overheating problem

[Keeper]

Baaaah crate motor!

I chased the same oil leaks you are, Mike pretty much gave me the 3rd degree as well But as you seen in my post there, I followed his directions, and the leaks went away.

One thing to consider on your oil leak. If you are seeing the oil running from the front to back at the bottom of the head, do not rule out the valve cover gasket, it will leak down the front corner then the fan will blow it all the way back along the crease of the head/block. I had that one to fix as well, I could not see it when the engine was not painted, but as soon as I painted the engine Chevy Orange (the only color for an engine) I found the track back to the valve cover.

Since your engine is black, it might make things a little harder to track.

Take your time, clean clean clean and things will work out!

 

[oino]

Hey Keeper, I was looking at your thread just now. I read it a few days ago, but it didn't dawn on me until now.
I think I know now how the oil was getting out.
The silicone never stuck to the intake. Even with the amount I put on there. Then intake squished it down and thats it.
I cleaned the intake with the acetone before install. Guess acetone isn't good for cleaning. Or it was just the intake.

When the new one gets here. I'll be sure to use thinner.
Maybe do a silicone test on it before the the install. Make sure it will stick.

 

[oino]

So edelbrock and jegs recommend a .120 thick intake gasket on there sites.
But in the instructions for the manifold I just sent back and the one I'm getting it says to use the stock gm or fel-pro vortec gasket.

 

[Mike]

Guess acetone isn't good for cleaning.

No, that is an incorrect assumption.

Acetone, real, commercial-grade acetone works very well for cleaning. However, many people realize fingernail polish remover is acetone, so they try that, instead. Fingernail polish remover has oil in it, to prevent users' hands from drying out. Which means, you are using a product with oil in it, to try to remove oil. And that does not work, if you are planning to use silicone sealer. If you used fingernail polish remover, then yes, that is part of your problem. If you purchased commercial-grade acetone from a supply house, them you used a product that should have worked, and worked well.

Making blanket installation statements, like using a .120" gasket for all intake manifold installs, is just downright silly. Without knowing what machine work has been performed on both cylinder block and heads, how can anyone 'know' what gasket should be used? Answer? They cannot. How can you 'know' what length pushrods to use in an engine, before you get everything assembled, and start checking things? How can you 'know' what main bearings to use, until you start measuring clearances? That is about like the customer who wants to buy the biggest camshaft he can, without having to fly-cut piston valve reliefs. Who knows what that number is?

It is making these kinds of assumptions that gets people in over their heads with all manner of problems.

 

[oino]

I got you.
Would the stuff at home depot be more commeral grade or like fingernail polish remover?
I'm going to rent a inspection camera when I get my new intake.
Do this thing right.

Should I stick with the stock vortec gaskets and do the manifold fitting and inspection with them? They are a hard plasic with rubber rings around each port. They fit the heads real good, lining up with each port. It says not to any sealant on them other then the rtv at the ends. They do measure 1/8 thick.
Or should I go get the 1255 gaskets?

I got the thinner, 3M 08001, a new tube of rtv silicone.

 

[Mike]

Would the stuff at home depot be more commeral grade or like fingernail polish remover?

With all due respect, how would I ever know? Isn't that a question you should ask the people at Home Depot?

I'm going to rent a inspection camera when I get my new intake.

You know, I've been doing this stuff for over 40 years and never have I ever used an inspection camera to install an intake. Not even once.

Should I stick with the stock vortec gaskets and do the manifold fitting and inspection with them? They are a hard plasic with rubber rings around each port. They fit the heads real good, lining up with each port. It says not to any sealant on them other then the rtv at the ends. They do measure 1/8 thick.

I would not use that style gasket, particularly not with a cast, aluminum intake.

Or should I go get the 1255 gaskets?

And with that question, I am cheerfully abandoning this thread, as my participation has proven to be naught but a futile exercise in frustration.

 

[oino]

With all due respect, how would I ever know? Isn't that a question you should ask the people at Home Depot?


You know, I've been doing this stuff for over 40 years and never have I ever used an inspection camera to install an intake. Not even once.


I would not use that style gasket, particularly not with a cast, aluminum intake.


And with that question, I am cheerfully abandoning this thread, as my participation has proven to be naught but a futile exercise in frustration.

