tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Here ya go Paul.
tfeverfred's project
- Thread starter tfeverfred
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
PaulR said:
Yes, I had it made so the wires run through the support tubes. You should have called! Me and the Missus just got done scootin' around a little!:lol:
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Open Invite!
This goes out to PaulR and anyone else in the Houston area. If you would like to take a look at my build, just let me know. I can always use opinions and advice and who knows, I may have some to share with you!
On Saturdays, I do a little work for a mechanic friend who has a shop across the street from where I work (where my T Bucket is) and usually knock off at around 4PM. I take my T for a few quick runs, then I go the house. With a little notice, we could meet after that. On Sundays, I usually go up to work around 9AM and check my car out to see if things are still good and tight. A habit I will do when she's road ready too. If you want to swing up and check her out then, that's cool too. We'd enjoy the company! She takes kindly to strangers and would welcome you as new friends.
So, drop me an email: wyche_37@hotmail.com or PM me. I check both everyday. If your hot rod is running, bring it! The neighborhood needs to get a dose of the fun we're havin'!
This goes out to PaulR and anyone else in the Houston area. If you would like to take a look at my build, just let me know. I can always use opinions and advice and who knows, I may have some to share with you!
On Saturdays, I do a little work for a mechanic friend who has a shop across the street from where I work (where my T Bucket is) and usually knock off at around 4PM. I take my T for a few quick runs, then I go the house. With a little notice, we could meet after that. On Sundays, I usually go up to work around 9AM and check my car out to see if things are still good and tight. A habit I will do when she's road ready too. If you want to swing up and check her out then, that's cool too. We'd enjoy the company! She takes kindly to strangers and would welcome you as new friends.
So, drop me an email: wyche_37@hotmail.com or PM me. I check both everyday. If your hot rod is running, bring it! The neighborhood needs to get a dose of the fun we're havin'!
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Signal lights
Got my signal lights from Speedway today. A quick and easy install. I didn't want them too high, but I wanted them where they could be seen. About 4" above the frame and attached to the side of the grill shell seemed good. Man, it sure makes me nervous when I have to take something sharp to that shell!
Got my signal lights from Speedway today. A quick and easy install. I didn't want them too high, but I wanted them where they could be seen. About 4" above the frame and attached to the side of the grill shell seemed good. Man, it sure makes me nervous when I have to take something sharp to that shell!
Sweet Fred
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Lokar shifter issues
Yesturday, I was scooting around in my T Bucket and thought I didn't have the reverse lockout features that are supposed to be with my Lokar shifter. This morning, after rereading the instructions, I discovered that everything was fine. I normally don't check it, so I had forgotten how the feature operates!:lol: But one thing I have noticed in the past and today was that the push button on top of the knob wants to stay depressed. A little jiggle seems to make it pop up, but this not how it should be.
There is supposed to be a teflon bushing inside the knob and after checking with a few pwople who have a Lokar shifter, it seems that this is a common issue. I'm going to see if the bushing wears itself into normal operation over time or I may just add a little lithium grease to it. It's not a really big issue, but something I'll need to keep an eye on. If anyone has input on this issue, please chime in.
I also installed a quick disconnect for my battery cable. I found one at the auto sparts store and while it's not as fancy as the type usually used, it does the same thing and was only $4.99.
Yesturday, I was scooting around in my T Bucket and thought I didn't have the reverse lockout features that are supposed to be with my Lokar shifter. This morning, after rereading the instructions, I discovered that everything was fine. I normally don't check it, so I had forgotten how the feature operates!
:lol: But one thing I have noticed in the past and today was that the push button on top of the knob wants to stay depressed. A little jiggle seems to make it pop up, but this not how it should be. There is supposed to be a teflon bushing inside the knob and after checking with a few pwople who have a Lokar shifter, it seems that this is a common issue. I'm going to see if the bushing wears itself into normal operation over time or I may just add a little lithium grease to it. It's not a really big issue, but something I'll need to keep an eye on. If anyone has input on this issue, please chime in.
I also installed a quick disconnect for my battery cable. I found one at the auto sparts store and while it's not as fancy as the type usually used, it does the same thing and was only $4.99.
Duke
Member
Fred, on the Lokar shifter, you need to adjust it just a little. Looking forward from the back, on the right side at the base, you will see the starter safty switch.. To adjust the safety switch there is two screws near the base that when loosened, you can move the switch plate to adjust the switch position. - On the left side - there is two screws at the bottom of the left side plate. This plate adjust the shifter locking points. It has some dedents on the inside of the plate that the shifter locks into. You need to adjust this plate just a little one way or the orther - and the button will pop up and lock the shifter in postition. Being as how you can get the button to pop up with a little bump to the shifter tells me you are real close and need to adjust the dedent plate just a hair. Hope this helps -
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Duke said:
Thanks for the help! I'll take a look at adjust it. Then, well you just KNOW I have to take a "test drive"!:feedback:
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Duke, your advice was the ticket. Thanks! I checked out the bolts and they had worked themselves loose OR I probably never had them tight enough to begin with. Never the less, I was able to adjust the setting and tighten the bolts up. It was a minor struggle to reach the bolts and them being allen heads sure didn't help any either. All is well in Miss Behavin' land.
And yes, I took a test drive to make sure.:lol:
I checked out the bolts and they had worked themselves loose OR I probably never had them tight enough to begin with. Never the less, I was able to adjust the setting and tighten the bolts up. It was a minor struggle to reach the bolts and them being allen heads sure didn't help any either. All is well in Miss Behavin' land.And yes, I took a test drive to make sure.:lol:
Mike
Well-Known Member
Fred, I'm hoping you checked out the electrical specs on that disconnect switch carefully. It was sold under the Molten Lava or Roman Candle trade names, was it? I know what I have to pay for switches from my suppliers and a fiver isn't even close.
