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BTW, you may have noticed I used 27.1 inches for the diameter, that's because when I looked up the specs
for the BRIDGESTONE POTENZA 255/45R 18 this is what I found.

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I found that measurement also from America's Tires website. My original measurement of 25.50 came from measuring the tire with my tape measure. The tire was NOT mounted & inflated.
 
I'm still waiting for my body insert & seat insert from Spirit Cars and my 14" high windshield from Ron Pope Motorsports.
 
I found that measurement also from America's Tires website.
OK, I thought maybe you transposed the last two numbers. I got my numbers from the The TireRack. I can redo the chart if you like, it's not hard ???
 
Took some photos today :DSCN1365.JPG DSCN1367.JPG DSCN1369.JPG DSCN1372.JPG I'm making attachments places for the track t nose. I will use RivNuts to fasten the fiberglass sections to the frame & the front ( round ) tube.
 
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I use a lot of rivnuts at work for hogged out holes in thin steel and aluminum. These lever type tools really help with 5/16" and larger.
5TUW5_AS02.jpeg
 
I went to a large warehouse ( supplies local farmers ) that's called J. Milanos. All i found was steel & aluminum RivNuts. I went home with some aluminum ones 1/4" x 20's. The steel RivNuts will probably rust , at least the aluminum RivNuts won't .
 
I went to a large warehouse ( supplies local farmers ) that's called J. Milanos. All i found was steel & aluminum RivNuts. I went home with some aluminum ones 1/4" x 20's. The steel RivNuts will probably rust , at least the aluminum RivNuts won't .
Use anti seize to prevent steel bolts from reacting... perhaps stainless bolts.
 
Mc Master offers both round and hex shaped ones. The hex won’t allow the rivnut to spin. The hard part is punching the hex hole without the proper equipment.
 
Biggest problems I had was over sized holes. Try using the step drills to get the hole round or drill undersized and ream to size. They are a pain in the butt when they spin.

Yes the hole size is crucial. Sometimes even letter size drill bits are required.
 
What if i use a caliper to determine the width of the RivNut ? I've installed RivNuts before on earlier projects. Didn't have any problems. I start with a small drill bit then i graduate up to the right size. I think that was my strategy a few years ago. Really don't remember.
 
That would work. You might use lock tight too. I used 4 half inch nuts to hold a rear sway bar on a race car so they can hold some weight. Of course the frame was about .200” thick.
 
What if i use a caliper to determine the width of the RivNut ?

That would work fine. These drill bit gauges help too. The tighter initial fit the better.

drill.jpg

This type of lock washer can keep them from spinning in fiberglass.

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Yours might be like these that need a 25/64" hole.
McMaster-Carr
 
I'm going to drill through the fiberglass & into the frame The fiberglass will be anchored to the frame ( 3/16" thick frame ). A good tip on the lock washer Choppinczech.
 

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