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This arrived today : ATTACK cured resin dissolver..jpg I have to remove some cured polyester resin from the hinge bolts ( it's imbedded in the threads ). I need to remove the driver's door so i can glass in the inside area of the door well. The hinge bolts will interfere with my glassing attempts. I will temporarily remove the bolts & re-install them after my glassing is finished.
 
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DSCN1263.JPG DSCN1264.JPG DSCN1266.JPG More progress on the track t nose. I have 2 future forms for the spider's jaws. The wood is pine which is 3/4" thick. I'll cut out 4 pieces ( 2 each for each side ). I'll then have 2 forms that are 1 1/2" thick. I want the jaws to be prominent. I'll glue the pieces together with 30 minute epoxy glue. Then , i'll glue one piece of 1 1/4 " x 1 1/4" ( square pine ) on the bottom of my 2 forms. This will give me a raised platform under the 2 forms. I've learned i must do this through trial & error with forms i've made in the past.
 
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I can't remove the driver's door because there is cured resin on the hinge bolts ( in the hinge bolt's threads ). I hope this answers your question choppedtop.
 
Today i brushed ATTACK on the threads of the hinge bolts. The ATTACK evaporates too fast. The instructions say to pour the ATTACK into a jar , dump your resin damaged parts in , place a lid on top , tighten the lid to prevent leakage of the ATTACK. Leave the jar over night. Brushing it on the affected area definitely DOES'NT WORK . Tomorrow i'll try an electric drill with a wire brush. If the wire brush doesn't work , i'll cut off the threaded ends of the hinge bolts ( 5 of them ). THE DOOR HAS TO BE REMOVED !
 
DSCN1262.JPG The wire brush with an electric drill worked. I removed the driver's door & managed to glass in 2 layers of 1 1/2 oz. fiberglass mat. Now i'm working on re-installing the lower door well radius. The lower door radius is located below the striker plate. It's part of the rocker panel.
 
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I worked on installing the lower door well radius. Yesterday 7-8-21 , I duct taped the backside of the lower radius & filled the small trench with 30 minute epoxy glue. Today 7-9-21 , i filled the small trench with kitty hair ( because a lot of the 30 minute epoxy glue seeped past the duct tape barrier ). All i have left to do is glass in the interior side ( backside ) of the lower door radius. Before i attempted to re-install the lower door well radius , i sanded the radius piece to remove extra fiberglass ( from a former patching job ). I wanted to start with a clean slate. Next Monday 7-12-21 , i plan to cut the door in half ( vertically ) & begin fitting the door to the door well. Wish me luck everybody.
 
This lined area is basically where i made my cut : This allowed for the passenger's door e130e3621f055a3dc26cb1b45eec94e3.jpg KIT to fit into the body... I used the cut out driver's side body . I am replacing the passenger's door skin with the t bucket's driver's side body section. This section has the contours that are needed. I've been putting this nightmare back together . So far ; i've been working on the door skin transplant for about a week. Everything seems to be going well.
 
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I've been checking it everyday since Gavin Nuisance promised a $ 600.00 stimulus check. I read the requirements & i definitely qualify. However ; my plastic surgery practice is doing poorly. Maybe the moniker on my shingle , " DR. IMA QUACK " & my nurse miss " IZZA BUTCHER " might cause a low turnout of patients ?? LOL !!
 
I clear coated the 1st shotgun for JRM , it's ready to go to it's new owner. The 2nd shotgun for JWM needs to be sanded & shaped , then painted & clear coated. Tomorrow i go back to installing the driver's door. It's progressing well. During the work week i work on my project T ( " KRAZY THANGS ") & i do miscellaneous things on the weekends . This is because Leroy's shop is open Monday thru Friday & closed on Saturday & Sunday.
 
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