***
dave

 

[meangreen]

There are several makes of MIG welders that operate on 110 household voltage and have a 20% to 30% duty cycle. (Duty cycle is the percentage of an hour that you can run the welder at its highest amperage [example: 20% of 60 min is 12 minutes at full power]. We rarely run a welder "wide open" for extended periods. We mostly do welds a few inches or less at a time with breaks in between.) If there is no welding supply store near you, check with your local Lowe's or Home Depot. They stock Lincoln welders and all the little parts to keep them running. As Fletcherson said, get one that can be used with shielding gas. You can still use flux-core wire and switch over when you want. You will spend around $400+, but if you are having to pay someone every time you need something welded you will save the purchase price back very quickly. I have used one of the small Harbor Freight 90 amp flux core welders and it did a good job, but it has such a low duty cycle that it's only good for short welds on lightweight material. Also, you need more than 90 amp capability if you're going to weld anything over 1/8" thick. I have a Firepower FP135 welder that I paid $588 for about 14 years ago. It has 135 amp output and a 30% duty cycle (the higher the duty cycle, the more $$ it costs). I bought it online from Welding Direct; I looked and they don't carry that brand any more. I don't know if it's still available. Just do your research before you buy.

 

[fletcherson]

I'd not thought about Eastwood...I'll do some checking. I pretty much will have to work outside...my workshop is a 15x15 shed shared with the lawn & garden equipment, and only has one outlet. If I do this I would have to make an adapter cord to plug into the hot tub quick disconnect.

I at one time had a 10/10 shed and a car port. I actually off framed a nova and painted it with good results. Of course, I was much younger and energetic then. The point is, you can do it. For the record, I did keep things tidy for my neibors and I had to re coat the asphalt to cover my sins, lol.

 

[Zandoz]

I at one time had a 10/10 shed and a car port. I actually off framed a nova and painted it with good results. Of course, I was much younger and energetic then. The point is, you can do it. For the record, I did keep things tidy for my neibors and I had to re coat the asphalt to cover my sins, lol.

This summer, I hope to do a small car port and tool shed at the end of the drive way. As is, the shed I have to work with is at the opposite side of the property, with no wheelchair friendly route between it and the driveway. I've already stocked up on concrete degreaser...LOL

 

[Hackerbilt]

Some of the bigger 110v Welders are surprising in just how much power they actually have!
It's really important to have a good power supply to any of them though and I personally wouldn't consider anything less than 12/2 hard wiring or a quality welder rated extension cord, unless I was really really close to the main breaker panel.

My buddy had a shop where, by layout, the welding was done very close to the breaker panel. But of course at times it was necessary to move the welder to the other end of the shop rather than spend a day rearranging the entire shop.
It was like using a different welder!
Much harder to get the beads you liked and he basicly only did sheet metal on that side of the shop (and only if he had to!) as he didn't trust welding anything thicker.

Back at the breaker panel it was common (with proper joint preparation etc of course) to weld 1/8" tubing etc with great penetration and no worries.
40' away on the other side?
Forget it!!!

 

[fletcherson]

Some of the bigger 110v Welders are surprising in just how much power they actually have!
It's really important to have a good power supply to any of them though and I personally wouldn't consider anything less than 12/2 hard wiring or a quality welder rated extension cord, unless I was really really close to the main breaker panel.

My buddy had a shop where, by layout, the welding was done very close to the breaker panel. But of course at times it was necessary to move the welder to the other end of the shop rather than spend a day rearranging the entire shop.
It was like using a different welder!
Much harder to get the beads you liked and he basicly only did sheet metal on that side of the shop (and only if he had to!) as he didn't trust welding anything thicker.

Back at the breaker panel it was common (with proper joint preparation etc of course) to weld 1/8" tubing etc with great penetration and no worries.
40' away on the other side?
Forget it!!!

I have a cord from a mobile home that was rated for 100 amp, it's 6/3 and that is what my extension cord is and it works good, but is big and heavy. I have seen them made from Romex cable, but they need to be sized proper. There is a formula to figure wire size based on length, amps, and material. the closer to the panel, the smaller the wire needs to be and visa versa.

 

[fletcherson]

This summer, I hope to do a small car port and tool shed at the end of the drive way. As is, the shed I have to work with is at the opposite side of the property, with no wheelchair friendly route between it and the driveway. I've already stocked up on concrete degreaser...LOL

My shed was basically a big walk in tool box. It's amazing how much stuff you can get in them if you take the time to organize. I rebuilt my nova there and a 1954 sun liner firefly speed boat. They both turned out well. I got lots of compliments. I had to stay busy because I didn't have the luxury of letting stuff sit, but it worked out. I wish I had half of the energy I once did.

