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Torque Converter Selection?

I'll be pulling the engine, fourth time in the last 3 months. At least it will give a chance to finish knocking the rest of the paint off.
It isn't that bad, reminds me of the 80's when we were pulling the engine on the AS-350 (A-Star Helicopter) every 100 hours or so.
 
My first day off since I got my GM25HD converter. Got installed test ran. It made a world of difference. I am happy with the 2500 rpm. Next a cooler possibly.
 
I would invest in a transmission temperature gauge with any kind of stall converter. It could save your transmission for about $50
 
I went a little nuts with the 327 in my car about 550hp and built my th400 and i put in a 10in tci 2800 stall wish i did a 3400 but dont feel like pulling the motor to change it lol maybe a winter project!
 
I got an 18 inch perm-a-cool frame rail cooler to install after the new torque converter. I am trying to decide wheater to by-pass the radiator or put it in series. Any thoughts?
 
There's not a hard and fast answer to that. In LA, you may want to bypass the radiator, as it will likely add as much heat as the external cooler will transfer out. In areas where temperatures get much colder, you might want that radiator adding a bit of heat, so the cooler isn't being excessively efficient.
 
I know opinions on this vary vastly but this is my .02 cents. Some are going to say keep the trans fluid out of the radiator to keep coolant heat down. My opinion is if your cooling system works properly that will NOT be a problem especially in such a small car. Maybe in extreme big hp engines, MAYBE that MAY help, but I prefer to put them in series. The coolant will help warm up your trans fluid, which will help the transmission work properly sooner. Transmissions are meant to run a certain temp also so you don't want it cold. Even tho the stall converter will warm up your fluid a little more, your fan and external cooler will take care of that just fine. Ideally you could run your fan off a temp sensor. Very nice car you have there by the way.
 
What kind of RPM did you need to see 550 HP?
You need some good flowing heads with some good old fashioned 2.050 intakes.
RPMs we're talking about 8800 ....
A client has a 327, Dart heads, cnc ported, 2.050 Manley intakes and 1.70 exhaust valves, canton panw/scraper, MSD ignition, .735 lift roller cam. Tunnelram w/ carbs....562horses....on racing fuel. He runs it in a nostalgia class, in a old Vega.
His main racer is 665Cu.In. rat powered S10....
 
lol 15,000 thats funny! dart pro heads .689 lift full roller 12.5 to 1 on 110 octane if i remember it was around 7300 rpm and made 541hp but dont quote me i cant find the paperwork plus tunnel ram dual quads
 
I've just received a FAX from Skeptical Hippo, with a suggestion that we need a new rule around here - If thou cannot produce thine dyno sheets, thou shalt not make unsupported horsepower claims.

hippo-1.jpg

Personally, I have found that horsepower claims are inversely proportional to the availability of dyno sheets. I'm jus' sayin'. Seeing is believing.

I'm betting that if you can find the flow numbers your cylinder head porter recorded, when he was finished with your heads and intake, you will find your dyno sheets very close at hand.

Last paragraph.
 
I've just received a FAX from Skeptical Hippo, with a suggestion that we need a new rule around here - If thou cannot produce thine dyno sheets, thou shalt not make unsupported horsepower claims.

View attachment 10296

Personally, I have found that horsepower claims are inversely proportional to the availability of dyno sheets. I'm jus' sayin'. Seeing is believing.

I'm betting that if you can find the flow numbers your cylinder head porter recorded, when he was finished with your heads and intake, you will find your dyno sheets very close at hand.

Last paragraph.
hahaha....I look like that every morning....scarey, till my 1st pot of coffee!

My absolute favorite motor is the 327, can't beat that rod to stroke ratio. Oh, and the 331's....
 
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