Transmission rebuild kit

[Bucketman]

Guy on You Tube had one something like it. So I looked on EBay and saw them for about $150, and thought if I do this right I'll probably never use it again. So I had some scrap pieces of 2x2x 1/8 layin around. So I made a big C and welded one side pin in, drilled a couple of holes cut a couple of pieces of 5/8 all thread I had then welded a plate on that bolts up to my engine stand. Cost, about $1.00 for four 5/8 nuts at the hardware store. And about three hours of my time. And I cleaned up a few pieces of scrap metal. It works great.

 

[Bucketman]

I got my th350 off Rolla Net. Sort of a local want ads for the internet. Just about any fare size town has one. Junk yards have very few unless someone held onto a bunch of them. They quit making the th350 in 79. Then until 87 they put out the th350C. Then the 700R4 which is simply a th350 with an O/D. This is what I've learned on the internet so I may be wrong. Or forgot my numbers. But if I couldn't get the th350 I would go with the 700R4. I've heard with a rebuild using a few aftermarket parts it is as good as the th350, and has an O/D.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Nice Fixture....paint er up and put it on a shelf....never known when it will come in handy. Mine is something like that, I also have a couple of pieces tubing welded on 1 side with UBolts for holding and twirling the rearends....
5 minutes can go from holding a motor, to a trans, or a rearend. I do blowers on my carpeted workbench with a gearheaded rotator mounted on the side....
Being comfortable doing this type of what is what its all about. Ya know....the right tool for the right job....

 

[Bucketman]

Thanks SM, I'm kind of proud of it. I love saving money. I think a piece of 1"x1/2" flatiron would have made a prettier one but mine should work fine for me.

 

[fletcherson]

I got my th350 off Rolla Net. Sort of a local want ads for the internet. Just about any fare size town has one. Junk yards have very few unless someone held onto a bunch of them. They quit making the th350 in 79. Then until 87 they put out the th350C. Then the 700R4 which is simply a th350 with an O/D. This is what I've learned on the internet so I may be wrong. Or forgot my numbers. But if I couldn't get the th350 I would go with the 700R4. I've heard with a rebuild using a few aftermarket parts it is as good as the th350, and has an O/D.

They also used the 200r4 metric somewhere in the late 70's early 80's, it was a lead in to the 700r4. (from memory) They made some of them in a multi-case design, which is nice to have as a universal piece. I have one that I am going to put in a 69 Skylark convertible to help justify the loss of fuel mileage I will suffer by the 455 I intend to install. I think the 350c was a somewhat limited production, but they did OK. My friend had one in a pickup that held out. The converter clutch was it's downfall. Then came the 200r4, I think they overlapped in production, then the trusty 700r4. They all have their weakness, but can be built to be decent street performance units without much trouble. The 400 turbo was a stronger unit and had larger shaft and components, but I wasn't fond of the gearing they had for my taste. I actually had more problems with them than the 350's. May have just been the application, but once I get a bad taste, I am pretty much done. I had a 67 Impala SS 396, turbo 400, 4:10 12 bolt posi from the factory and I went through numerous 400's and went to a 350, that held up. I suspect the gearing was just wrong for the application. That was before I knew much about much of anything...(l thought I knew it all! Like my kids do) lol

 

[Bucketman]

I would be happy with a rebuild able core. For some reason I am having trouble finding one in my neck of the woods. I had one a few years ago but gave it to a friend so he could finish his hot rod.

I saw some on EBay, but they were a little pricey.

 

[Bucketman]

Oh no! Sure are a lot of parts in that case. I look at this picture and almost have a panic attack. I don't even have the clutch packs out yet. The forward clutches all look good. The low and reverse frictions have a little pitting in them. Haven't checked with micrometer yet or even looked at steels. My low reverse piston doesn't want to come out of the case. I put air to it and it cycled back and forth, but didn't pop out. I don't see another snap ring. Anybody know if there is another snap ring after the low reverse spring retainer and springs?

