Restoring 1970's California T-bucket with Tube Frame

[Flatsman]

Otay, the engine is back out again. I was very close to being able to pull it and decided that since I had a rear main seal leak, that I would go ahead and pull it. Here is the #7 wiped exhaust valve lobe:

and this is the way the car sits as of tonight! It was a Corona kind of day!

 

[Mike J]

Otay, the engine is back out again. I was very close to being able to pull it and decided that since I had a rear main seal leak, that I would go ahead and pull it. Here is the #7 wiped exhaust valve lobe:

and this is the way the car sits as of tonight! It was a Corona kind of day!

IMO the hardening process that is used didn't take on that particular lobe, probably nothing you did wrong in the break-in. I doubt you have triple H.D. springs on your heads. I see there is a big show in october, I,ll be coming up for that. We can get together then.

 

[BRUCE DYDA]

You probably know this already, But todays oils have had all the zinc removed and is causing abnormal wear to cams and lifters in short time, always use oil that has ZDTP in it or a ZDPT additive.

 

[BRUCE DYDA]

You probably know this already, But todays oils have had all the zinc removed and is causing abnormal wear to cams and lifters in short time, always use oil that has ZDPT in it or a ZDTP additive.

 

[sstock]

Sorry to hear Fred, that's a hell of a lot of work, disassembling when you are dealing with shiny parts.
Good luck on the reassembly and yes pick yourself up some compcams zinc additive or equivalent.

 

[Flatsman]

Thanks for the info Bruce. I didn't know this until I started reasearching why my lobe wiped out. All my other stuff has rollers and this is the first time I have been back into flat tappets in years. Back then, they had zinc in the oil and I was totally unaware that this could even be a problem. I have just started looking for new oil for the T so could you recommend a few brands. I have also purchased an additive for new cam. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[2old2fast]

Valvoline racing oil [not intended for highway use] has [I think] 1200 ppm ZDDP , BRAD PENN & JOE GIBBS racing also is supposed to have sufficent amounts , otherwise , a ZDDP supplement is the way to go . I'm guessing there are other brands...

dave

 

[Flatsman]

Sorry to hear Fred, that's a hell of a lot of work, disassembling when you are dealing with shiny parts.
Good luck on the reassembly and yes pick yourself up some compcams zinc additive or equivalent.

Yup, it sucks! lol Actually I am using this little tear down to improve the car. I have put 70 miles on it and found a few things that I wanted to change. First, I have a rear seal leak that I am going to fix, second, I am relocating where the temp sensor is located on the motor. I discovered that my gear drive unit was not clearanced and was marking the timing chain cover. I am installing a new and better oil pump and pickup. Finally, I am installing a thermostadt controled electric fan for this car. With the old school set up, I was constantly worrying about getting caught at long lights and in heavy traffic. I am relocating the tranny cooler off the radiator. Everyone have a safe weekend! Happy Memorial Day.

 

[Flatsman]

Valvoline racing oil [not intended for highway use] has [I think] 1200 ppm ZDDP , BRAD PENN & JOE GIBBS racing also is supposed to have sufficent amounts , otherwise , a ZDDP supplement is the way to go . I'm guessing there are other brands...

dave

Thanks Dave, I think I will go with the supplement!

 

[Keeper]

Royal Purple also has a high zinc oil. I am using it in mine, so far so good.

 

[one finger john]

Happy Memorial Day.

Try the "Bob's the oil Guy" site. Very informational. Stay away from Fram filters. Cut your filter open to see how much cam debris it caught. If it were my car I would do a complete tear down (engine is out anyway) and clean, clean, clean. Right down to bare block. Oil passage way plug removal, check oil pump, bore brushes, hot soapy water (Tide), compressed air, the whole deal. But that's me.

 

[benT]

I've been using the Lucas Oil "Hot Rod Oil" for the last year or so. Its a bit more expensive than standard oil, but less expensive than Brad Penn or Royal Purple and its not 50 wt racing oil either. Summit has it for about $25 /5gal jug. It has the high zinc/ZDDP and molybdenum content: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10679-1

 

[meangreen]

Yeah, you can never get that engine TOO clean. I had a fresh stock car engine eat a couple of cam lobes once due to improper break-in. When we tore it down the rod and main bearings were imbedded with thousands of particles of cast iron cam material. We lucked out; only had to have the crank lightly polished before reassembly with fresh bearings.

John - What's wrong with Fram filters? I've used Fram, Purolator, Wix, etc. - can't tell any difference.

 

[guilld]

Local O'Rileys had a fram cut open and one of their filters. The fram had very little filtering compared to the other filters.

 

[one finger john]

MeanGreen, Frams of the last few years (especially after their buyout) were shipped off shore for production. Materials and workmanship suffered. John Force earned his sponsorship money. Again go to Bob's the Oil Guy or go to Speed Talk (at present a good debate is brewing). I was sucked into the Fram world since my hot rodding days started, but after seeing the original Bob's The Oil Guy report (took apart dozens of oil filters and you could REALLY see the difference) I have changed to either Wix or Napa Gold. Check out Speed Talk right now. You won't be sorry.

John

P.S. Bob's the Oil Guy also does oil analysis of all the oil brands. ZDDP, think Rotella Diesel Oil. Less expensive than Joe Gibbs, or the purple brand and just as effective.

 

[Flatsman]

Great discussion on oil and filters! I wish I had all this info about 6 months ago! Live and learn!

 

[Flatsman]

I got the new cam in and the new oil pump installed, and the new rear seal put in, but......I checked the rear main bearing and then the front main and saw copper and I just don't feel good about putting this motor back in since I have it so far apart. I didn't like the looks of the crank either. The whole thing is going over to my engine builder today and I will let you know if it is within specs to rebuild.

 

[Flatsman]

Standard bearings! Pulled the heads yesterday and everything is going out to the builder today. The crank will have to be turned. This isn't all from one lobe, the motor was just very tired. At least I will know what I have now.

 

[putz]

I had that same problem with an off brand gear drive hitting cover. Can you say chinese junk ? Put a 383 stroker in my kids truck used royal purple.oil worked out great added additive to first oil to be safe. I did read somewhere about lifter holes on these newer engines some times get egged out also causing lifters to not ride flat.

 

[Flatsman]

I had that same problem with an off brand gear drive hitting cover. Can you say chinese junk ? Put a 383 stroker in my kids truck used royal purple.oil worked out great added additive to first oil to be safe. I did read somewhere about lifter holes on these newer engines some times get egged out also causing lifters to not ride flat.

That cheap gear drive is going bye bye! I clearanced the back of it and installed a cam button and the button was hitting the cover! I am not going to clearance that button!