 

[Zandoz]

My shed was basically a big walk in tool box. It's amazing how much stuff you can get in them if you take the time to organize. I rebuilt my nova there and a 1954 sun liner firefly speed boat. They both turned out well. I got lots of compliments. I had to stay busy because I didn't have the luxury of letting stuff sit, but it worked out. I wish I had half of the energy I once did.

I just want to enclose a 32" deep area across about half the width of the back of the carport. The other half of the width I want to make a work bench with lockable weather tight storage under. That leaves enough to get the car under the canopy, and have space to work out of the sun.

I hear ya on the energy issue. This past year has been hard on the energy levels...now I'm about half what I had a year ago this time.

 

[meangreen]

Zandoz - Do I understand correctly that you are wheelchair bound? If so, I admire your perseverance. This hobby presents a bunch of challenges as it is; if you are stuck in a wheelchair, that complicates things about 400%. You have my utmost respect.

I had a slab poured and a steel carport put up 4 years ago and then enclosed it to make my shop. It cost me less than half what it would have to have a garage built.

 

[Zandoz]

Zandoz - Do I understand correctly that you are wheelchair bound? If so, I admire your perseverance. This hobby presents a bunch of challenges as it is; if you are stuck in a wheelchair, that complicates things about 400%. You have my utmost respect.

I had a slab poured and a steel carport put up 4 years ago and then enclosed it to make my shop. It cost me less than half what it would have to have a garage built.

I'm not completely wheelchair bound yet...though I will be probably sooner than later. I have degenerative joint disease and a pinched spinal cord from a bone spur in my neck...combined with other issues. At this point I can walk about 50 feet at a time, but it's risky because I have almost zero sense of balance.

This project has been my mental therapy. I went into it knowing that there is a high chance I'll not be around or not be physically capable of finishing it...but it's something I've wanted to do since I was a kid marveling at my uncle building this from the ground up...



What started it all was looking for an old Studebaker or Packard engine to rebuild as a "shed project". I stumbled across a running GM 60V6 and 700R4 from a daily driver Camaro being converted to V8 power. The price was less than scrap, so I couldn't refuse, even though I had no idea what to do with them. While the delivery guy was hoisting them off the truck, we both hit on the idea of a T Bucket. Since then figuring out ways for me to do things from a wheelchair has taken up as much of the process as the actual design of the car...which is fine...it keeps me occupied.

 

[fletcherson]

I'm not completely wheelchair bound yet...though I will be probably sooner than later. I have degenerative joint disease and a pinched spinal cord from a bone spur in my neck...combined with other issues. At this point I can walk about 50 feet at a time, but it's risky because I have almost zero sense of balance.

This project has been my mental therapy. I went into it knowing that there is a high chance I'll not be around or not be physically capable of finishing it...but it's something I've wanted to do since I was a kid marveling at my uncle building this from the ground up...

View attachment 10799

What started it all was looking for an old Studebaker or Packard engine to rebuild as a "shed project". I stumbled across a running GM 60V6 and 700R4 from a daily driver Camaro being converted to V8 power. The price was less than scrap, so I couldn't refuse, even though I had no idea what to do with them. While the delivery guy was hoisting them off the truck, we both hit on the idea of a T Bucket. Since then figuring out ways for me to do things from a wheelchair has taken up as much of the process as the actual design of the car...which is fine...it keeps me occupied.

Those steel car ports are nice. I bought a used one and moved it a few years back and it makes a nice shelter. You could put a door on it and have a garage. I plan to on mine. You can't argue with the price or ease of erection. I put mine on table leg footers and enclosed three sides completely. It has over 8'6" head room and is 20' x 24' and I have less than a grand in it including the footers and gravel. I think they are sold by a company named Carolina car ports.

 

[meangreen]

Zandoz - Are you building from scratch or using a pre-fab'd kit to start with? If time is a factor because of your condition, I suspect a kit would be prudent. There's lots of knowledge and experience on this site. Maybe we can help you move this project along so you'll get to drive it while you're still able.

Fletcherson - My carport came from Carolina Carports. It's called a "Triple Wide". I had the slab poured to their dimensions and let them know when it was done. A few days later 3 guys rolled up in my front yard in a dually pickup pulling a tandem trailer. Two and a half hours later the 20' x 28' carport was done and I was writing the check for the balance owed. The boss apologized for them taking so long! He said they were a little tired because they had already done two others that day... Here are pics that show the bare carport and the finished garage.

