My ProjecTee
- Thread starter DonnyRay
- Start date
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Hi indycars ; I have 2 of those tools. Locating them is another story. However ; I have NO problem locating Lowes. I grab some snacks & visit with the employes. I enjoy going to Lowes. So , there's NO problem here. I go to a restaurant every morning & i eat my breakfast. I scout around for parts , i run errands for Leroy ( the shop owner). All of these trips i make , help break up my otherwise boring existence.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
The length of the steering gear housing is extremely important. I have a great fitment with the Chevy Cobalt's steering assembly. I'm going to see if my Honda Del Sol's R&P inner tie rods will fit my Chevy R&P's steering gear housing. The Chevy Cobalt's inner tie rods are too long. The Honda Del Sol's inner tie rods are shorter. I may have to use the Honda's gaiters also. I'll have to purchase a banding tool when i put everything back together.
My first T had conventional box/drag link steering. My current T has R&P. The only big difference was steering effort; R&P is like power steering compared to conventional steering. R&P is very light and easy. But R&P has a downside: the connection between the road wheels and the steering wheel works both ways equally. So every bump in the road is transmitted right to the steering wheel. Hard on the wrists. And the control of the box is gone, so the road wheels move freely with every bump, which can be scary. The solution is one or more steering dampers. I use a pair of motorcycle dampers: 
...the black cylinder. Mounts to the batwing. One on each wheel. There are many other dampers, like this one sold by speedway.
...the black cylinder. Mounts to the batwing. One on each wheel. There are many other dampers, like this one sold by speedway.
You will want to check the stroke on any damper to see how far you can turn the wheel in both directions. Most automotive dampers are sold for a particular vehicle and the description won't have stroke or body length, so you have to ask. And then decide where to mount the damper considering the stroke and other parts in the way. This is why we get the big bucks, right?
Here is the latest damper I bought. It has a 5" stroke, which will give you 2.5" in each direction. It came with the mounting bracket even tho the listing said it didn't. I haven't installed it yet, but it will give me more wheel turning than the present damper which has only 2" in each direction.
Here is the latest damper I bought. It has a 5" stroke, which will give you 2.5" in each direction. It came with the mounting bracket even tho the listing said it didn't. I haven't installed it yet, but it will give me more wheel turning than the present damper which has only 2" in each direction.
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What's a half rack? Got a pic? Oh, the Unisteer! Very interesting. Does the steering column bolt directly to the unit? Plenty of turning at the wheels? Does the unit move a drag link or a cross link or how does it all go together?
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LongJohn
Active Member
I have a Unisteer unit. I haven’t driven it yet but I think it’s 3 1/2 turns lock to lock and designed fir 6” steering arms. My wheels turn about 38 degrees each way if I remember right. It’s the same as Ricks bucket. With the bell crank I can change the ratio fi I need to.
lincolnuT
Well-Known Member
Yes about 3.5 turns lock and steers very smooth.......It hooks right up to the steering shaft these photos should make that clear. I hooks to the same place as the drag link.........
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lincolnuT
Well-Known Member
Yes it is a side mount. I can take some diffrent angles if you want/need but it just goes down and hooks up just like the drag link does to the steering side of the front end.....Try it you will like it............
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DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Here's an update on the shortening of my inner tie rods :
The lower tie rod on the top has been separated to show it's inner core. The inner core & the left side of the lower tie rod are machine cut from one solid piece. The threaded side of the top lower tie rod was drilled through it's center. The 2 lower tie rod halves are pressed together. The lower tie rod will then be welded. I am very impressed with Geiger Manufacture's work. I'll be using them again in the future. I removed the 2 steering rods & welded the 5/8" holes solid. I smoothed out the welded areas with a 40 grit flappy disc. Then i re-drilled the steering arms with a 9/16" drill bit (14mm). In other words , the original holes were 1/8" too big to fit my heim joints. I'm supposed to pick up my R&P assembly on Tuesday 1-10-23.
The lower tie rod on the top has been separated to show it's inner core. The inner core & the left side of the lower tie rod are machine cut from one solid piece. The threaded side of the top lower tie rod was drilled through it's center. The 2 lower tie rod halves are pressed together. The lower tie rod will then be welded. I am very impressed with Geiger Manufacture's work. I'll be using them again in the future. I removed the 2 steering rods & welded the 5/8" holes solid. I smoothed out the welded areas with a 40 grit flappy disc. Then i re-drilled the steering arms with a 9/16" drill bit (14mm). In other words , the original holes were 1/8" too big to fit my heim joints. I'm supposed to pick up my R&P assembly on Tuesday 1-10-23.
AltBantam
Active Member
Thanks. Will you post a photo of the front where the unisteer mounts to the spindle?
