tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Looks great, Keeper! At least they go back together quicker the second time around.
Keepers build
- Thread starter Keeper
- Start date
Keeper
Active Member
Its ALIVE, (again) or would that be Its Alive II?
Back together, had a few glitches and still a couple things left to do, but it runs and drives again.
You can really tell the difference between the 2.88 and the 3.53.
Still have to make some rearview mirror mounts, remount the ebrake and recover the dash.
That and it really needs an alignment.
Back together, had a few glitches and still a couple things left to do, but it runs and drives again.
You can really tell the difference between the 2.88 and the 3.53.
Still have to make some rearview mirror mounts, remount the ebrake and recover the dash.
That and it really needs an alignment.
Keeper
Active Member
So I FINALLY got my dash finished. I was stuck trying to figure out how to cover the gauge pod I had created, originally it was a steel cover, but the damn thing would not fit! I was just going to mount it and drive it with the wires exposed, but it bugged the hell out of me seeing them all the time.
Anyway so it turned out I was making things way more complicated then I needed to, but I guess thats what happens when you are just learning a skill. So here are the results:
I still need to mount it thats what all the holes are.
All the small holes in the gauge cluster are for the turn signal, and idiot light assembly.
Also made up some rear view mirror mounts, I could not find any that I liked and these were basically free with about 45 minutes work. They just clamp to the posts so I can move them around where they will work best for me.
All in all a good weekend, now I just need to fix the damn oil leak that popped back up....grrrrr
Anyway so it turned out I was making things way more complicated then I needed to, but I guess thats what happens when you are just learning a skill. So here are the results:
I still need to mount it thats what all the holes are.
All the small holes in the gauge cluster are for the turn signal, and idiot light assembly.
Also made up some rear view mirror mounts, I could not find any that I liked and these were basically free with about 45 minutes work. They just clamp to the posts so I can move them around where they will work best for me.
All in all a good weekend, now I just need to fix the damn oil leak that popped back up....grrrrr
Keeper
Active Member
So when I had the engine out, I had thought I had tracked down the oil leak to the intake gasket. So while I had the engine out I did not pull the oil pan, thinking "Why waste a perfectly good gasket"....well turns out to be a rookie mistake.
The damn rear main is leaking....good thing pulling the pan will be pretty easy to do. So tomorrow its off to the parts store for a 1 piece oil pan gasket.
The damn rear main is leaking....good thing pulling the pan will be pretty easy to do. So tomorrow its off to the parts store for a 1 piece oil pan gasket.
I love how you've integrated the Dakota Digital pod. Very sleek, and it keeps the Chevy theme nicely.
Keeper
Active Member
Thanks, but its not a digital panel. The gauges are from New Vintage USA. Here are pics of them.
Very nice. The shape is very much like an original 55-56 Chev bezel. so I mistakenly assumed it was a repro cluster.
Keeper
Active Member
So I finally fixed my oil leaks.
I used the rubber/cork gaskets that came with the original kit. When I installed them I used some rtv on the end seals....a big nono it seems.
Anyway I needed to fix the pan leak. So I bought a 1 piece fel-pro gasket. While I had the pan off I did some more inspecting and noticed the rear main was seeping. So off comes the rear main cap, to find some dumb ass (yeah it was me) had installed the seal backward, not sure how I managed that one, but its sorted out now and no more leaks.
I used the rubber/cork gaskets that came with the original kit. When I installed them I used some rtv on the end seals....a big nono it seems.
Anyway I needed to fix the pan leak. So I bought a 1 piece fel-pro gasket. While I had the pan off I did some more inspecting and noticed the rear main was seeping. So off comes the rear main cap, to find some dumb ass (yeah it was me) had installed the seal backward, not sure how I managed that one, but its sorted out now and no more leaks.
Keeper
Active Member
Alright I finally got some current pics of the work I have done over the last month or so.
Here we go, side shot, I added caps and rings to the wheels:
New gauge pod:
I did not like the look of the unfinished bed so I made some panels up to match the interior:
Rebuilt the rearend, new lighter springs/shocks, new hubs and bearings and painted it:
Relocated the rad filler neck so I could actually get to it, as originally it was under the shell. I still need to find a rad shell topper for it. Also painted the engine/trans.
All that is left now if final body work and paint, but that can wait until the fall/winter
Here we go, side shot, I added caps and rings to the wheels:
New gauge pod:
I did not like the look of the unfinished bed so I made some panels up to match the interior:
Rebuilt the rearend, new lighter springs/shocks, new hubs and bearings and painted it:
Relocated the rad filler neck so I could actually get to it, as originally it was under the shell. I still need to find a rad shell topper for it. Also painted the engine/trans.
All that is left now if final body work and paint, but that can wait until the fall/winter
Keeper
Active Member
Thanks!
The gauge pod is scratch built. I started with wood templates to get the shape/spacing right then moved to metal and vinyl, based off a tri-five chevy pod, but I made mine to match the steering wheel contour. Just follows with my Chevy theme through out the build. If you click through the photo albums in my sig there are a bunch of pics of the process.
The gauge pod is scratch built. I started with wood templates to get the shape/spacing right then moved to metal and vinyl, based off a tri-five chevy pod, but I made mine to match the steering wheel contour. Just follows with my Chevy theme through out the build. If you click through the photo albums in my sig there are a bunch of pics of the process.
Keeper
Active Member
Thanks guys.
Its not as close as it looks, there is about 3/4 of an inch between the header and the top of the box. I can get some pics if you still need better idea of the setup. Personally I would like at least 1/2 inch between the two.
Its not as close as it looks, there is about 3/4 of an inch between the header and the top of the box. I can get some pics if you still need better idea of the setup. Personally I would like at least 1/2 inch between the two.
Ya, couple of pics would be great.
Keeper
Active Member
Okay here is a close up. I used the CCR plans when I built the brackets, just make sure you have the engine/headers installed before you weld things up. First time I placed it, it smacked the headers when I bolted them on. Luckily it was only tacked in at the time so it was easy to move!
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