 

[fletcherson]

Zandoz - Are you building from scratch or using a pre-fab'd kit to start with? If time is a factor because of your condition, I suspect a kit would be prudent. There's lots of knowledge and experience on this site. Maybe we can help you move this project along so you'll get to drive it while you're still able.

Fletcherson - My carport came from Carolina Carports. It's called a "Triple Wide". I had the slab poured to their dimensions and let them know when it was done. A few days later 3 guys rolled up in my front yard in a dually pickup pulling a tandem trailer. Two and a half hours later the 20' x 28' carport was done and I was writing the check for the balance owed. The boss apologized for them taking so long! He said they were a little tired because they had already done two others that day... Here are pics that show the bare carport and the finished garage.

View attachment 10800 View attachment 10801

Mean green, My son and I tore one down and loaded it in about 2 1/2 hours, but it took the better part of a day for me to erect it alone. They go together fast. I just wanted it to park in so gravel is all it got for a floor. Yours turned out nice!
Zandoz, I have stated before that it is admirable to attempt such a feat with your limitations. I have been there! I was paralyzed due to a 40' fall to concrete in 1997. I used to wheel my self out to my shop and spend the days just looking at my tools and cars and wishing I could do what I liked. I had both of my wrists reconstructed as well, so I was totally screwed. Thank God I recovered. Sometimes those type goals are what keep us going. Keep us posted on your progress!

 

[Zandoz]

Those steel car ports are nice. I bought a used one and moved it a few years back and it makes a nice shelter. You could put a door on it and have a garage. I plan to on mine. You can't argue with the price or ease of erection. I put mine on table leg footers and enclosed three sides completely. It has over 8'6" head room and is 20' x 24' and I have less than a grand in it including the footers and gravel. I think they are sold by a company named Carolina car ports.

Zandoz - Are you building from scratch or using a pre-fab'd kit to start with? If time is a factor because of your condition, I suspect a kit would be prudent. There's lots of knowledge and experience on this site. Maybe we can help you move this project along so you'll get to drive it while you're still able.


Fletcherson - My carport came from Carolina Carports. It's called a "Triple Wide". I had the slab poured to their dimensions and let them know when it was done. A few days later 3 guys rolled up in my front yard in a dually pickup pulling a tandem trailer. Two and a half hours later the 20' x 28' carport was done and I was writing the check for the balance owed. The boss apologized for them taking so long! He said they were a little tired because they had already done two others that day... Here are pics that show the bare carport and the finished garage.

Mean green, My son and I tore one down and loaded it in about 2 1/2 hours, but it took the better part of a day for me to erect it alone. They go together fast. I just wanted it to park in so gravel is all it got for a floor. Yours turned out nice!
Zandoz, I have stated before that it is admirable to attempt such a feat with your limitations. I have been there! I was paralyzed due to a 40' fall to concrete in 1997. I used to wheel my self out to my shop and spend the days just looking at my tools and cars and wishing I could do what I liked. I had both of my wrists reconstructed as well, so I was totally screwed. Thank God I recovered. Sometimes those type goals are what keep us going. Keep us posted on your progress!

Fletcherson, I'm glad to hear you recovered from your fall. I have a bit of a clue what you went through...for several months before they relieved the pressure on my spinal cord, I was gradually increasingly paralyzed. By the time they did the surgery, all I could do was move my head about a quarter turn, and use my right hand. It took close to a year, with a lot of therapy, to get back to some degree of functional ability.

Unfortunately I don't have room for a full size carport. We have a concrete parking pad about the width of a 2 car garage and about a car and a half long. to maintain parking space, about the biggest I can do is 16'x16'...and close to half of that will be off the existing pad. I've not really started looking at what is available here, but there are at least 3 or 4 Shed/Garage/Carport dealers within a couple miles of here...and I've seen a couple on ebay that I really like.

MeanGreen, no I'm not using a pre-fab kit...as far as I know there is no kit out there that comes close to what I want/need. Just about every thing about this thing will be weird...LOL. Back when I was a kid, going through my uncle's hot rod magazines, the car that clicked for me was...

So I'm going for a short wheelbase "bobtail" look. The body I have is stretched 8" and widened 3" over normal. My whole drivetrain, rear suspension, and steering are unconventional. Then to top it all off, as much as possible I'm trying to configure the whole package to be as friendly to my limitations as possible.

So far this site has been the factor that has made this whole project possible. I just hope that I'm not wearing out my welcome with all my questions. Thanks folks!