Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Track Bucket build

I haven't finished the seat yet but I did get a new starter that will allow more room for exhaust and moving the steering box closer to the firewall. It's the 2007 Dodge Ram 5.7L manual transmission starter and it sure makes a big difference in space and weight! I need to get some longer bolts as the ones the previous owner used were too short for comfort. I may build a little heat shield since the solenoid is slightly closer to the exhaust. It may not make much of a difference since my roadster doesn't have a hood or sides.





I got the starter installed and it works great! I went to drive it to a friend's house to do some work on the car and discovered some front end issues and wasn't able to make it to do the work so I doubt I will be racing this season. It looks like the king pin bushings are wore out on the front spindles. They can be hand reamed but it's not as accurate and reduces the lifespan of the bushings. The better option is to find someone with a Sunnen hone that can size the bushings exactly to the kingpin. I reached out to a truck service center nearby to see if they could do it. Also made a post on my local group for the HAMB to try and find a shop.

One day I will be able to enjoy this car... one day
You might check automotive machine shops too. Wrist pin hone may expand enough to do the bushings. What spindles you using? Some Chevy spindles don’t need reaming.
You might check automotive machine shops too. Wrist pin hone may expand enough to do the bushings. What spindles you using? Some Chevy spindles don’t need reaming.
Yup i'm going to check with my machinist friend first to see if he thinks he could do it on his lathe if not i will ask around at engine shops. The spindles are roundback ford spindles so they definitely require reaming after installing new bushings.

Good news though is I readjusted the toe to 1/8" and haven't had anymore issues even while drag racing!
Last weekend was the first time going down a drag strip for me and my roadster! It was a blast running with the Vintage Eliminator group at South Mountain Raceway in Boiling Springs, PA. This group is mostly made up of early ford 4 cylinders and flat head v8s and a few early OHV v8s. Luckily they allow me and another guy to run with our slant sixes since our cars are made to look the part. It's bracket racing so it doesn't matter who's faster. We had over 30 cars in the group which is the highest turn out to date at any of the events. I need to make some adjustments to the carb as I couldn't leave hard or it would cut out. I tried power braking and launching but the car would just cut out as soon as i mashed the pedal. I'm going to reset my air bleed screws for max vacuum and try some starts on a back road. If that doesn't fix it I will try the other hole on the accelerator pump lever (Stromberg WW) My best run of the day was 9.89 @ 69.46 mph in the 1/8 mile. I even made it to the 3rd round which surprised me. The best part is no parts fell off and I was able to drive it on the trailer at the end of the day haha.

Today I adjusted the timing and switched the vacuum advanced hose (i took it off while adjusting the timing) to ported vacuum versus manifold vacuum and this made a huge difference. Now i can load up the converter and launch a lot harder. There is still a little hesitation so I'm going to check the points gap tomorrow. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I can race again at Eastside Speedway, Waynesboro VA on April 29th!

Video proof...
Made some progress on the shocks and headlight mounts today. Waiting for my step drill bit to come in so I can add some speed holes to the shock arms. I also ordered a reversed corvair steering box from RPM Monday of last week just waiting on it to ship. The current box has some play in the pitman arm shaft and i can't adjust the box any. This new box from RPM will make it handle a lot better on the road.


1929 model A headlights will fit in those headlight brackets. My project car shares a body shop with a 1967 Camaro & a 1929 model A sport coupe. I bolted it's stock headlights ( their about 9"s) to those same headlight brackets.
I can't remember what my lights say on the housings maybe twolite but the lens say Ford. Got them weird up and working. Also heard from Ron and the box should ship tomorrow. He didn't have any in stock so he had to order more.

I also got the socks hooked up and will test tomorrow. Can't post photos since I'm on my phone and the files are too large
Here are some photos on of the shocks and the way she stands today. Test drove the car today and the shocks worked great. I still need to take the shocks apart and paint them.
I ended up making the discs out of a sheet of slippery UHMW Polyethylene from McMaster-Carr. I read up on sooo many different options for the friction disc material but ended up going with the UHMW after reading how the slippery material makes for a smoother operating shock due to less stiction or intial friction. This from Holden Vintage and Classic talks about Hartford adding this material for use on their shocks and shows the difference between the UHMW and wood and brass.

I originally was going to use a pair of 40 ford hydraulic lever shocks for the rear but i may make another set of friction shocks like I did for the front. Here is the link for the plastic. I bought a 12 x12, 1/4" thick sheet and cut it using an adjustable circle cutter bit in the drill press.



That’s interesting that UHMW PE works as well as it does. I would think that the material would be too slippery. But considering what you experienced and watching the video I may have to reconsider my thoughts on that design! And it seems they would be easy to make yourself.
That’s interesting that UHMW PE works as well as it does. I would think that the material would be too slippery. But considering what you experienced and watching the video I may have to reconsider my thoughts on that design! And it seems they would be easy to make yourself.

Definitely worth a shot! It wasn't too hateful cutting the discs. the plastic definitely doesn't drill like wood or metal best to go slow so you don't melt it. I also was using a cheap adjustable circle bit
You need sharp tools and make sure your tool doesn’t grab! if I tried to make them I think I would use Belleville washers. Makes for a lower profile. And you can stack them to increase spring force.
I received my new steering box from RPM but unfortunately the case is an 1" longer than the box I have so it won't fit in my car. Nothing is ever easy on this car :(
Found a good arrival about they bucket. Can’t make the link work but go to “Tbucket Plans . Com then blog and scroll down.


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