My First T-Bucket Build

[choppedtop]

I have to go along with Keeper on his last paragraph. There is going to be a lot of stress applied close to the pedal. I doubt if it would ever break, but it will surely bend. You don't want to go back later and repair it, once you are on the road.
Lee

 

[2old2fast]

While I can't tell exactly what your pedal ratio is I'd guess it's not enough , manual brakes , you want 6:1 to 7:1 otherwise it'll require a lot of effort to get "whoa'd up" , & I third what Keeper said, you really need a redesign on the pedal mount..
dave

 

[Mike J]

I agree, that pedal mount will surely bend. Be safe not sorry!

 

[cmcdanl]

Any ideas on a better pivot design?

 

[bobs66440]

You can maybe move it down and go through the frame like my Spirit car. That would give you a straighter push on the MC with the pushrod too. That looks to be a bit too much angle IMO. You may have to lengthen the pedal though...


You can see it on the opposite side of the trans in this photo...

 

[baddawgcustoms]

I'm just getting to that stage myself, but I'm planning on putting the pedal on the left side of the frame, and running a shaft through the frame through a piece of DOM with a bushing in it. Basicly going to cut a spring perch off and weld it into the frame so I can have a replaceable nylon bushing for the shaft to turn in. I want to move the pedal to the left to give me more room for the gas pedal.
Sort of like this only my master will be much closer.

 

[cmcdanl]

My problem is that I was planning on having the pivot lower and beside the frame, but my crossmember is in the way of where the rod would go. I'll take a picture of that when I get home. I make have to just make a different crossmember.

 

[EX JUNK]

I'm sorry that I don't have some REALLY good pictures of my master cylinder mount but perhaps these few may give you some ideas.









Jim

 

[choppedtop]

Does the whole round part between the mount and pedal move? Even if it does you could make a horseshoe type bracket to go over it and weld the bracket to the frame as close to the pedal as possible to the frame.
Lee

 

[cmcdanl]

Does the whole round part between the mount and pedal move? Even if it does you could make a horseshoe type bracket to go over it and weld the bracket to the frame as close to the pedal as possible to the frame.
Lee

Yeah I was thinking about something like that. I might end up going that route. And yes that part moves. It's welded to the pedal and will have a zerk fitting on it so you can put grease in it.

 

[cmcdanl]

I'm back from a long break. I have done some work on the car. Been a bit busy getting married and stuff. Anyways, time for a very late update. I since have scrapped my brake assembly and trans crossmember. I created a new crossmember out of 2x2 square tubing and just welded it in. I didn't happen to take pictures of it, but I will post some soon. Going with a different crossmember design gave me a little more room for a brake assembly... Not much room but enough to make it work. I bought an assembly from RPM. When I recieved it, it ended up being too big of course and I had to adjust it. So I had to take it apart basically and shorten it. I hated doing that since it came assembled and welded... but it worked out ok and now it fits. I have a picture of the assembly out of the car. I have been really slacking with the pictures. Then I borrowed an idea from someone on this site (can't remember who) for a seat mount. I have two boat seats that I bought brand new very cheap and they should hold up to the elements very well. I built the frame for the seats with a tilt to it so you sit back comfortably in the seats. Again, no pictures of the mount. I know, I know... I at least have a picture of the seats mounted in the car. I will take pictures of everything when I disassemble later. This past weekend I was able to make some front shock mounts. I met a guy at my gym that happens to have a plasma cnc machine in his garage. So I quickly drew up some parts in AutoCAD and got him to cut them out for me. They came out good, I just needed to touch up a few parts and drill the holes clean. Definitely beats cutting everything out with a torch and grinding them down! Glad I have that connection now. So because of that I was able to finish the front shock mounts and although they aren't very traditional or everybody's taste, I happen to think they look awesome. Hopefully they work as good as I think they look. I got the shocks at a swap meet for $15. Remember this is a budget build. I can't afford $250 shocks. Anyways, I'm sure it's better than no shocks.

 

[choppedtop]

Nice work. You don't need those high dollar shocks on the front, so your doing fine.
Lee

 

[one finger john]

Just a thought. The seats seem to support the lower portion of the back but might leave a little to be desired in the upper back/shoulder area. Depends how far down you sit in the seat. Perhaps a horizontal bolster running above the seats to pad things out.

John

 

[cmcdanl]

John, thanks for the input. I am planning on making some kind of pad above them that runs the width of both seats.

 

[cmcdanl]

I got my driveshaft made yesterday. Here is a picture of that and also some pictures of the transmission crossmember I made and the brake assembly I got from RPM.

 

[benT]

Just an observation, but it seems like you have over 2" or more yoke sticking out of the trans tails shaft. I always thought you wanted an inch max at ride height. How much of the spline is actually in the trans?

 

[choppedtop]

I had the same problem when I had to move my rear end back an inch. I ordered a longer yoke to solve the problem. No problems after 2 years have pasted.
Lee

 

[cmcdanl]

It's about an inch and a half exposed. I want to say the shaft is about 2/3 of the way in if not more. The shaft is long. I'll take it off this weekend and take a picture. I didn't know until after I got the driveshaft cut and made that inside the shaft the spline is buggered up towards the bottom about an inch up. So if I try to push it all the way in then it stops about an inch short. I was unaware of that and I was told to slide the shaft all the way in and then back it out an inch and measure from there. So that's what I did. I took it to get cut and the guy thought it was weird that it didn't slide in all the way. Anyways he thought my measurement was a little short so he added a quarter of an inch to it and probably a good thing he did. When I came to pick it up he said to take a look down inside the shaft and you'll see why it wouldn't go in all the way. Sure enough the spline was boogered up a little down at the bottom. I didn't know the shaft was supposed to go all the way in. My mistake I guess. But I believe enough of the shaft is in there. I'll take some pics this weekend and see what you guys think. The rear supsension is very stiff so I don't think there will be much travel.

 

[2old2fast]

So your "guy" , knowing hat the yoke was messed up , went ahead & made the shaft based on the messed up yoke ??think I,d want to have a talk with that guy . dave

 

[one finger john]

The name of the guy is on the drive shaft. Give him a call.