My ProjecTee
- Thread starter DonnyRay
- Start date
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Whether we learn anything or not, watching vids of such activities is good to get our minds in tune. Sometimes pick up a new tip. I personally rarely do such things anymore. Lost my incentive along the path. I’ve done it many times in the past. Funny how all of the skills we learn lose their importance as time goes by.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I can talk intelligently about your question specifically. But I do wonder about a
few other things that maybe you have not considered ???
- Are you sure it's a 4L60e or 4L60 / 700-R4. The first one is electronic and the 2nd one is not, but they are the same essentially otherwise.
- You will have to change the trans mount and driveshaft for the 4L60E/700-4R. The driveshaft will have to be about 3 inches shorter.
- Have you considered the 200-4R, it's the same length as the TH350. You can use your old driveshaft, but the trans mount will have to be relocated
- The 200-4R has better gear ratios than the 700-R4. The jump from 1st to 2nd has a much larger RPM drop on the 700-R4. See graphic below.
- The 200-4R has a better OD ratio of .67 compared to .7 for the 700-R4.
- The 700-R4 was produced in higher quantities and is easier to find parts for.
But there are shops that carry parts for the 200-4R.
Precision Automatic Transmissions & Internal Components | GM | Ford | Street | Race | Custom | Retrofit
TurboBuickPerformance.com
Disclaimer: I have the 200-4R and love it.
I bought all the 200-4R transmission and parts that a transmission shop had when they went out of
business. Then I cleaned it, dipped it ATF, bagged, and labeled it according to the ATSG manuals. I
even have a couple of New Old Stock items.
OK, I will shut-up now unless you ask some questions.
.
few other things that maybe you have not considered ???
- Are you sure it's a 4L60e or 4L60 / 700-R4. The first one is electronic and the 2nd one is not, but they are the same essentially otherwise.
- You will have to change the trans mount and driveshaft for the 4L60E/700-4R. The driveshaft will have to be about 3 inches shorter.
- Have you considered the 200-4R, it's the same length as the TH350. You can use your old driveshaft, but the trans mount will have to be relocated
- The 200-4R has better gear ratios than the 700-R4. The jump from 1st to 2nd has a much larger RPM drop on the 700-R4. See graphic below.
- The 200-4R has a better OD ratio of .67 compared to .7 for the 700-R4.
- The 700-R4 was produced in higher quantities and is easier to find parts for.
But there are shops that carry parts for the 200-4R.
Precision Automatic Transmissions & Internal Components | GM | Ford | Street | Race | Custom | Retrofit
TurboBuickPerformance.com
Disclaimer: I have the 200-4R and love it.
I bought all the 200-4R transmission and parts that a transmission shop had when they went out of
business. Then I cleaned it, dipped it ATF, bagged, and labeled it according to the ATSG manuals. I
even have a couple of New Old Stock items.
OK, I will shut-up now unless you ask some questions.
.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I’m thinking your flex plate is fine but the converter selection should be discussed with a knowledgeable tech taking the entire build into consideration... cam, tire size, gear ratio, vehicle weight, etc. the light weight of these t buckets tends to throw a wrench into the converter stall function for some, so attention is merited.
Choosing a convertor has a lot to do with the intended use of the vehicle. My goal was to avoid having to stand on the brake pedal at stop lights. I have a mild 350 Chevy V-8 with a TH 350 automatic, and I chose a B&M Tork Master 2000; it does the job. Mine is a 'street only' T-bucket. If you are looking for a setup geared toward racing, you probably want to consider a higher stall convertor that gets the RPMs closer to your peak torque/hp numbers at launch. Just remember: those babies can generate a lot of heat in your transmission, a potential problem for summer cruising. Auxiliary transmission cooler would be a must.
You may also want to rethink rear end gearing when going to an overdrive trans. I have a 700R4 with 31" tires and run 4.46 rear gears. Some people run much taller gearing, say 3.20 - 3.50, but if you like to brag about horsepower you won't have any in overdrive with those high ratio's.
Last edited:
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Most any GM 4 speed shifter should work, but I'm using this B&M Unimatic shifter. It's listed as fitting the
GM 4L60E, 4L65E, but works on the 200-4R. I did cut 4 inches out of the handle, it was just too high.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-80775
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I'm partial, but I did try to point out the pros and cons of the 200-4R vs 700-R4.
For the torque converter you will want to consider what fletcherson is saying in post # 1386. One size
does not fit all.
For what I'm doing .....
I'm using the CK Performance D5 converter that came in the Turbo Buick's that he has reworked.
PN: 200R4C/12HS 2250-2600 Stall
GM 2004R 12" LOCK UP STREET STRIP CONVERTER HIGH STALL
I have 31 inch rear tires and 3.7 rear gear. The cam is a hydraulic roller as shown below and idles
between 850-900 rpm. It pulls more at stop lights than the family car, but it's not bad. Even the
wife has not complained about it when she drives. I'm only taching 1900 rpm at 70 mph.
You will want to check the fluid temp in the pan either with a gauge or IR gun if you are running
anything higher than about 2200 rpm stall. You want to see 175°F or lower.
What kind of HP are you expecting? Do you know your camshaft?
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
The engine i purchased ( 1968 327 c.i.d ) was already rebuilt by 2 relatives of the shop owner ( Leroy Hunt ). So , i don't know the cams profile. It was intended for street use in a 1967 Camaro. The engine has 194 heads ( camel backs ). It also has a performer intake manifold ( EDELBROCK ). So , i would assume the intentions of the builder was for mild street usage. The re-builders ( a father & his son ) Decided to modify a 350 c.i.d to a 383 c.i.d stroker. That's how i was able to purchase the 327 c.i.d engine. I originally bought it for $ 1,200.00. Now i've begun pouring more money into it. I'm adding a pair of NKB aluminum heads ( has 200cc intake runners 2.02 & 1.60 valves ) It was built by skip white performance.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
There are two versions, one is the 4L60 E, which requires the electronic control module to work
properly. Then there is the 4L60 (No E) also called the 700-4R that only needs 12v power (no module)
when you want to lockup the torque converter. The 200-4R is exactly the same in this respect, just
needs 12v for lockup.
What is the tire size or diameter ? Then I can calculate your rpm at highway speeds.
Similar threads
