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My Slow Moving Project

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sandmountainslim

New Member
Hello everyone,
I posted about my 2.3 liter T Bucket project in my intro thread
but I thought this would be the proper place to post updates. I have been talking since 1990 and still no completed car ;) I believe i will get it done this time.

So far I have

Original T Grill Shell

I-Beam Axle from 34 V-8 Ford

1988 Ford 2.3 engine and transmission


My leg doner (ROUGH) grill shell failed to sell for 1.99 on Ebay so now my plan is to break it down and rived it to the floor of my ride to save a little sheet metal from the scrap heap. I am now also currently the high bidder on a '26 or '27 amp meter and ignition setup (I guess close to an instrument panel as they had) on Ebay, if I win that will look nice in my bucket.
All my friends tell me to go for the frame as next on my list but I plan on defying logic and ordering a body instead. When I have the body on hand it will motivate me to finish the project whereas a frame and suspension does nothing for my imagination. Wish me luck!
Wp



Post Scriptum:
How does one know for sure if their grill shell is Low or High style? I believe the one I own is low but is there a way to tell for certain?
 
Buy the body, then use 2X4 lumber to build your frame. Its easier to goof up on wood than metal.
 
Things do move slowly when planning & building a car. I have had the plans for the current project in my head for 10 years or more. Time & finances dont always allow things to happen at the pace we want them to, but you must have a plan and stick to it.

I find the trick is tke small steps and keep taking them. Collect the bits you need, but follow your plan/vision, and don't be distracted by "trends" or you will always be changing things and never get finished. Just keep plugging away, and you will acheive your goals.

I would buy the body first, then like Todd said, use timber for mocking up, heaps easier & cheaper than steel. I have heap of pics of my 26/27RPU sitting on 2x4 with wheels leaned up against it. Take your time, sit wheels where you think they should be to suit the wheelbase you have in mind, move the body back & forward a bit on the 2x4, and inch or two can make a bit difference, raise or lower the body, put a bit of rake on it, play around until you get the look you want and once you have it THEN worry about building the frame. I also fitted castors under the timber frame to move it around. When i got the engine & trans i welded up a frame to carry them, again with castors fitted so i could wheel it in and out of the body.

Mock it up and look at it and dream about it, and it will keep you moving, Its nice to lookin the shed and see something mocked up rather than a pile of bits under a tarp.
 
these are the heigth of the opening....the low one is 15" and the high one is 16"

Ron
 
Ive never done a T Bucket, but I can tell you from repairing fiberglass boats and doing a frame off resto-mod on a 55 chevy with my dad...you definitely want the body when you build your frame, youre going to have to do a lot of test fittings and figuring as you go along. Kits are USUALLY close, but when you paint, powdercoat, modify and source parts from different people and places...if something is off by 1/16 of an inch, at the end of your chassis, things could be off by SEVERAL inches and you'll go nuts trying to modify your body to fit your frame instead of the other way around. As they say "The Devil is in the details." There are plenty of half finished hotrods out there...all the same too. Sound familiar?
Motor is done and painted, frame detailed, lots of body parts bought...but when the guy has to cut out the floorpan or lay under the body in january scraping 50yr old undercoating off in a cold garage, or do wiring....suddenly its not fun, its work...and the car sits. Which is when *I* buy it.
 
Thanks for the advise fellers :crap: The wooden frame is a GREAT idea, never would have thought of that on my own.
I won the auction for the two '26 ignition/amp panels so I think one of them would look great in the center of my dash when I get the body. I am only wishing now (and getting depressed) that I had not sold the '25 engine and trans I had years ago, if I still had that engine I could use the serial number to register my car when finished. I do live in Alabama where cars pre-1975 don't need titles but it would be nice if I had an original T serial number to go on my finished product.
Wp
 
