Prepping suspension parts for paint

[Satori]

I'm going to be painting a lot of my parts myself when it all comes in. In the past I've usually just cleaned the bare metal with something like carb cleaner and it's seemed to work just fine, but I figured I should ask you guys because I'm pretty sure there's a better way.

 

[Brucer]

i usually use laquer thinner

 

[Satori]

i usually use laquer thinner

That would probably be cheaper than carb cleaner too.

 

[rooster57]

Ditto on the LT and also use etching primer on all bare metal. Then scuff primer with green scotchbrite and then use a tac-cloth. I used ultra black with a hardner and made a plastic paint booth and shot mine small parts in the garage with my touch up gun. My Radius rods and frame front axel spindles and steering stuff i had powdercoated.

 

[Satori]

Ditto on the LT and also use etching primer on all bare metal. Then scuff primer with green scotchbrite and then use a tac-cloth. I used ultra black with a hardner and made a plastic paint booth and shot mine small parts in the garage with my touch up gun. My Radius rods and frame front axel spindles and steering stuff i had powdercoated.

Of course powdercoating would be ideal, but I'm not really planning to take anything in for powdercoating. I guess I might still call for a general price once I have everything and have an idea how many pieces it'll be. It's a long drive to Tucson though. I did take a bunch of motorcycle parts there a few years ago and it was actually pretty reasonably priced. So for now, I plan to use a rattle-can for the small parts. The body will be done properly though.

 

[rooster57]

I thought about the rattle can but the paint with hardner using a touchup gun is just as easy,better paint, except for the cleanup. I payed 175.00 for the sandblast and 250.00 for the PC and that was 75% of my parts. My neighbor is using the duplicolor on his Vette frameoff and he likes it.

 

[Youngster]

i use LT to wipe the parts down and then a maroon scotch padand tack cloth on bare matel. buy all means use the self-etching primer/sealer. the '32 frame i'm redoni now was shopt with it 6 years ago and there ain't no rust at all under the primer! it sat out side for 2 years too!

if you are going to primarly show your car, then use paint, judges don't like powder coating. if you're building a driver, then powder coating will keep touch-up to a minumum.

Ron

 

[Ted Brown]

I like your idea, as that is mine also, paint it yourself with whatever, get it all together and drive it, a bunch, as you just may want to change something down the road, that way you will not hurt anything that cost a bunch.. then when you are real happy with how She drives, in the Winter, take it all apart and do it how you want to then... Give it a season at least

 

[donsrods]

I've always prepped the parts just like you would do bodywork, with etch primer, epoxy primer, then the top coat of regular auto enamel. But we just had all the parts on my Kid's 30 rpu powder coated and I don't think I'll ever paint stuff again. You just drop it off, then pick it up when done and reinstall it. By the time you weigh the cost of buying thinner, hardener, primer, paint, buckets, strainers, etc. it is probably cheaper.

Here is the frame last Sunday after we got it back from the powder coater the second time. (the first job was a disaster because we had it clear coated and the clear peeled off immediately ...........long story, but we had all 43 pieces stripped and redone)

Don

 

[dovehunter79]

I cant begin to say how nice that frame looks!!! Outstanding!!!

 

[rooster57]

Yea what Don said powdercoat is the way to go fo-sho. It looks great and is very durable.