I'm sorry Mike. I'm just so confused.... This thing is giving me a headache. I'm about ready to just give up my self.

SM: in a pervious post said I should use a camera to look inside the intake runner.
So I thought I would go with that to verifi that the gasket was fitting right.

I won't use the stock gasket. That fine.
But if I don't use gasket 1255. My only other options for vortec intake gaskets are the cheap ones at speedway or I could order some Edelbrock ones, But they are the same as the fel-pro 1255 at .120 thick.

 

[Keeper]

Personally I would grab a set of the felpro 1255, as they are the same thickness as the stock ones, and they are recommended by the intake manufacturer.

If you need to see what the fit is like with the gaskets, do what I did, toss a flashlight in the oil valley, set the intake on with those gaskets and see how big a gap you have at the end rails. Since you are borrowing a camera take a look at the inside and see if you see anything out of place, or sticking into the runners.

Once you see things look okay then start cleaning, I went with the lacquer thinner when I did it the 2nd time, it gives a bit more working time over acetone and seemed to clean a bit better and it did not eat my shop towel paper towels like the acetone.

Again, take your time, check things out repeatedly, then get to it.

I know how frustrating it can be chasing things like this. All part of the fun I am afraid. Most of us do not have the years and years experience some folks on here have, I know I sure as hell don't, so we will repeatedly make mistakes (often frustrating the hell out of the folks trying to help) until it sinks in.

 

[oino]

Thank you. I like the flash light idea.

 

[2old2fast]

Which intake are you getting? What does the intake manufacturer reccomend for this intake ?
dave

 

[TriodeLuvr]

I got you.
Would the stuff at home depot be more commeral grade or like fingernail polish remover?

The acetone at HD is more than pure enough. However, I seldom use acetone for this because it evaporates so fast. Mineral spirits is a better solvent for removing oil and grease. It takes much longer to dry, so it can be wiped across the surface more effectively and will soak into (and dissolve) heavier coatings of grease when needed. Don't waste money on low-odor mineral spirits. That's what HD wants you to buy - at an inflated price - so it's the only type they sell now that's labeled as mineral spirits. Instead, buy their "paint thinner," which is also pure mineral spirits, but about half the price.

 

[RPM]

I like a spray can of brake cleaner.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I like a spray can of brake cleaner.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I like my Steaks well done with A-1 Steak Sauce, baked potatoe, and a beer, so, I really enjoy it when I don't have to drive. Acetone, Mineral Spirits, Laquer Thinner, and even and especially brake cleaner will all clean well enough to seal the oil leak. If the thing is installed correctly....with good quality parts.

I really feel sorry for some of these kids now trying to fight all this stuff....when we were growing up and all, we hardly ever had bad parts, like intakes....they were all made here by folks that took pride in their work here in the US. Holleys were good carbs, Hope he gets his intake installed and gets it running....

 

[oino]

Which intake are you getting? What does the intake manufacturer reccomend for this intake ?
dave

I'm getting a edelbrock 2716. They recommend their gasket on there site. It looks the same and is the same thickness as the fel-pro 1255.

 

[oino]

Got the new manifold today. Looks a lot better. Even came with a barbed hose fitting, hose, and hose clamps for the bypass.

Test fitted the manifold and gaskets. Gaskets do line up with the head fine and if I hold them to the manifold they line up fine.
But together it's a no go. Misses the intake ports.
I marked where it's sitting on the manifold and I now know where it needs to sit.
So I'll go to speedway tomorrow with the manifold and see what I can come up with.
If I have to I'll just order the ones from edelbrock.

 

[Keeper]

Oh the joy of building a hotrod!

Keep at it, I know by now I would be frustrated as hell!

Any pics of the manifold sitting on the gaskets? Is it the top of the port thats not lining up? (Just curious)

 

[2old2fast]

Thanks for the heads up , we're pullin' for ya' !!
dave

 

[oino]

Oh the joy of building a hotrod!

Keep at it, I know by now I would be frustrated as hell!

Any pics of the manifold sitting on the gaskets? Is it the top of the port thats not lining up? (Just curious)

On the manifold side it's the bottem of the ports that don't line up.
Sorry about no pics. I always forget to take them.

 

[one finger john]

Chris, please give us the manufacturer and part numbers for your cylinder heads. Are the heads new or remanufactured?