Tri Bar rear setup

[Oldbuilder]

Finally got the rear Tri-Bar setup installed this weekend less finish welding. Had to make the top traction bars twice,, first ones were too long and made the Heim joint bind up more than I was wanting. Here's a few pix of what it looks like. You all post your thoughts, too late to cut it out unless I want to make all new stuff. I'm pretty happy with how it's working so far.

 

[Dino]

 

[Francis Blake]

I like that, lower than a panhard bar

 

[Zandoz]

What type of rear end is that? I've been trying to find an 87-88' T-Bird rear that I believe has similar link tabs on top. How long did the upper links end up?

 

[bigblk1177]

I think that would be called a triangulated four bar setup. Very good looking design I like it. Had thought about one for a customers car but he decided he liked the radius bar setup better after looking at several different designs. I was gonna use a fox body mustang rear I had to get the upper mounts. Looks like that maybe what you used. Good job There.

 

[Oldbuilder]

What type of rear end is that? I've been trying to find an 87-88' T-Bird rear that I believe has similar link tabs on top. How long did the upper links end up?

It's a Fox body Mustang rear end but don't ask me what year. The guy I bought it from didn't know ha ha ha . The upper rod's came out and 10 inches and with the Heim joints overall is 13. The lower are 36" overall.

Yep your right,,, it's called a triangulated four bar,,, ,what was I thinking !!!

 

[Ttownbucket]

Is there any way you can post more pics from different angles? When I build mine I want it to sit as low as possible and this looks like the way to go without anything hitting the body.

 

[Ttownbucket]

Looks great by the way.

 

[sstock]

Yeah, I like it to. Anything to get rid of a panhard bar, also you can put a deeper gas tank in too. Tires stay centered as the rear goes up and down, much better design IMHO.

 

[Oldbuilder]

Sure, I'll get more photos this weekend when I finish up the welding. The one thing I want to check is just how easy it will travel vertically. I need to disconnect the shocks and lift it up and down to check full travel. I'm sure it's fine but it's the one check I haven't made. I was not going to run a pan hard bar if I could avoid it. One other aspect is the rear should remain in a steady posture during vertical movement as well instead of rotating. I know it's a small amount when running radius rod's but even that little bit over time will work on something. I'd like to make a four bar in the front when time permits. It of course would require a pan hard bar. Maybe I could find a way to triangulate that too ha ha ha . I'm just saying

 

[EX JUNK]

Sure, I'll get more photos this weekend when I finish up the welding. The one thing I want to check is just how easy it will travel vertically. I need to disconnect the shocks and lift it up and down to check full travel. I'm sure it's fine but it's the one check I haven't made. I was not going to run a pan hard bar if I could avoid it. One other aspect is the rear should remain in a steady posture during vertical movement as well instead of rotating. I know it's a small amount when running radius rod's but even that little bit over time will work on something. I'd like to make a four bar in the front when time permits. It of course would require a pan hard bar. Maybe I could find a way to triangulate that too ha ha ha . I'm just saying

Go to this link on HOT ROD REFUGE: http://hotrodrefuge.com/threads/vudu-deuce-build.105/. On page two of that build you'll see that my son has a triangulated front four bar set up on the '32 that he is building. Check it out.

Jim

 

[Mike J]

Sure, I'll get more photos this weekend when I finish up the welding. The one thing I want to check is just how easy it will travel vertically. I need to disconnect the shocks and lift it up and down to check full travel. I'm sure it's fine but it's the one check I haven't made. I was not going to run a pan hard bar if I could avoid it. One other aspect is the rear should remain in a steady posture during vertical movement as well instead of rotating. I know it's a small amount when running radius rod's but even that little bit over time will work on something. I'd like to make a four bar in the front when time permits. It of course would require a pan hard bar. Maybe I could find a way to triangulate that too ha ha ha . I'm just saying

I have changed to 4 bar on the front for that very reason, I had hardly no vertical movement at the corners. Both sides would, at the same time move vertically. I have since changed the spacing at the rear mount, to be closer together than the front batwings. If I kept it the same I got caster change of approx. 3 deg. Moving the rear bars closer by about an 1-1/4" I had no caster change. I might go to 4 bar on the rear also. The bars in this shot are not moved together yet.

 

[Oldbuilder]

Hey Jim,,, that's a mighty fine looking build going on there. The front tri setup looks pretty easy to do too. If I decide to build another Hot Rod that info will come in handy.
What are your thought's with radius rod's on a T-Bucket,,, would it be better to go four bar? Not wanting to change at this stage but if I were now would be the time. Of course,,, getting the pan hard worked out would be fun. With the spring over axle, there's been lot's of tinkering going on. This is also the first time I've ever built a Hot Rod. Man the thing's I've learned,,,,, very long thread so we'll leave it to another day ha ha ha. Thanks for the link,,, wish I hade a shop like that to work in too.

 

[EX JUNK]

Hey Jim,,, that's a mighty fine looking build going on there. The front tri setup looks pretty easy to do too. If I decide to build another Hot Rod that info will come in handy.
What are your thought's with radius rod's on a T-Bucket,,, would it be better to go four bar? Not wanting to change at this stage but if I were now would be the time. Of course,,, getting the pan hard worked out would be fun. With the spring over axle, there's been lot's of tinkering going on. This is also the first time I've ever built a Hot Rod. Man the thing's I've learned,,,,, very long thread so we'll leave it to another day ha ha ha. Thanks for the link,,, wish I hade a shop like that to work in too.

As I believe you already know, a four bar does not affect camber as does a hairpin set up. That is the main reason I chose a four bar set up.

Jim

 

[old round fart]

If you want to really simplify the front end put a dead perch on the right side and let the spring be the pan hard bar. John

 

[BRUCE DYDA]

Mike J -- that bent 4 bar set up is WRONG WRONG WRONG, again WRONG

 

[Oldbuilder]

Splain the dead perch thing for me???

 

[BRUCE DYDA]

Suspension(str axle)theory tells us that ONE link for every action you are trying to control. So for that one needs a radious rod on the right side to keep that side fron going foward and back and you need one on the left side to keep that end from going foward and back. You will need just one more (either side) paralell to the other to keep the axle from rotating(maintaining caster). The final link is the track bar (panhard) to keep the axle from going side to side. With this set-up the axle is free to move with zero bind and the only limits are when the frame and/or shocks bottom out. Adding another bar, turning it into a 4-bar will bind because it will restrain the axle from twist as you lift one side. Since we are not rock crawlers with 24" of wheel travel,this non twist can be benificial because of flex and act as a sway bar.

 

[2old2fast]

Jim , I'm sure you meant to say that a 4-link does not affect Caster like a hairpin setup does , camber is set by the axle.

dave

 

[old round fart]

A dead perch takes the place of one shackle (I put it on the right). Google search for dead perch turned up this. Good luck.
http://www.google.com/search?q=dead...pDo-a8wS1yIDICQ&ved=0CCwQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=683