Is there a quick and not so messy way to determine what direction the fluid is moving through the hoses?
How can I reduce the coolant temperature?
- Thread starter prairiepegger
- Start date
Is there a quick and not so messy way to determine what direction the fluid is moving through the hoses?
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Not sure but, I have always heard that a behind the radiator/puller fan was the most efficient. Any thoughts on this, anyone? The wrong direction water pump sure sounds suspect. I will be as happy as you, to find out what is the problem. Stay with it.
The stock engine used a serpentine belt. I have not gone to groove belts. Just using a shorter serpentine because I eliminated the AC pulley. The backside of the serpentine is in contact with the smooth surface of water pump pulley.
I did replace the water pump at the same time I replaced the timing chain. Although I remember replacing it with the same direction impeller, the mere fact that I'm still having a problem now challenges my memory. I called Oreilley's Auto Parts and asked them to conduct a search on my historic purchases. Wouldn't you know it, they had everything on file except this purchase. Need to find a way to determine if it's pulling from below without tearing it apart.
What are the possibilities of having another faulty thermostat? Maybe I should remove it altogether.......?
BTW I really appreciate all your help. I feel as if we are all in this together. I hope this site does not shut down.
As easy as it is, I would pull the thermostat. If the engine runs good no missing, you might dismiss a head gasket leak. If it heats up with the thermo out. I would pull the pump. Don't know what else to do. Maybe you can look into the top of the rad and see if the flow is to the top hose or away from it? I cannot think of a way to confirm flow direction.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Pulling fan is more efficient so just get a bigger one.
EX JUNK
Moderator
That is exactly right. Just look at a pusher type and you'll see that it blocks a lot of surface area of the radiator whereas a puller pulls air through the entire surface area of the radiator thereby cooling better.
Jim
2old2fast
Active Member
good way to confirm flow direction is start the engine cold ,let it idle , grab bahold of the hose where it enters the rad. , when the thermostat opens , the upper hose should get HOT immediatly .... don't burn yourself..
dave
my guess is something internal , head gaskts ...water pump .. the rad. probably fine as is the fan , albeit a little small & no shroud..
dave
my guess is something internal , head gaskts ...water pump .. the rad. probably fine as is the fan , albeit a little small & no shroud..
I didn't read your comments until now. Unfortunately I already removed the thermostat. I'm going to let the RTV dry a little more and then I will try it.
Wait, I think I still can accomplish the same thing. What if I remove the top hose (portion leading to the thermostat housing) and start the engine? I would have someone hold the hose in a bucket. I should know immediately which direction the water flows.... correct?
We're getting way ahead of ourselves. 1) Pull the thermostat and see if that fixes it. If so, it's time for a new thermostat. 2) Timing. Until you know your timing you are spinning your wheels. Find TDC, use the timing light and let us know. Retarded timing is a common reason for overheating.
Okay. The engine overheated without the thermostat. I measured temps of top and bottom hoses and saw a 45-50 deg difference at relatively the same distance from the rad. Bottom hose was cooler. I'm thinking it should be the other way. The rad fins at the bottom of the rad also showed the same temp disparity. I can't tell exactly what the timing is because there is no pointer reference, but it is IMHO advanced. If I move it an extra 2 deg it starts missing and won't start.
I will try to determine flow next. Thanks to all for the feedback.
The top of the rad tank has developed a pin hole.
Prairie, the hot water goes into the top of the radiator and gets cooled, so the bottom hose will be cooler. And timing info (initial, speed and vacuum) is fundamental to engine diagnosis. It's like the first things a doctor does: takes your temp, your blood pressure and pulse. Only they do they start poking around. You gotta find TDC and nail your numbers.
And just to make sure: this is a 1999 302 ford motor, with a carb and a HEI dist? It originally had EFI, right? You replaced that with a carb. What became of the ECU and all the junk associated with EFI? You must have replumbed the fuel system, right? I'm wondering if the conversion has something to do with your problem. But first: timing!
And just to make sure: this is a 1999 302 ford motor, with a carb and a HEI dist? It originally had EFI, right? You replaced that with a carb. What became of the ECU and all the junk associated with EFI? You must have replumbed the fuel system, right? I'm wondering if the conversion has something to do with your problem. But first: timing!
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I'm a Chevy guy, but you do know that to advance Ford timing you turn the dist clockwise, right? I've seen better men than me go the wrong way.
Hi PotvinGuy
Yes, I am turning the distributor clockwise to advance. Vacuum is roughly 20 inches @ 750 rpm in park and 20 inches @ 650 in drive
Potvin
I always thought that an engine was fed coolant through the top. So if understand correctly, the pump in this case should pull from the bottom of the rad and move it through the engine core and out through the top hose.. correct?
This would explain why the flow was towards the top of the rad when I tried to determine flow direction tonight. I also removed the pump and confirmed it to be a reverse pump for serpentine belts.
Correct, it is a 1999 5.0 liter motor with carb and HEI distributor. It did originally have efi and I replaced it with a carb- 600 holley. I still have the ECU and the rest of the stuff. Yes, I have plumbed a fuel system and using an electric fuel delivery system.
I'll now need to get my rad fixed and replace the water pump now that it's out . I realized tonight that it is still the original; I did not replace as I originally thought. Could I have a problem with the radiator? Does 1 3/4 gallons of radiator fluid seem like enough fluid to cool the system? is it possible the rad may be defective with pockets of areas when its not holding fluid for one reason or another?
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
7 quarts seems a bit light. Hard to guess how much it should hold, not knowing radiator capacity. Any way to contact radiator mfg. to find out? 5.0 engine in most apps, shows around 12/14 quarts, but that is with stock radiators, heater core,etc. Maybe I missed it, but what car did this engine come out of?
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