Keepers build

[Ted Brown]

From the pin to the master cylinder is about 3 inches. The plunger rod itself goes inside the master 1.75 inches, the pedal cannot travel far enough to pull it out of the master.

Hopefully this pic will help:

Yeah that clevis will be replaced. It is the only one I could find locally to use for mock up. Fastenal, Brofastco, Graingers, no one had a clevis.

Here is the scoop on that master from a man in the know... They are designed to have a travel of 3/4" to 1" MAX. The secondary cup on the primary piston IS NOT designed to go past the compensating port...if it does, it will chafe itself on the compensating port and you will have a master cylinder that leaks backwards out the rear. Incidentally, that is a 1 1/8 bore Corvette Master Cylinder in the pic and WILL NOT work very well in a non assisted application. Look at a Corvette sometime...they have an 11" dual diaphragm booster.

 

[Keeper]

hehe okay lets back things up here to clear up some confusion:

The master cylinder I am using is a Corvette 4 wheel MANUAL disc setup. It has a 1 inch bore.

The plunger can be pushed a total of 1 inch inside with a dry master cylinder.

The plunger rod "cup" on the master cylinder is 1 3/4 inches deep.

The plunger rod I am using is a total of 3 3/4 inches long. (leaving 2 inches exposed outside the master cylinder)

The clevis is 2 1/2 inches long.

 

[Ted Brown]

I would ad double locking nuts and a larger strong flat washer to that push rod, so that it will not travel into that cyl, any more than 7/8" IMHO and now the bottom of your brake pedal can be made shorter to give more leverage... 3 inches is way too long, no leverage that way...

 

[Keeper]

I would ad double locking nuts and a larger strong flat washer to that push rod, so that it will not travel into that cyl, any more than 7/8" IMHO and now the bottom of your brake pedal can be made shorter to give more leverage... 3 inches is way too long, no leverage that way...

From the center of the pedal arm pivot to the center of the clevis pin is 1.5 inches. Not sure where the 3 inches came from.

I will look into adding a stop washer to limit the travel, I should have the room to do that without running into anything.

 

[Keeper]

Today I started making my windshield posts. I thought about buying them, but figured why not trying and make some first. There is still work to be done as I am still debating how I want to attach the glass.

Of course I did not take any pictures of the progress, maybe I will remember when I try and make the matching one.

I still have some shaping to do one the front. Still up in the air on the shape I want.

I left the posts long as this will help me make the matching posts with the same angles.

I settled on 25 degrees of windshield slant as that gives me room for the steering wheel at the up position.

And my helper checking my work:

Was a whole lot of weld, grind, weld grind, weld, grind, weld, sand....my ears are still ringing.

It will be fun trying to make the matching piece tomorrow.

 

[one finger john]

Please remember to show the pre-welded pieces. Thanx

 

[Keeper]

Please remember to show the pre-welded pieces. Thanx

I will try! Its actually only 3 pieces so far.

The tube.
The rear (inside) plate is just bent at 90degrees to go over the front.
The outside piece. This is the toughest to form as I used 3/16 plate a vise and some "gentle" persuasion with a 32oz ballpeen.

 

[VegasBruce]

Nice

 

[Youngster]

As I said before, the worst part of building a set of posts is getting started. Keeper, you're doing an awesome job!

Ron

 

[Keeper]

As I said before, the worst part of building a set of posts is getting started. Keeper, you're doing an awesome job!

Ron

Thanks!

 

[Keeper]

Okay today I made the match to my post. Well a pretty close match, still some tweaking to be done. So I attempted to document the steps as I went.

Here goes:

Items I used in construction:

10 gauge plate for the front/side plate.
1/8 plate for the inside/top plate.
1 inch, 1/8 wall DOM for the post.

First up mark/cut/bend the side plate:

Here are the things I used to bend things up. Well these and a No 5 Record vise.

Doing this for the 2nd time made things a little quicker. Just takes 2 bends to get things close.

Once I was satisfied with the fit, it was time for the back plate:

One bend and some trim work:

Next was to weld/grind until I was happy:

This was/is my best friend during this process:

TBC

 

[Keeper]

Then became the fun task of matching the two. Working alone you get creative when you need more hands. So some angle iron and a bunch of clamps helped during this phase.

The hardest part of the whole process was lining things up. I mistaken posted earlier that I set the angle at 25 degrees, I meant 15 degrees. Anyway more clamps and I finally got it right:

Then came a whole lot of fill welding and grinding to get me to here:

Yes I am aware the one on the left is a bit bigger, its also a bit taller, as I need to trim things to match.

I am still up in the air as to how I am going to attach the windshield. I have a couple of ideas, just have to see if I can make them work.

 

[Youngster]

This is going to be one very sweet T with all the handmade parts and the Jag bum! Be proud my friend.

Ron

 

[one finger john]

Neat.

 

[Keeper]

Thanks, but its more because I am a cheap ass...lol

I was thinking of using 3/4 solid stock for the windshield frame. I would have to get a slot milled for the glass. I was thinking I could cut a slot in the posts I made and slide the frame inside, then make a cap on top of the posts to hold everything in.

 

[Youngster]

Are you talking solid steel? If so, I would be concerned about all that weight flapping in the breeze. Maybe aluminum would be better. you might consider atube across the bottom between the posts too. I think you said you didn't want a tube on top. Some suport at the cowl would be nice in that case. JMO

Ron

Oh ... and there's nothing wrong with being a cheap ass, from one to another!!!!!

 

[Ted Brown]

Cheap ass, I fit in that group, could not of had a T Bucket any other way, plus I am fussy, so you have to do it yourself... As far as that set of posts, now you have to cut the inside half of those tubes away, and see if a stock type windshield frame will fit in the tubes... and like you said, a top cap should hold the frames and glass in place... If you get the top works very heavy, it may want to tare things up, (lots of leverage working against you) the glass itself is plenty heavy enough... lookin good so far.

 

[putz]

I think this part of the build should definitely be in the tech department for future use. Great job keeper. Any way to list this under windshield frame build Mike in tech?

 

[Keeper]

Are you talking solid steel? If so, I would be concerned about all that weight flapping in the breeze. Maybe aluminum would be better. you might consider atube across the bottom between the posts too. I think you said you didn't want a tube on top. Some suport at the cowl would be nice in that case. JMO

Ron

Oh ... and there's nothing wrong with being a cheap ass, from one to another!!!!!

Yes I would use aluminum. I was thinking I would use the two sides and a bottom piece. If I measured correctly the 3/4 should slide right in.

 

[Gerry]

Cool stuff. A man after my own heart. Make it, fir it and smile at it
Gerry