Garage Merch                Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

My ProjecTee

When I made the nose on my aviator I made the bulkheads and put 1/4” ply on top and sides. On the curved parts I used screen door trim then covered with glass. Now I would try the 1/8” bendable plywood.
 
Thanks for your like's guys. Yesterday i clamped the track t nose to my chassis. I can't get any photos until Monday 11-29-21. Leroy looked at it . He said it was great addition & it made a difference in the car's looks . I'll have to modify my hood to fit the firewall & the radiator shell ( i think i can do it ). I'll build a wooden framework & basically cut the existing fiberglass hood into pieces. I've watched several youtube videos about body construction & i'm also inspired by , "CHOPPINCZECH ". He's my hero !! He gives me courage to venture into the unknown.
Yeah, Choppinczech is everyone’s fiberglass hero, don’t set your goals too high, lol... sarcasm. You can do it. Bracing it so it won’t warp will be important. Trial and error is a good teacher too. I share Choppinczechs drive for perfection but lack his tenacity and patience. He is definitely head and shoulders above most in the fiberglass game. Fun and inspirational to watch.
 
I am aware of the importance of bracing , thanks for the advice anyway. Everyone's comments & suggestions are important to me. I plan to attach an X shaped brace along the bottom of the framework. It will connect opposing corners together. Many years i attempted to build a tilt front end for a 31 bantam Austin America ; it was a total disaster. I have more tools & knowledge now. Soooooooo , here we go again. LOL !!
 
I am aware of the importance of bracing , thanks for the advice anyway. Everyone's comments & suggestions are important to me. I plan to attach an X shaped brace along the bottom of the framework. It will connect opposing corners together. Many years i attempted to build a tilt front end for a 31 bantam Austin America ; it was a total disaster. I have more tools & knowledge now. Soooooooo , here we go again. LOL !!
I had my floor panel very well braced, so I thought, but it managed to draw up in the curing process, wasting a good chunk of material and time. Lesson learned, I guess, I’m still not sure exactly how it managed to do it. The second one turned out fine braced basically the same way with a little redundancy... I tap conned the bracing to the shop floor, lol!
 
I am aware of the importance of bracing , thanks for the advice anyway. Everyone's comments & suggestions are important to me.

Sometimes an external buck works well for a large part that needs widening or lengthening. The cut pieces can be attached to the buck. And the whole thing flipped over on a bench. Which leaves the underside nice and open for the new filler glass. I've stretched layers of duct tape across the voids to act as a backer.
hood buck.jpg
 
DSCN1359.JPG DSCN1360.JPG I'm thinking about making flat panels from 2 layers of 1 1/2oz fiberglass , then attaching them to the wooden frame. I just purchased a piece of hdpe from Tap Plastics. The hdpe ( high density polyethylene ) is 24"s wide & 30"s long x 1/4" thick. This stuff will NOT stick to polyester & epoxy resin. I've already made a piece of fiberglass ( 12"s x 15"s ) the set up fiberglass panel lifted right off the hdpe.
 
Last edited:
I plan to use a roller when i lay up my next panels ( future hood panels ). I'll probably need a longer piece of hdpe for the hood area near the firewall.
 
I would suggest disassembling them for cleanup, I found aluminum chips everywhere
on mine. Then check the valve seats for a good seal with alcohol. Poor alcohol with
food coloring in the port, the combustion chamber should be dry for 30 - 60 seconds.
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top