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Keepers build

So I finished mounting the brake setup today. Of course I forgot pictures along the way, so here are the results:

13%20Feb%202011%20001.JPG_595.jpg


I mounted it as far forward as I could. The kick panel there will be made much smaller, this is only the test piece.

I have full travel with no binding and have some room to spare.

13%20Feb%202011%20004.JPG_595.jpg


You cannot see it here, but the pedal tab there is about 1/4 proud of the kick panel there. (I took off my big work boots to check the placement!)

I mounted the unit to the frame with 3 3/8 grade 8 bolts. There is also a 5/8 bolt that runs through the frame and is used as the pedal pivot.

Only thing I have left to do is drill and tap the tube the pedal pivots on for a grease fitting. Well that and find a pedal!
 
I like the toe board. If you shorten it a bit you might not have to relieve it for your pedal travel. For the pedal, check with an old Ford parts house and get one for a '35 to '48 Ford. Weld a piece of tubing to the side of the arm and thread the pedal pad into it. Speedway has them too, pn#910-31200.

Ron
 
Youngster said:
I like the toe board. If you shorten it a bit you might not have to relieve it for your pedal travel. For the pedal, check with an old Ford parts house and get one for a '35 to '48 Ford. Weld a piece of tubing to the side of the arm and thread the pedal pad into it. Speedway has them too, pn#910-31200.

Ron
Click to expand...

Thanks I will look those up.

I plan on shortening the toe board to the bottom of the steering column about an inch. Then I will move it forward a touch as well. I will have to have the relief cuts either way, but I am okay with that I already have ideas on how to hide it.
 
I tell you the biggest thing I had issues with for the brake setup was drilling the damn holes!

I tried using a square, a level, an angle gauge and I still had the holes go off center! Luckily I drilled them all with the unit clamped to the frame so they matched up. At least the outside holes are lined up...lol
 
Drilling holes through the frame, they need a tube welded into the frame anyway, so, if you are off a tad, put the bolts through the tubes and into the master or whatever you are bolting to the frame, and they will then be lined up perfect, then tack weld the tubes in place, take it all apart and finish welding the tubes in on both sides of the frame, the weld will fill any gaps you may have gotten from off center drilling, no biggy... :)
 
If you did not want such a long slit in your floor, you could cut a wedge out of the pedal, just about the pivot point, in the front, about 3/4 of the way through the pedal, bend the top part of that pedal forward, so it is just below your toe board, as you call it, then make another curved piece to weld to the end of that, now short pedal, the curve should match the ark that the pedal travels when pushing it into your master... You may even want to make that bottom part a bit longer to increase the leverage, as that looks like it could be a large bore master? 1" or more? Now you can do a bolt on pedal pad to keep the hole in the toe board small... Some weld a 1/2" NF nut to the top end of that last curved piece... this way a stock Ford pedal pad would just screw into that nut... use a longer nut, like a lug nut... Yo ucan now also weld a cross bar to the front of your big box tubing that the whole unit rides in, this will give you a stop so the pedal does not pull out of the master too far... There are many different sized stock pedal pads you could use, and each mount differently... Just a thought, as this should get your final foot pad closer to the firewall also... BTDT :)
 
Ted Brown said:
If you did not want such a long slit in your floor, you could cut a wedge out of the pedal, just about the pivot point, in the front, about 3/4 of the way through the pedal, bend the top part of that pedal forward, so it is just below your toe board, as you call it, then make another curved piece to weld to the end of that, now short pedal, the curve should match the ark that the pedal travels when pushing it into your master... You may even want to make that bottom part a bit longer to increase the leverage, as that looks like it could be a large bore master? 1" or more? Now you can do a bolt on pedal pad to keep the hole in the toe board small... Some weld a 1/2" NF nut to the top end of that last curved piece... this way a stock Ford pedal pad would just screw into that nut... use a longer nut, like a lug nut... Yo ucan now also weld a cross bar to the front of your big box tubing that the whole unit rides in, this will give you a stop so the pedal does not pull out of the master too far... There are many different sized stock pedal pads you could use, and each mount differently... Just a thought, as this should get your final foot pad closer to the firewall also... BTDT :)
Click to expand...

Thanks.

That toe board will be smaller so the slot will not be that big.

Its a 1 inch bore master cylinder, the ratio right now is 6.33 to 1. The pedal cannot pull the plunger out now as the clevis will not fit through the slot I cut for the pedal clearance.

12%20Feb%202011%20011.JPG_595.jpg


I like the idea of welding a bolt to the end of the pedal so I can screw the pedal on.

Right now with the pedal fully depressed I have 1 inch to the firewall, when I put the 3/4 ply on the firewall that will make that clearance 1/4. Thats as close as I want.
 
I still have about 1/2 inch of plunger rod travel to play with. So instead of the pedal standing straight up as it does in the pics, I can have the top move toward the firewall about 2 inches.

I tried to make it fairly adjustable so I can play with it to make it work.
 
Ted Brown said:
I believe the travel of the plunger is only 3/4" in... If your pedal is moving that much, how much length do you have from the main pivot to the plunger push pin? lower arm...
Click to expand...

From the pin to the master cylinder is about 3 inches. The plunger rod itself goes inside the master 1.75 inches, the pedal cannot travel far enough to pull it out of the master.

Hopefully this pic will help:
12%20Feb%202011%20006.JPG_595.jpg



Yeah that clevis will be replaced. It is the only one I could find locally to use for mock up. Fastenal, Brofastco, Graingers, no one had a clevis.
 
Looks like a dual disc master these do have a little more stroke due to the fluid capacity I believe.
 
hang on guys.
I had the same thing with my front brakes. When the system is charged with fluid, the pedal travel comes back to very little. Doing all this on a dry system seems weird. If you get full travel with the system charged with fluid there is a problem... surely?
My pedal only moves 3/4'' now its all up and running. Thats without adjusting the push rod to give the minimum travel without any residual pressure.
Just my thoughts
Gerry
 
Well when things are all full, I sure as hell hope I do not have full travel! I am really only expecting 1-2 inches of movement.

I am just planning for the worst case, I do not want to ever hit the floor with the pedal before the plunger bottoms out.
 
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