How I scratch built a Modern T
- Thread starter Tbuilder
- Start date
Tbuilder
Active Member
Now that the chassis is completed we can do the final fitting and installing of all the glass body parts, starting with the splash pans and running boards. Here I have built the brackets to hold the running boards, the fenders and splash pans will also bolt to these brackets.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
That looks like model A apron.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Tbuilder
Active Member
Those look like they are from the earlier Model Ts, 1918 and older. They are quite a bit shorter than the newer ones.
Tbuilder
Active Member
The next step is to fit and bolt the front and rear fenders to the running boards and the frame. I made a mount from some steel tube that attaches to the shock mount stands and bolts to the front fenders. The fenders had a place for a plate to bolt to that holds them to the tube mount. I reinforced the inside of the fender where the bolts go through with some aluminum sheet glassed in place. The roads here can be rough and vibration is a killer for fiberglass body parts.
I also made a similar tube mount for the rear that bolts to the frame and the rear fender. Do not have a pic of it.
At the same time I made a small splash pan to cover the area in front of the rad.
I also made a similar tube mount for the rear that bolts to the frame and the rear fender. Do not have a pic of it.
At the same time I made a small splash pan to cover the area in front of the rad.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Moving right along and looking good.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Clecos. I like it.
Tbuilder
Active Member
I mounted the trunk lid with the exposed hinges from Speedway. They were easy to install and work well. I bought a latch assembly for a pickup truck cap back window from the local auto parts store for the trunk lid. It looked good, Model T style.
There ends up being a large gap between the rear fenders and the T bucket and turtle deck so I had to make a couple of small splash pans to fit between the fender liner and the body. For simple structures I usually make a form out of sheet aluminum, shape it as needed, give it a coat of mold release and layup the fiberglass on it. By using the face against the aluminum as the exposed surface it comes out very smooth except for the numerous pin holes that are caused by not spending enough time to work the air bubbles out.
There ends up being a large gap between the rear fenders and the T bucket and turtle deck so I had to make a couple of small splash pans to fit between the fender liner and the body. For simple structures I usually make a form out of sheet aluminum, shape it as needed, give it a coat of mold release and layup the fiberglass on it. By using the face against the aluminum as the exposed surface it comes out very smooth except for the numerous pin holes that are caused by not spending enough time to work the air bubbles out.
Tbuilder
Active Member
I wanted a hood over my engine as I think a car does not look complete without a hood on it. The hood supplied by Speedway was not going to fit as it was too short. My grille shell is a little bit farther from the firewall than where it would be on a normal T. I like a longer hood as it looks sleeker, if one can call anything about a T as being sleek.
To make a mold for the hood I made a framework out of some scrap plywood. I cut out the plywood on each end to the shape of the firewall and the grille shell. Since this is going to be a female mold I allowed about an eighth of an inch extra in the cut out for the aluminum sheet and fiberglass layup. I then nailed some ply sheeting between the ends to hold them together. I removed the frame, turned it over and nailed in two more strips along the edges to hold the sides in place.
To make a mold for the hood I made a framework out of some scrap plywood. I cut out the plywood on each end to the shape of the firewall and the grille shell. Since this is going to be a female mold I allowed about an eighth of an inch extra in the cut out for the aluminum sheet and fiberglass layup. I then nailed some ply sheeting between the ends to hold them together. I removed the frame, turned it over and nailed in two more strips along the edges to hold the sides in place.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Nice!
Tbuilder
Active Member
I bent some aluminum sheet to fit inside the frame and made a 90 deg bend in the edges to give the hood edge some strength. I coated the aluminum sheet with mold release agent then layed up five layers of fiberglass mat and cloth inside it. I usually use mat on the inside and outside layer with the cloth between them. I think this give a smoother more easily finished surface.
Tbuilder
Active Member