 

[fletcherson]

Oh no! Sure are a lot of parts in that case.View attachment 10668 I look at this picture and almost have a panic attack. I don't even have the clutch packs out yet. The forward clutches all look good. The low and reverse frictions have a little pitting in them. Haven't checked with micrometer yet or even looked at steels. My low reverse piston doesn't want to come out of the case. I put air to it and it cycled back and forth, but didn't pop out. I don't see another snap ring. Anybody know if there is another snap ring after the low reverse spring retainer and springs?

It's been a while since I worked on one, but I only remember the one large ring inside the case. It is probably hanging up on the casting where the ring fits. Those can be tricky, there is a seal that tends to catch. Is it coming out strait or trying to rock on you?

 

[Bucketman]

It's operating normal. The air pushes it up and it drops back down when air is removed. Let me get a picture of what I'm talking about.
Not a good picture, but you can see the only thing in there is the low reverse clutch piston.

 

[Bucketman]

 

[Screaming Metal]

Don't let all the little pieces parts get you rattled, in your directions or instructions they will show were it all needs to go. Sometimes, oil being fed into a blind hole with a piston type device, a suction can feel like a snap ring.
Get a old Motor Repair Manual and look up the exploited view of your transmission, that will tell you if somethings holding it....

 

[fletcherson]

View attachment 10670

I have had them fight me too. The seal and case have a spot they are normally moving in and it is more smooth and likely a little worn, so the seal is probably tightening up when you get past that point. It is hard to say with any degree of certainty from looking at a picture. Make sure there are no obstructions like dirt, etc and try to get a hold of it and work it to try to pull the seal past that spot. I will look it up on my software to be sure, but I do not think there are any additional mechanical fasteners. This is a good illustration of why the seal installation sleeves are useful, The seals are prone to getting nicked and cut during installation.

 

[fletcherson]

I have had them fight me too. The seal and case have a spot they are normally moving in and it is more smooth and likely a little worn, so the seal is probably tightening up when you get past that point. It is hard to say with any degree of certainty from looking at a picture. Make sure there are no obstructions like dirt, etc and try to get a hold of it and work it to try to pull the seal past that spot. I will look it up on my software to be sure, but I do not think there are any additional mechanical fasteners. This is a good illustration of why the seal installation sleeves are useful, The seals are prone to getting nicked and cut during installation.

OK, I am looking at a motor professional service trade 7th edition transmission manual and I think the issue is that you need to compress the reverse clutch piston to remove the retaining ring, then the remaining parts and springs will come out. This is where the spring compressor that I referred to earlier comes in to play and more so when reassembly.

 

[Bucketman]

If at first you don't succeed try try again. Got it out. The air pressure popped it out and I didn't know it. I pushed it back down and watched while I hit it with the air. It popped up and dropped right back down. grabbed with both hands inside the piston and pushed outwards and it lifted right out. Duhhh!

 

[Mike]

Be careful using those cloth towels. Lint is not your friend, when you are working on a trans.

 

[Screaming Metal]

What Mike Said! And use good clean dead blow hammers if you have to tap on something, along with a good piece of 3/4" or 1" wooden dowel....
The really close tolerances in a trans....its actually easy to get a piece cocked slightly, avoid driving something in, tap on it lightly, take it out and try to realign it....
When working on a trans. your enemys are,
1. Dirt and lint
2. burrs, both alum. and steel
3. substandard parts....

 

[Bucketman]

Yes the book I have says to use brake clean and air only. Lint can actually cause the valves in the valve body to stick, or end up clogging the filter. Thanks Mike.
I finally got my rebuild kit. It came with alto red friction disc and steels, spacer kit, and needle bearings, bushings, O-rings, and gaskets. Should be all the parts I need to put together a transmission that will always get me home. Also got a B&M shift kit, 30262. Just to make it more dependable. I will be cleaning the case myself. I was told to use oven cleaner, and high pressure water. With an air dry. I have some foaming degreaser I'll start with. The one thing I know is any foreign material inside this case is my enemy. Also I want to have the case clean enough to paint although I've read that painting holds some of the heat in. Don't know if I'll paint or not. I'll start by soaking the frictions in transmission fluid.
My question of the day is, it will probably be a couple more months until I'm ready to start the engine. Is there something, besides just coating everything with transmission fluid, and Vaseline, I should do to make sure things don't dry out, or get sticky in the bore? Do I need to add anything to transmission fluid for break in? Thanks guys.

