EX JUNK
Moderator
You are correct, Dave. It's hell getting old and having these "senior moments". LOL
Jim
Tri Bar rear setup
- Thread starter Oldbuilder
- Start date
You are correct, Dave. It's hell getting old and having these "senior moments". LOL
Jim
BRUCE DYDA
New Member
With 40" hairpins and a 2" bump the deg of caster change is only 2.6*. Since the bump is only temporary the only real reason to go with 4 bar is because you like the look
You are exactly right. Many years ago, I put some spring clothes pins on the shafts of the front shocks on the Silver bucket. It moved down less than 1" in normal driving.
2old2fast
Active Member
Zandoz , Learn about "sprung weight & spring rating" . X amount of force produces Y amount of movement , then factor in the tires deflection characteristics & the dampener [shocks] effect on all of it . Way above my pay grade , but experience tells me what does what . Best I can do.
dave
How's that for a B.S. answer
dave
How's that for a B.S. answer
seeing that my pay grade is probably a negative number, I was lost at X...LOLZandoz , Learn about "sprung weight & spring rating" . X amount of force produces Y amount of movement , then factor in the tires deflection characteristics & the dampener [shocks] effect on all of it . Way above my pay grade , but experience tells me what does what . Best I can do.
dave
How's that for a B.S. answer
Would that be the same as a 4 bar setup with one bar removed?
Oldbuilder
Member
You guy's are getting way to deep for this south Texas dude,,,, X's and force ratios,,,, think I'll go ride my horse ha ha ha . I guess to make all that go away you could run a-arms,,, but then you'd be out of the hot rod category IMHO. I prefer 4-Bar to Hair pin only because it keeps the axel closer to the same pitch no matter how much travel you get. There is and always will be some for/aft movement from the arc of the system rotating around a center point. Is it enough to cause driving issues,,,, I think not with all the T's & Rod's running the roads. The other difference between 4-bar VS hairpin is the tube doesn't have the twist when one side goes up while the other side stay's at normal ride position. Is it all really a big deal any way's or is it preference.
bigblk1177
Member
I say don't over think these cars. I try to use the K.I.S.S. principal on them. Just build it safe and have fun. They are just fun little cars nothing exotic or space shuttle about them. ENJOY LIFE don't complicate. Just my 2 cents!!!!!
BRUCE DYDA
New Member
Yes, and its the same set-up as 99.9% of all the Sprint cars racing
Oldbuilder
Member
Dude,,, that's cool,, haven't seen one like that,,, but then again I don't get out much,,,, still trying to shed by mushroom appearance ha ha ha ,,, looks like good way to mount a radiator and front shocks. I see the tie rod is in front,,, mine will have to go up front,,, it's toooo close to the frame running in the back between the hairpins,,,
Oldbuilder
Member
Wow,,, that's a very nice exploded view of a frame setup,,,, too cool,,, I see the triangulated 4 bar setup,,,,,, looking at the detail above it looks like the setup is using Chevy spindles, mine are Ford with Chevy rotors, just FYI,,, wish I could get into all the history on this build but I'd be here a while,,, short version,,, a complete rebuild of a purchased project. The only thing I was able to keep is the body. So with that said,,, the original setup was a spring over which is where the party started,,,, it had a Total Performance front axle which someone had welded the steering arm and the lower tie rod bracket to the Chevy spindle,,,, not good,,, after bit of attempting to make it right I gave up and decided to buy a new spindle,,, I talked with the folks at Speedway and supposedly they had one TP spindle left,,, so when I ordered it I also ordered a full brake setup to boot. Well when everything arrived the only part missing was the spindle,,,, then main part,,,, they didn't have one as their inventory showed. So it was all sent back and a complete front axle setup purchased,,, since the original was spring over I was going to stay with that,,, as I got into the frame I found it had been pieced and spliced together so that meant a new frame was going to be built,,, of course it had to go spring over since I already had the front axle setup. If you look at the photo posted, I'm sure you can tell the front spring perch is taller than normal. I did this to try and keep a somewhat normal frame rake/ride height that a spring behind would have,,, and as such the frame is too low for my comfort level to run the tie rod in the back,,, but I'd really like to. This weekend I'll take more photos and maybe you all can pass on some advice,,, problem is I'm not sure how much the frame will drop until I get the motor in which I hope to do this weekend. One idea is to use offset arms,,,, remember I'll be installing a re
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