"Black Dahlia"

[fletcherson]

I had the same results when researching residual valves and opted to install them (purchase for future installation) as a matter of better to have and not need, than the inverse. The low mounted master was the deciding factor for me, being below the wheel cylinders and calipers. I found those fittings at Jegs, in stock at our local store when I was there on another quest. They also had the best overall deal that I could find at the time on a line lock and the fittings that it required, but that was a year or so back.

 

[PaulR]

Looking like progress! Nice shoes!

 

[tfeverfred]

Looking like progress! Nice shoes!

Camo crocks, man!

 

[tfeverfred]

Two of my residual valve fittings arrived today. I purchased some thread sealer and installed the 10 psi valve. Then, I applied thread sealer to all the flare fittings, except for the wheel cylinders, which I'll be replacing later. The other 2 fittings will arrive tomorrow or Friday. Pics forth coming.

 

[fletcherson]

Two of my residual valve fittings arrived today. I purchased some thread sealer and installed the 10 psi valve. Then, I applied thread sealer to all the flare fittings, except for the wheel cylinders, which I'll be replacing later. The other 2 fittings will arrive tomorrow or Friday. Pics forth coming.

Progress is progress.

 

[tfeverfred]

Progress is progress.

Yup! A welcome surprise, the other 2 fittings arrived and are in place. Next up.... I'll replace the wheel cylinders and access the other hardware in the drums.

 

[old round fart]

If that was mine (and I wish it was) I would think about sone kind of bracket to stabilize those valves to prevent vibration work hardening the brake line and cracking them. To much aircraft maintience I guess. Great build Fred.

 

[tfeverfred]

If that was mine (and I wish it was) I would think about sone kind of bracket to stabilize those valves to prevent vibration work hardening the brake line and cracking them. To much aircraft maintience I guess. Great build Fred.

That's a good thought. I may be able to make something coming off the M/C bracket. Everything seems stable, but that was just a jiggle test.

 

[T-Bucket Bob]

Two of my residual valve fittings arrived today. I purchased some thread sealer and installed the 10 psi valve. Then, I applied thread sealer to all the flare fittings, except for the wheel cylinders, which I'll be replacing later. The other 2 fittings will arrive tomorrow or Friday. Pics forth coming.

What type of thread sealer are you using?

 

[tfeverfred]

What type of thread sealer are you using?

Permatex Thread Sealer.

 

[tfeverfred]

If that was mine (and I wish it was) I would think about sone kind of bracket to stabilize those valves to prevent vibration work hardening the brake line and cracking them. To much aircraft maintience I guess. Great build Fred.

Looked at it again today. Everything is good, tight and stable. There are frame clips just before the bends coming off the frame rail. Hidden in the pics. Should be okay. The residual valves are damn near weightless.

 

[Gerry]

If that was mine (and I wish it was) I would think about some kind of bracket to stabilize those valves to prevent vibration work hardening the brake line and cracking them.

Me too. Its not the weight that worries me, its the length of pipe in free space. Course its JMHO.

 

[fletcherson]

Looked at it again today. Everything is good, tight and stable. There are frame clips just before the bends coming off the frame rail. Hidden in the pics. Should be okay. The residual valves are damn near weightless.

Me too. Its not the weight that worries me, its the length of pipe in free space. Course its JMHO.

A coil in the line will negate the stress issue, think factory master cylinder lines... with that being said, the line that he selected is very pliable, not brittle like steel.

 

[tfeverfred]

A coil in the line will negate the stress issue, think factory master cylinder lines... with that being said, the line that he selected is very pliable, not brittle like steel.

That's what I'm thinking. If the lines were 2 or 3 feet, I'd have to secure it somehow. As it is, I think they'll be fine. But I'm still searching the net for similar applications.

 

[tfeverfred]

Looking back at the pics of the rear drum hardware, I decided to get a hard ware kit. It's mainly the springs and clips. I'll remove and clean the brackets and backing plate, when I'm ready. The shoes look okay, but I'll play it safe and get new ones. Hopefully next week.

 

[fletcherson]

Those shoes have a lot of life left in them if they aren't heat checked, ridged, or oil soaked. Pretty cheap to put clean ones on... are the adjusters in good shape? The last hardware kit I bought didn't include them or the wheel cylinder rods that expand the shoes.

 

[tfeverfred]

Those shoes have a lot of life left in them if they aren't heat checked, ridged, or oil soaked. Pretty cheap to put clean ones on... are the adjusters in good shape? The last hardware kit I bought didn't include them or the wheel cylinder rods that expand the shoes.

Yea, the adjusters are good and the wheel cylinder rods look to be in good shape as well. O'Reilly's sells a kit with the adjusters and brackets for $21, but mine were good, so I went with the spring kit for $6.99. I'll get a second opinion on the shoes. New ones are $18.99 a set.

 

[tfeverfred]

Okay.... I talked my brake situation over with a couple gearheads at work and the basic suggestion, since I'm on a budget, was to clean everything up and install the new springs since I already had them. They came over and thought the shoes were good, as well as the wheel cylinders. Later, when I bleed the system, if they leak, THEN I'll replace them.

So, I went at it and knocked it out. I used a wire brush to get the dust out and wiped it down. I skipped painting the brackets because they really didn't need it.

The basic kit from O'Reilly's is color coded, so I matched everything up. I also had pics of how everything goes together. I referenced the pics a lot.

I took my time, played some tunes and was done.

 

[Spanky]

Good job! Working on these little cars is really fun if you go at it the right way. Way to go!!!

 

[tfeverfred]

Good job! Working on these little cars is really fun if you go at it the right way. Way to go!!!

Thanks, Spanky. It had been a while since I'd last done drum brakes. One side took an hour, but the other side took about 30 minutes. At first glance, they looked complicated, for some reason. But having pics was a big help, when it came time to put everything back together. Now, I can use the money saved on wheel cylinders and shoes, to get a set of Speed Bleeders for the front and rear. I'm also going to follow a lead I have and check out some temporary wheels and tires. If all goes well, I may have a roller by weeks end.