 

[fletcherson]

Yes the book I have says to use brake clean and air only. Lint can actually cause the valves in the valve body to stick, or end up clogging the filter. Thanks Mike.
I finally got my rebuild kit. It came with alto red friction disc and steels, spacer kit, and needle bearings, bushings, O-rings, and gaskets. Should be all the parts I need to put together a transmission that will always get me home. Also got a B&M shift kit, 30262. Just to make it more dependable. I will be cleaning the case myself. I was told to use oven cleaner, and high pressure water. With an air dry. I have some foaming degreaser I'll start with. The one thing I know is any foreign material inside this case is my enemy. Also I want to have the case clean enough to paint although I've read that painting holds some of the heat in. Don't know if I'll paint or not. I'll start by soaking the frictions in transmission fluid.
My question of the day is, it will probably be a couple more months until I'm ready to start the engine. Is there something, besides just coating everything with transmission fluid, and Vaseline, I should do to make sure things don't dry out, or get sticky in the bore? Do I need to add anything to transmission fluid for break in? Thanks guys.

That sounds like a good kit, I like those red clutches in my truck, but I had to buy thrust washers separately. The factory ones were plastic and one was broken(Ford). I always power wash the devil out of em prior to even opening them up, that's true with everything since I purchased a power washer several years back and after years of working on filthy greasy junk. Before the power washer, I used the car wash, I bet they are glad I got it! I don't know of any break in type of product for transmissions. That is primarily for metal to metal contact on flat tappet cams during initial break in while the lobes are hardening or what ever they do. I would just make sure everything is well lubed with fluid during assembly and then fill the converter (when installed). There is no reason to fill the transmission until you install it because the fluid will just lay in the pan. I would make sure all of the holes for lines, dip stick, converter, drive shaft yoke, etc... are sealed and when you do install it, check for condensation prior to filling it. I keep spare yokes to store unused transmissions and when pulling them to prevent spillage. Coat the front shaft and seals liberally with vaseline or assembly lube and the mating surface to any seals to prevent dry start. Definitely pre-soak the clutches and band overnight or longer and keep them wet. There are many aftermarket transmissions that come painted. I don't personally think it would make enough of a difference to matter in a mild duty application. Put a cooler on it and make it pretty if that's what you want, the fluid will dissipate the heat any ways.

 

[Bucketman]

Sounds good. I spent most of the day cleaning the case. Don't know what worked best but I used oven cleaner and engine degreaser, with a wire brush, on the outside of the case. Finally came clean with the air gun. Used brake clean and carb cleaner for the valve body. I could see little particles of crap blowing around at first but it is spotless now. I guess I'm ready to put the low reverse piston, and the springs and spring retainer in. Wish me luck, I'll need it.

 

[fletcherson]

Sounds good. I spent most of the day cleaning the case. Don't know what worked best but I used oven cleaner and engine degreaser, with a wire brush, on the outside of the case. Finally came clean with the air gun. Used brake clean and carb cleaner for the valve body. I could see little particles of crap blowing around at first but it is spotless now. I guess I'm ready to put the low reverse piston, and the springs and spring retainer in. Wish me luck, I'll need it.

Don't get in a hurry and watch your hands, the case is sharp! I think getting the low/rev clutch in and the pump shaft seals are the most tedious part, the rest of it is not bad. The R/L clutch pack is actually easy with a good compressor. I hope you have some seal sleeves. You can improvise with thin firm plastic if need be. Just don't let them get pinched. Good luck!