You better make sure of what you have there. We don't want to have to start calling you Smokey!
I know what I have to pay for switches from my suppliers and a fiver isn't even close.You better make sure of what you have there. We don't want to have to start calling you Smokey!
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Mike said:Fred, I'm hoping you checked out the electrical specs on that disconnect switch carefully. It was sold under the Molten Lava or Roman Candle trade names, was it?
You better make sure of what you have there. We don't want to have to start calling you Smokey!
Thanks for looking out, Mike. It's just a simple disconnect. Unscrew a knob and the cable end disconnects from the end attached to the battery post. See, I don't have my car wired yet, so it's running off the battery. When I leave it hooked up, it drains it a little, so I installed this to keep from losing a little juice while just sitting.
all-world1
Member
This is the first time I've read thru this thread, I like how you did the updates chronogically with a lot of good pics as well. It's a great build fred... a very clean looking chassis, well thought out. Your experiences will be a big help to us new builders. Two thumbs up.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
all-world1 said:
Thanks. Thank the webmaster for keeping it together. Yea, I'm a test rat and lovin' it!:lol:
Hotrod46
Member
Fred
Your car looks great!:lol: I've followed it on both the NTBA and HAMB, but I just lurk at NTBA and rarely post to the HAMB.
I'm going to read the whole thread when I get a little time. Keep up the good work.
BTW Yogi is right about the drain on the battery. You may have a bad diode in your alternator. Just a thought.
Mike
Your car looks great!:lol: I've followed it on both the NTBA and HAMB, but I just lurk at NTBA and rarely post to the HAMB.
I'm going to read the whole thread when I get a little time. Keep up the good work.
BTW Yogi is right about the drain on the battery. You may have a bad diode in your alternator. Just a thought.
Mike
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Guys, NONE of my electric stuff is hooked up!:welcome: Heck, I don't have an ignition swich yet and nothing running to or from the alternator. I have my starter hooked up so that I can jump it and my car is running off the battery. It's an Interstate (cheap plug) and is holding a very good charge, but if I keep it hooked up, it loses a little. No big deal, I have a charger.
Thanks for your concerns and I probably should have explained my temporary setup a little more. I do plan to try and wire my car this weekend though. KoalaT is sending me each circuit at a time and I'm going to give it a shot. Even though..........ELECTRICITY IS THE DEVIL!
Thanks for your concerns and I probably should have explained my temporary setup a little more. I do plan to try and wire my car this weekend though. KoalaT is sending me each circuit at a time and I'm going to give it a shot. Even though..........ELECTRICITY IS THE DEVIL!
LumenAl
Member
tfeverfred said:...ELECTRICITY IS THE DEVIL!
Not that tough really... get your fuse panel, separate the wires that run front... rear... and dash... then route, hook up and your done!
Last week we (me and a buddy) stripped out all the wiring in another buddies 55 ford panel...
1-1/2 days, completely done... and was done a lot cleaner than the original to boot... everything worked, started right up, life was good. I suggest you simply take your time... one step at a time, and you'll get'r done! I suggest using a good ground bus that grounds everything to the frame, and FYI, I ran each gauge ground back to a ground bus, not looped!
Of course, as always... Post Pics! :welcome:
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
"She looks good from behind!"
:lol:Miss Behavin' that is!:welcome: Model A tail lights were donated to the T build and I was going to make my own brackets. At the last moment, I saw a set of brackets from Speedway and took a chance that they would work. My hunch paid off! I had to grind a little bit of the brackets away to fit around where a wire comes out of the rear of the housing, but that was it. Drilled and tapped my frame where I wanted them to mount and that was it.
STOP laughing at her gas tank!!:lol: Actually, you can take your last look and have your last laugh. I should be ordering her gas tank this weekend and if all goes well, the next time you see Miss Behavin's butt, she'll have a nice round can back there!:bow:
It's from The Hot Rod Company and the one I'm getting holds 11.5 gallons. It comes with the sender and is made of galvanized steel. I intend to keep it in it's steel finish to get the lo-buck look I have going. Actually, it's not a look, it's just the way it is!
I am also goint to use their repro brass gas cap. The brass should be a nice color contrast and I'll let it tarnish a little to keep the look going.
I'm going to use their fuel outlet. Again, a nice repro piece and finished in brass. It also has a cut off valve.
Then, I'll use tank mounts from Speedway because they mount the tank about an inch more off the frame.
So, stay tuned the next few entries should be very intersting.
:lol:Miss Behavin' that is!:welcome: Model A tail lights were donated to the T build and I was going to make my own brackets. At the last moment, I saw a set of brackets from Speedway and took a chance that they would work. My hunch paid off! I had to grind a little bit of the brackets away to fit around where a wire comes out of the rear of the housing, but that was it. Drilled and tapped my frame where I wanted them to mount and that was it.
STOP laughing at her gas tank!!
:lol: Actually, you can take your last look and have your last laugh. I should be ordering her gas tank this weekend and if all goes well, the next time you see Miss Behavin's butt, she'll have a nice round can back there!:bow:It's from The Hot Rod Company and the one I'm getting holds 11.5 gallons. It comes with the sender and is made of galvanized steel. I intend to keep it in it's steel finish to get the lo-buck look I have going. Actually, it's not a look, it's just the way it is!
I am also goint to use their repro brass gas cap. The brass should be a nice color contrast and I'll let it tarnish a little to keep the look going.
I'm going to use their fuel outlet. Again, a nice repro piece and finished in brass. It also has a cut off valve.
Then, I'll use tank mounts from Speedway because they mount the tank about an inch more off the frame.
So, stay tuned the next few entries should be very intersting.
