Restoring 1970's California T-bucket with Tube Frame

[Flatsman]

I have been gone for most of November and have been out in Texas for the last week. Going home on the second of January and will finish the wiring and start it up. Really looking forward to getting back on the project in January. Happy New Year to everyone!

 

[Ttownbucket]

I have been watching and enjoying your build thread. Hope to see more soon. Happy New Year.

 

[meangreen]

Hello Flatsman. I just discovered this thread and enjoying reading about your progress. I am on the opposite side of the state (Titusville) and I understand when you say it's just too hot to work on it sometimes...

 

[Flatsman]

Ttownbucket and meangreen, glad you are enjoying the build thread. I have really had a lot of fun with this one and the T gets more attention than my 32 Roadster! I just recently put the 32 up for sale and I plan to drive the T around for a few years here on the Gulf Beaches. Good Luck with your builds and projects! Thanks for you interest.

 

[jestermetalwerx]

Nice project

 

[Flatsman]

Just a quick update. I have been slowly wiring the T-bucket and doing a lot of traveling away from home. Tonight, I left the shop at 8 pm and got a lot done today. I wired the electric fuel pump to operate off a relay and since I am not having AC/ heat on this car, I used that wire for the trigger on the relay. The pump now turns on with the key. The ignition switch is wired and will turn the motor over. Tonight, I finished the turn indicators! What a pain that was. My wiring kit was set up for a GM column so I had to pull wires and wire the turn indicators to an aftermarket system from Speedway. Yesterday, I ordered some new turn signals lights with dual filament bulbs. My wiring kit has the ability to have both turn signals and parking lights so I decided to just order the dual filament turns and be done with it. As of tonight, I have brake lights, left and right turns, head and tails lights with high beam and low beam, and parking lights on the tails only until the new front signals arrive in three days. This is the first car that I have ever wired completely from scratch and it has been a good experience for me. For the first time, I have a real good understanding of the cars electrical system and how it works.
Next, I am prewiring the instrument panel and then I will hook up all the gauges and speed O and fasten the dash in place. As soon as I have gauges, I will start it up and begin the tuning process. I will post some more pictures this next week!

 

[sstock]

Great update Fred. I was amazed at how much time one can spend fiddling with wires when making a sanitary install. When you get some time snap a couple pics for us to see the progress of the T.
BTW, like your avatar.

 

[meangreen]

I was just looking back at the first couple of pages and I found the picture of the harmonic balancers. What engine do you have? That small balancer didn't lose its outer ring... That's a balancer for a 283 or 327. The big balancer is for a 350. I'm not sure if it matters; maybe some of the engine gurus on here can tell us what happens if you use the wrong one...

 

[Flatsman]

Meangreen, you are absolutely right about the harmonic balancer. I found out about the smaller balancer afterwards. What still confuses me is that there was rubber on the outside of the original one that was on the car and I laid that one over the larger 350 one and they matched up. Anyway, because of the front motor mount, the large balancer doesn't work. I am a Ford Guy and have forgotten most of my Chevy stuff. Thanks for your comments.
Thanks Steve, I hope to have it running this next week. Company is coming all through March and April!

 

[Mike J]

Make sure you have a 350, the same block can be used for the 305, 327 &350. I have a 1968 327 and the diameter is 6 3/4". as far as sbc go, all "balancers" have a solid hub , rubber, then the outer ring. The" balancer is" meant to fine tune the balance of the engine but also the harmonics, keep the vibrations smoother. IMHO.

 

[Mike J]

302 not 307, what is your casting number on the block? If not available check the bore and stroke. Same bore all three engines just different strokes.

 

[Flatsman]

I researched the motor about a year ago and it is a 350 that originally was in a truck. It is pretty much stock but had a fresh rebuild on it when I picked the car up. I have had the intake and pan off of it and everything looked new and clean. Thanks for your input.

 

[meangreen]

Here are the factory bore & stroke combinations for all the first generation Chevy small-block engines:
262 = 3.671" x 3.10" (Gen. I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('55-'57 Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
267 = 3.500" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
283 = 3.875" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
305 = 3.736" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
400 = 4.125" x 3.75" (Gen.I, 5.565" rod)

 

[Mike J]

Google " sbc harmonic balancer sizes" there is allot of info. they say you can use the smaller balancer because of being internally balanced, but the 8" inch is preferred.

 

[Mike J]

I'm down in Ft Myers, I'd like to come up and see your T sometime?

 

[Flatsman]

You are welcome to come up any time. I just have a hobby shop but I do have a refridge with cold ones in it. My Shop address is 6709 114th Ave, Largo, Fl I don't remember the zip.

 

[Flatsman]

It's ALIVE! First start up in abut a year and a half. More later as I have to run to another event right now! I celebrated with a Corona!

 

[Flatsman]

When I powered up the Bucket, I had one gauge light not working but the bulb was just a little loose and that was quickly fixed. While the tank was empty, I adjusted the fuel gauge sending unit to read zero and then added about 4 gallons of Non-ethanol and noted that I had about 1/3 of a tank full. Next, I hit the starter and heard the fuel pump come on and watched as the fuel pressure went to about 6 lbs. Then I heard the front carb spilling some gas. Yep, stuck float, which was taken care of with a swift tap from a plastic handle of a screw driver. Yep, I had a fire extinguisher close by! Next, I cranked the car and it appeared that I had no ignition so I checked the positive wire on the coil. nadda! After chasing that wire back through the system, I found the coil fuse in my panel was loose and pushed it in and had power to the coil. Next crank, it fired and would not keep running but I adjusted the timing and it purred like a kitten. 50 lbs of oil pressure and a temp of 160, voltage on the volt meter. Today, I hope to get back out there and set the floats on the two carbs and set the idle mixtures. I will take my timing light and dwell meter and set the timing and points. It sounds real good like it is and was real easy to bring back to life again. Next I will try to get a short video of it running. Right now, I am installing the windshield and getting it ready to put the top back on it. That is the latest on my long project.

 

[Flatsman]

Just now drove it home and will keep it in the Garage tonight and then back to the shop tomorrow. Everything works as it should. I will take some pictures in the driveway this evening after the sun goes down a bit.

 

[Mike J]

looking forward to those pics. We were up in your neck of the woods on our way to the airport on the 29th. but didn't have time to stop. Might be coming up that way at the end of this month.