Torque Converter Selection?

[Swampdog]

I put a Blueprint 350 engine in my T bucket. I have a Turbo 350 with (I beleive) stock stall torque converter.
I definately need a high stall as the car wants to die when you put it into gear at a 750 idle. and wants to drag the car really bad. The cam is .486 lift with 229*/230* degrees at .050 lift. It's power range is listed at 1200-5400 RPM.
I'm looking at Speedway Converters: one is listed as 2000-2200 Stall and one is 2200-2600 Stall. I have 3.25 Gears and 15X15X15.5 tires and the bucket weights 2000 pounds.

Thoughts and recomendations.

Swampdog

 

[409T]

You will get everything from stock to 3500 rpm for this one. I am in the 3000 - 3200 rpm faction, but I also don't like to run gears any taller than 3.70 or so. Don't forget that if you're trying to harness "creep", braking comes into play as well. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Golly]

I'm with 409T. Assuming everything else is OK with the motor, eg: no vacuum leak, timing is good, carb is tuned etc . . A higher stall will make a huge difference to the way the T drives. I'd lean towards something at least in the high 2000+. In a light car you will barely notice it's there until you stand on it at a stop light!

 

[Screaming Metal]

What He Said! You always want to get a little stall in one of these. The stock stall converter is designed to pull against a #3800 car at a redlight, pulling agianst a good braking system, and coming away clean at idle.
Fast forward to your bucket....you've got less than 1/2 that weight and at idle you'll pratically be straining your leg to hold it.....now, as 409T said, several things dictate your stall speed.
1. Is weight.
2. Torque that the motor makes.
3. Rear end ratio.

Now, I've said this till I'm blue in the face. A person with a TBucket will be happier with a little more stall speed than too little.
Until you actually driven one that IS TOO TIGHT, you cannot hope to understand. Once you've experienced it, you'll go outta your way to keep it from happening again....

 

[Screaming Metal]

Golly is right, with cars as light as ours, even if your running a good stall, once you've taken your foot off the brake, that car will start moving pretty good. as motor rpm increases, it'll be like your driving a std. shift, slipping the clutch some. Once you've added a little rpm you'll almost be locked up solid.
Put it like this, more people in the know will want a little looser converter than one thats too tight.
Remember, its a damn HotRod!

 

[BOB S]

I'm running a 327 - 375 horse Corvette motor on a blower with 14 pounds of boost and a two speed power glide
8 inch ford with 356 ratio on a Detroit locker.
I run a 3500 stall converter and it works perfectly for me.

 

[GreggDaniels]

I'm running roughly the same engine, tire combination but with 4.11 gears. I had a 2300 stall converter in it with the same problems you have. I put a 3000 stall converter in about a month ago and this thing is much happier. It idles better in gear, doesn't pull on the brakes and really gets your attention when you jump on it. I nailed it from a dead stop last week and is the one and only time i'll ever do it. I'm just too old for that crazy ditch to ditch disco dance. 3000 to 3500 stall and you won't be disappointed.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I put a Blueprint 350 engine in my T bucket. I have a Turbo 350 with (I beleive) stock stall torque converter.
I definately need a high stall as the car wants to die when you put it into gear at a 750 idle. and wants to drag the car really bad. The cam is .486 lift with 229*/230* degrees at .050 lift. It's power range is listed at 1200-5400 RPM.
I'm looking at Speedway Converters: one is listed as 2000-2200 Stall and one is 2200-2600 Stall. I have 3.25 Gears and 15X15X15.5 tires and the bucket weights 2000 pounds.

Thoughts and recomendations.

Swampdog

I'd shoot for 3000-3200....much over that, unless your really into racecars, the motor reving would kinda start grating on the nerves. 3500 is about the shutoff point where it starts being messy for the street. I would suggest no going over 3500.
You see, these torque converters were developed to launch a full bodied car off the line at the drag strip. You had to have the motor up where it is making power to launch all that weight from a stand still. They work really good on a light TBucket, to a point. Up around 3800 rpm, your motor will needlessly rrev.
When you order your converter, look for the good stuff like furnace brazed fins, and anti ballooning plates, etc. Don't look at flash stall speeds, but for normal stall. If I were to set a 3500 converter into a racecar, I could make it flash stall at 3800 or 4000. You want to look at 3000-3200.... Best thing if you could is to see if there is a bucket owner close that has a car with a 3000 converter in it and ask him if you could drive it....
As long as you have a rebuilt trans in your bucket or at least one with a shift kit in it that the trans is in good shape you should be fine. I would not suggest throwing a bunch of 3000 to 3500 rpm launches to a stock trans.... especially with some slicks or with MT Sportsmans out back and a really healthy Mouse Motor.
But, for a good ole decent hotrod motor and trans....3000-3200 rpm will be fine.
Also, remember, a slippery converter will heat up your fluid faster, I would suggest a aftermarket cooler. I always run a inline filter too....keeps things clean....but thats just me

 

[Swampdog]

Thanks for the info.
I have about settled on the 2600 stall in Speedway . since my cam has a range of 1200 to 5400. this engine is not that hot. It has TPI heads (double Captain Bars) although they are reworked with 2.02" valves. At 5400 max do I really need balloon plate at 5400?

