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The Yeti's 27 T Build

My guess would be that the heim joints don't deflect very much the way you have them mounted and could break if the axle travels too far either up or down? Maybe it is not an issue, I don't really know. Typically you see batwings and clevises, but "typical" doesn't mean it is the only way. If you ever decide to use batwings, Pete and Jakes sell ones that will bolt onto your axle. I used them to make custom batwings for my model A.

Thanks for the tip on the Pete and jakes bat wings.

Being as the heim joint is spherical in nature it has no care what position it is used in as long as it doesn't bind. I'm fully aware that a binding heim joint could turn into a sheering situation but ive got WAY more free travel in this suspension system than this car is capable of using. I fail to see an issue with this setup.
 
You're making real progress, Chris.:thumbsup: I saw the discussion of your front end on the social media page and I can't say your arrangement is unsafe, though a bit unconventional. Only problem I see would be putting one end of the axle at a steep angle (like a steep driveway?) and binding the heim perhaps to the breaking point. But in normal driving I can't see a problem. If they were mounted vertical, in a batwing say, there would be no danger of binding.

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You're making real progress, Chris.:thumbsup: I saw the discussion of your front end on the social media page and I can't say your arrangement is unsafe, though a bit unconventional. Only problem I see would be putting one end of the axle at a steep angle (like a steep driveway?) and binding the heim perhaps to the breaking point. But in normal driving I can't see a problem. If they were mounted vertical, in a batwing say, there would be no danger of binding.

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Definitely making progress. Not as far along as I wanted to be. I wanted a rolling chassis by the end of this month... hope to have it driving by the fall.
 
Only thing I have to say about the front axle is I would like to see the rods further apart. With only the width of the axle between them you won’t have as much resistance to roll forces when you apply braking forces. The bat wings would be a good fix plus you get the heim ends in a more traditional configuration.
 
I agree with Long John. Very little moment arm with the small distance compared to 6"with the bat wings. I looked farther back and did see the spring shackles!
 
Yeti, I think your front end will be just fine. How will you control lateral movement of the axle? Panhard, Watts, Rulo?
 
Yeti, I think your front end will be just fine. How will you control lateral movement of the axle? Panhard, Watts, Rulo?

Well that's something that was going to be a "cross the bridge when I get to it" kind of thing... There is very little to no 1/4 elip info that I have been able to find but from the input that I have found, they say you don't need a panhard with the 1/4 elip springs and side steer.
 
Well that's something that was going to be a "cross the bridge when I get to it" kind of thing... There is very little to no 1/4 elip info that I have been able to find but from the input that I have found, they say you don't need a panhard with the 1/4 elip springs and side steer.

Speedway has info on the 1/4 elliptic setups.

Maybe RPM has done some before.

Give them a call.
 
Speedway has info on the 1/4 elliptic setups.

Maybe RPM has done some before.

Give them a call.

Don't know where the 1/4 elip info is on speedway.. I found steering articles and what not.. no 1/4 elip. Would you share a link?
 
My neighbor has a '27 track T that he built using a body, frame, etc. from Zipper Motors. It has 1/4 elliptical springs on the front, I'll see if I can get some pix tomorrow.
 
You need shackles in the axle. There will be no movement with the spring arch and the radius rods being different lengths.

It has shackles. The perches are bolted straight into axle, shackles bolted to it, and the shackles hang down to bolt to the spring. It's hard to see in the picture. You aren't the only one to say this but I assure you it has shackles.
 
It's getting to be a big puzzle. Everything just has enough room to fit. Mocking everything up. Building motor mounts, transmission cross member and mount, master cylinder mount.

Had to search the junkyard yesterday.. the big 130amp GM alternator was in the same place as the frame rail... no good. Found this jem from a 98-00 Honda Accord. 80 amps is plenty for this hotrod. Will make a custom upper mount but it bolts up to the factory lower bolt.

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The master is going to have solid rod running to it. I just put the tube there to see clearance. Motor mounts will have gussets.
 
The master cylinder mount is gonna also double as the "landing" where the transmission crossmember meets the frame. Their will be a piece of 1/4 plate on the right side too where the crossmember lands.
 
Cardboard templates make life so easy.

Built my dash today. Didn't want to spend the $700 on the gauges that interface the GM pcm so I used a silverado cluster. The cluster is recessed and will have a nice smoked plexi glass cover over it that will hopefully only show what is lit up. Some black paint will fake the eye too..

A 5.25" speaker on both corners of the dash will finish it.

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Yeah, they aren’t shy about price on gauges. Hopefully your cluster is in good shape, they are known to fail. I have one in my truck that periodically acts up.
 
Yeah, they aren’t shy about price on gauges. Hopefully your cluster is in good shape, they are known to fail. I have one in my truck that periodically acts up.

I've replaced the stepper motors in them before. There's actually a kit produced for doing this. Hoping this ones good but I could always use one for a manual so I don't have to see the PRNDL that I'm not wiring up.

Gotta give it the ole smack on the dash and they come back to life! Lol.
 

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