Im not advocating it for a 300hp 327; BUT, MANY cars had wooden frames (I think the Morgan still does...dont quote me on that). In Syracuse, NY a company near and dear to me called Franklin Motors built wood framed, inline aircooled 6cyl engines in beautiful coachwork that was on par with dusenberg, packard and caddiliac. H.H. Franklin held a patent on diecasting aluminum and some of the things we take for granted today (like aluminum pistons) were products of his design. Later, during the Great Depression, the bank took over Franklin Motors and decided they needed to have a V12 to compete with the duseys and packards. the Franklin company DID produce aircooled 12cyl 350cid (5.7L) engines and had overdrive transmissions and steel frames. While these cars are good, they honestly dont ride as well as a restored woodframed car. A few years later the bank closed the factory. In a last hurrah! Franklin was revamped as Franklin Aircooled, which made flat 6cyl aircooled engines for several planes and the fledgeling Bell Helicopter company. AND the automotive icing on the cake...they made the engine for Preston Tuckers little car as well.

Yeah it has nothing to do with a T; but you mentioned wood frames so I went on a tangent, sorry LOL

In case youre wondering, my great grandfather (george post) was in R&D for Franklin and Franklin A/C. He ended up being a Bell test pilot and one of the engineers on the Tucker project as well. He passed in 1990 when I was 8...I wish I had known enough to ask more questions. NOTE: some eastern block country still makes the Franklin aircooled flat 6...now if we can get a Tucker body...

~Nate
 
Heres the start of my project, i wanted the ground clearance under the chassis at 5" and was going to use 3x2 RHS for the rails SO used 2x4 rails with 2x4 underneath, 8" to the floor of the tub, same as it is now its rolling.
DSC00005.jpg


DSC00022.jpg
 
very cool, and i like the small things. good idea for a shift knob. quite original. chaz
 
I've got a feeling this is going to be a col car. Please keep the updates coming.
 
Another addition to my T project.
Gave fifty bucks for it and the previous owner thinks it is the trunk from an old Buick. Have a look and see what you think it is. I believe it will go good with a Tbucket Rat Rod like I am trying to build.
Wp
 
A little more progress, I ordered the front and rear crossmembers from an original T frame today so now I have:


Low Style Grill Shell

'26 Amp Guage/ignition panel

'35 Ford front axle

1 Model T Hubcap

'88 Mustang 4 banger drivetrain

Frame Crossmembers from a '22 (enroute)

Repro Data Plate for body

Model T Owner's Manual (How to Run the Model T Ford)

20's Buick removable luggage trunk

1926 Registration Paper's from a '22 in N.C.

Ford Script Model T Wrench

Sheet Metal from a '47 International Pickup (possible flooring use)


I have a good lead on a radiator and I should be ordering my fiberglass '23 body within the next few weeks.
Moving slow but picking up steam!
Wp
 
sandmountainslim said:
A little more progress, I ordered the front and rear crossmembers from an original T frame today so now I have:


Low Style Grill Shell

'26 Amp Guage/ignition panel

'35 Ford front axle

1 Model T Hubcap

'88 Mustang 4 banger drivetrain

Frame Crossmembers from a '22 (enroute)

Repro Data Plate for body

Model T Owner's Manual (How to Run the Model T Ford)

20's Buick removable luggage trunk

1926 Registration Paper's from a '22 in N.C.

Ford Script Model T Wrench

Sheet Metal from a '47 International Pickup (possible flooring use)


I have a good lead on a radiator and I should be ordering my fiberglass '23 body within the next few weeks.
Moving slow but picking up steam!
Wp
Click to expand...

Hang in there your on the right track.
 
Thanks Rick,
I am excited about getting the T Body, that will really kick it into high gear.
I have been looking at all the slick pimped-out TBuckets online and on ebay motors and I just want the opposite of that. I plan on spraying the body with red primer soon as I get it, leaving the surface rust on the grill shell and the flaked out old black paint on the trunk. Also plan on using steel wheels spray painted red.
I don't want my T to look like it should be anywhere near a car show or parade........I want it to look like it was just dragged out of the woods where it had been molested by a Subaru for a few years :eek:
Wp
 
Ordered my body today!
A '23 from Spirit Industries.
This project is moving along. More progress in two months than in the past 15 years combined.
Wp
 
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