 

[Screaming Metal]

Thanks for the info.
I have about settled on the 2600 stall in Speedway . since my cam has a range of 1200 to 5400. this engine is not that hot. It has TPI heads (double Captain Bars) although they are reworked with 2.02" valves. At 5400 max do I really need balloon plate at 5400?

Any good torque converter thats been built for performance usage is gonna have furnace brazed fins and anti-ballooning plates....
No, its not absolutely necessary to have these IF your not gonna hammer on it, but its a wise decision if you even do it a couple of times to have these. Remember at 3000 or at 4000 rpms theres alot of horses and torque twisting inside of these bellhousings.
Well, all the Fighters and StreetFighters, Holeshot and SuperHoleShot TC's have these, along with all the B&M's, TCI's, etc.
A stock Vega converter has a good bit of stall, probably what you'd like, but its not heavy duty. I've seen these put between a 350 horse 327 and a good TH350 Trans....I've seen them last a year or two under heavy usage, but yet I've seen them swell enough to start hitting the inside of the bellhousing after 3 or 4 romps. These things are not predictable, since they are not, its best to go with something that will stick with you within your budget.
No, You don't NEED the Anti-Ballooning plates or the heavy duty ears, or the furnace brazed fins....but you won't miss them until you need them. 1 Good launch is enough to swell a converter, a stock converter, if all things are correct, it can come apart. Its best to go with what you'll know will be there with you for years to come.
I just don't want to see someone get a cheap converter, stand on it, and have to replace stuff....Its best to get something that will last....

 

[gfigms]

I purchased a BluePrint 347 stroker and went with the recommended 2000-2200 stall converter ... big mistake! The car is not happy. It stalls almost everytime it is put in gear. Idles at 1100 rpm and you have to stand on the brakes, rev it up, then put it in gear to keep it from stalling. Not fun to drive in stop and go traffic. Looking at the HUP-42-30 (3000 stall) from Summit. It is a 4 hour job to change it out. Might try to find one with a bit higher stall, but do not want to get one custom made.

 

[Mike]

I just don't want to see someone get a cheap converter, stand on it, and have to replace stuff....Its best to get something that will last....

About the only saving grace to using a baby chick (cheap, cheap, cheap) converter in a T-Bucket is that 99 times out of 100, the cars will not be capable of planting the tire. If you ever get one to actually stick the tire, then the bargain-basement sprags (which is the primary reason these converters are prices so low) would be dropping like flies.

 

[fluidfloyd]

So don't they sell clutches anymore?

 

[iroct]

I've got three pedals in my coupe . Don't have many converter problems. Heh Heh.

 

[Swampdog]

I think I'll order the HUP-GM25HD from Summit. 2500 Stall Heavy duty sprags. Any one have any problems with the Hughes Brand?

 

[409T]

I've had that same converter behind my 409 for 4 years now. If I had it to do all over again I would get the 3000 rpm stall speed converter. I only idle at 700 or so rpm, but I still am more on the brakes at a stop light than I would like. Mine also doesn't get tested very heavily because the back wheels just break loose. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Swampdog]

I don't have much cam 230*@.050 so I going to try the 2500. Only takes a day to pull the engine to change. That what this thing is for, to tinker with. Is those in line Cooler (heat sink) worth the effort? I'm going to have to figure out if I can mount one of those coolers with an electric fan some where under the car.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I don't have much cam 230*@.050 so I going to try the 2500. Only takes a day to pull the engine to change. That what this thing is for, to tinker with. Is those in line Cooler (heat sink) worth the effort? I'm going to have to figure out if I can mount one of those coolers with an electric fan some where under the car.

Yes, worth the effort. Anytype of stall converter puts heat into the fluid, especially if running a shift kit or manual valve body as they apply more pressure to your clutch packs, thus creating even more heat....

 

[Quezzmo]

I don't have much cam 230*@.050 so I going to try the 2500. Only takes a day to pull the engine to change. That what this thing is for, to tinker with. Is those in line Cooler (heat sink) worth the effort? I'm going to have to figure out if I can mount one of those coolers with an electric fan some where under the car.

Let us know how the 2500 works for you. I have a slightly smaller cam 218/224 @.050 and I need to put in a stall pretty bad. I'm on the fence between 2500 or 3000.

You'll pull the engine to change it? Can you do that easier than dropping the trans?

 

[Swampdog]

That is a good question. Can you drop the transmission in a T Bucket wit a welded in cross member?