Engine came out of a 1999 Explorer.
How can I reduce the coolant temperature?
- Thread starter prairiepegger
- Start date
Engine came out of a 1999 Explorer.
That sounds real low. My SBC holds 3-1/2, twice yours. Now that is the whole system: radiator, engine, hoses. But I don't know Fords at all. Any Ford guys out there?
And I don't understand the reverse flow pump; can someone elaborate?
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I think it is being confused with a real reverse pump, that is used in a reverse flow system. In this case it is simply because the serpentine belt routing runs the pump in the opposite direction of a v-belt pump. On my chevy's all fans turn clockwise with the v-belt. On a serpentine usually they turn counter clockwise. Seems like most serpentine belts run under the pulley instead of on top like a v-belt pulley. Make any sense?
Thank you, Choppedtop! Hey, an old dog learns a new trick! So the flow thru the motor and radiator is not reversed, it's just the pump needs to turn the other way because of the belt system.
Still don't know what is bedeviling Prairie. I'm running out of ideas. If it's not timing, what's left?
Still don't know what is bedeviling Prairie. I'm running out of ideas. If it's not timing, what's left?
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Yep, that is the way I see it. I would like to see a photo of the front of the engine just for grins. Betting it is something simple. Those things kill ya. How much would the timing have to be off to cause that much overheating? Could a slipped timing chain cause this? Can hardly wait to find out what is the problem.
Boy, I don't know, but I imagine a lot of retard. Another check is to look at the pipes in the dark. If they're glowing you are definitely way retarded. When I was young and ignorant I burned up a new set of chrome Sandersons before I knew to check the timing. Gotta have TDC to get numbers. And that new HEI makes me uneasy. Don't know what the speed and vacuum advance are set at. And aftermarket HEI's have a rep for being buggy.
Be sure to check the gaskets on the timing cover. Ford has 6 different timing covers for the 302/351. The water pump holes are in the same area, but shaped different. If you have had the timing high enough to kick back when starting and then back down, you should be close for base timing. Hopefully your mechanical and vacuum is not throwing too much in after the engine is started. Put a mark on balancer, with the #1 piston as close to TDC as you can with the thumb on the plug hole method. If you can get some timing tape it will help determine what is going on. You can use a piston stop that uses the #1 plug hole and get TDC for sure.
I am beginning to think the rad may not be right. If it is brass and you are going to use a rad shop to fix the leak, let them pull the top tank and check it.
I am beginning to think the rad may not be right. If it is brass and you are going to use a rad shop to fix the leak, let them pull the top tank and check it.
I purchased a new water pump even though it looked good. I checked for blockages but did not detect any. The radiator, transmission cooling lines, engine accessories and brackets have been removed. I called Ron Pope this morning and ordered an aluminum radiator that mimics the '66 mustang specifications. A shroud will be added and furbished with a bigger fan.
I pondered some of my earlier decisions during the build last night and in hindsight I should have fixed one of them. One of them was the brass radiator outlet location. Not sure if this is contributing to the overheating issue but the radiator in question has the bottom hose port on the passenger side. The engine pump inlet is on the driver's side. I had to piece two hose sections to a radius'd steel pipe section to make it work. As you may imagine the hose looks real "snaky". Again, not sure if this extra travel and articulated bend is causing the cooling system to be less effective but for the life of me I cant understand why the cooler (150 F) fluid at the bottom of the rad isn't cooling the engine. In any event, the new radiator will have the bottom outlet on the correct side.
I've always been a proponent of making one change at a time to determine root cause but in this case things are moving in a direction where more than one issue needs to be addressed at the same time.
Not sure that I can do anything else until the rad arrives next week. If there is anything you think I ought to investigate in the meantime, please let me know.
Thanks
I pondered some of my earlier decisions during the build last night and in hindsight I should have fixed one of them. One of them was the brass radiator outlet location. Not sure if this is contributing to the overheating issue but the radiator in question has the bottom hose port on the passenger side. The engine pump inlet is on the driver's side. I had to piece two hose sections to a radius'd steel pipe section to make it work. As you may imagine the hose looks real "snaky". Again, not sure if this extra travel and articulated bend is causing the cooling system to be less effective but for the life of me I cant understand why the cooler (150 F) fluid at the bottom of the rad isn't cooling the engine. In any event, the new radiator will have the bottom outlet on the correct side.
I've always been a proponent of making one change at a time to determine root cause but in this case things are moving in a direction where more than one issue needs to be addressed at the same time.
Not sure that I can do anything else until the rad arrives next week. If there is anything you think I ought to investigate in the meantime, please let me know.
Thanks
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Have you taken the top hose loose to verify that the water is in fact pumping out that hose with the engine running? Don't think you would need to take it all the way off, just loosen the clamps, leave cap on tight. You should get a spray around the hose. Ya, I know, still guessing with you.
Lee
Lee
Yes. I did this last night. I attached a longer hose to the thermostat housing and directed the other end in a bucket. The fluid came through when I accelerated. It did not seem to move it until I accelerated to 1200 rpms. This test was done with the thermostat removed. This is when I made the decision to remove the pump and replace it regardless of condition. I expected flow at idle especially without a thermostat.
Yes. This was an older picture. I now have a vacuum hose attached to the advance
roadmonster
Member
If you removed the a/c pulley you probably changed the contact patch on the wp and the belt may be slipping. A serpentine requires a certain amount of "wrap-around" for the pulley to work properly. If it used to wrap around, say 90 degrees, and now just runs alongside the pulley, it will slip. Visualize your original belt run and see how much contact you have lost.
Misunderstanding on the pusher fan thing. When you said pulling from the front, I imagined puller fan on front of radiator.
Misunderstanding on the pusher fan thing. When you said pulling from the front, I imagined puller fan on front of radiator.
I had approximately 1/3 wrap when reconfigured without the a/c and power steering. I since have added the power steering pulley and achieved almost 90 degrees. Certainly more contact but no difference in coolant temp
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Yes. I did this last night. I attached a longer hose to the thermostat housing and directed the other end in a bucket.
Ok, glad that part seems to be working, but I would think there would be flow at an idle. Anyone know for sure? Think it is time to call Sherlock Holmes.
Ok, glad that part seems to be working, but I would think there would be flow at an idle. Anyone know for sure? Think it is time to call Sherlock Holmes.
The motor was not rebuilt. Just another thought, this might sound strange but I'm thinking about a primed system vs one that is not..... Is it possible to have air pockets in the system? If so, is a water pump effective enough at generating vacuum to pull it and allow it "burp" out? Still thinking about the fact that fluid wasn't moving at idle.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Just for the heck of it, take a look at this. It will answer one question for us.
Just trying to confirm one problem at a time.
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