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My first T build.

Putting you build on hold is the right thing to do. Taking care of you wife is what is important and I'm sure that she'll appreciate it.

Jim
 
Thank you for the well wishes. I'm sure she will appreciate it. She is enthusiastic about the car too so she is bummed too. She is a good woman. I think I will keep her.
 
HA! You better hope she keeps you!:whistling:

Seriously, tell her to get well soon. The good news is that thyroid removal is a routine and fairly safe procedure. Patients usually recover very quickly with little or no discomfort.:thumbsup: Afterwards she'll be taking a little pill every morning before breakfast; either Synthroid or Levothyroxin (generic Synthroid).
 
I wish you and her well. Don't give up on the Bucket,just wait till you are ready and able.
 
Laurie and I will keep you and your wife in our thoughts and prayers.

Mark
 
I put quite a few miles on my hot rod before I got it running also. Helps keep the ambition up that way. I got tired of messing with the DMV trying to get a title for my roadster. Finally went to a judge with my bill of sale, and he issued a court order for the state to issue a title. Cost a bit more to do this, but had a title in 3 days, after waiting 6 months for the DMV to say no over and over.
Lee
Small blocks use to be dirt cheap to rebuild, not any more. I use to have about 300.00 in parts. I just spent 900.00 on one and reused the cam, lifters (roller) and 7 pistons. If I would have done the math prior to starting, I would have bought a crate engine instead. I would recommend a crate engine.
 
Glad to hear that she's doing well.

Jim
 
Could you or meangreen tell me if there is any rule of thumb on the angle of the lift bars. Coming from the four link racing setup background we kept the bottom bar level with the ground at baseline setup. I see that yours angle upwards 10 degrees or more. Thanks
 
RatchetRob - The mounting points of the lift bars are more critical than the bar's shape. Shape is usually dictated by chassis clearance or desired appearance. Regardless of the shape of the bars, the chassis only "sees" the mounting points. The effect is as if the bars are straight from the center of the rear axle to the front mounting (pivot) point. Go back to page 3 and look at the side view of Smokeyco's setup. There you can see that, although the bars seem to be inclined upwards, the front pivot point is actually slightly lower than the rear axle. That's the important thing. The higher you put the front pivot point, the more lift the bars provide under acceleration. A lot of lift may be desirable for straight-line acceleration, but can cause unpredictable handling problems when accelerating off a corner (especially in light weight short wheelbase cars).:confused: I recommend that you keep the front pivot point 1 to 3 inches below the rear axle centerline.

One last thing - The length of the bars also affects lift and ride quality. Short bars provide more lift, but make for a choppy ride. Longer bars don't lift the car as radically or as quick under acceleration, but generally make for a smoother more comfortable ride. I usually make the bars as long as I can make fit the chassis. The longer the bars, the less torsional stress they put on the axle housing. The shortest pair I ever used were 30" from axle to pivot, but I prefer longer (36" to 42").:cool:
 

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