Transmission rebuild kit

[Bucketman]

Sharp is the truth. I have a few new cuts, and still didn't get the L/R piston snap ring in. I have six different snap ring pliers and not one worth ten cents. Went and bought a decent pair this morning so that snap ring is toast.
I have front and rear seals, I have bushings ,I have Torrington bearings, I have thrust washers, and I have a shim pack. I don't think I have seal sleeves. I have a ton of rubber seals for all the pistons. Is that what you mean? Hope so cause after I paid $255 for the kit I better have everything that is replaceable. Time to go fight snap rings.

 

[fletcherson]

Sharp is the truth. I have a few new cuts, and still didn't get the L/R piston snap ring in. I have six different snap ring pliers and not one worth ten cents. Went and bought a decent pair this morning so that snap ring is toast.
I have front and rear seals, I have bushings ,I have Torrington bearings, I have thrust washers, and I have a shim pack. I don't think I have seal sleeves. I have a ton of rubber seals for all the pistons. Is that what you mean? Hope so cause after I paid $255 for the kit I better have everything that is replaceable. Time to go fight snap rings.

Don't let me confuse the situation. What I call seal sleeves are not parts, they are disposable plastic film pieces that are designed to slide over the seals to protect them during installation and are then removed and discarded. They are very simple "helps" that are typically made of plastic film material that are meant to protect the seals from getting pinched or cut during installation as they are sometimes difficult. I feel your pain with the cuts and the clip ring pliers. I have numerous different designs and only like a few of them, none of which are totally sufficient.

 

[Mike]

I have six different snap ring pliers and not one worth ten cents.

When I was a youngster, and in trade school, we were not allowed use of snap-ring pliers in our auto-trans classes. We quickly learned that a broad vocabulary could be as helpful as a full toolbox. It's funny, but I still find times when it is easier to get a ring off, without resorting to the use of pliers.

 

[fletcherson]

When I was a youngster, and in trade school, we were not allowed use of snap-ring pliers in our auto-trans classes. We quickly learned that a broad vocabulary could be as helpful as a full toolbox. It's funny, but I still find times when it is easier to get a ring off, without resorting to the use of pliers.

They are almost more trouble than they are worth except where you can't get into the rings with picks and pry tools. I have one set that I have had for years that are pretty good for transmissions, but the tips are getting worn and I haven't seen another set quite like them. That's ok, I don't think I will be doing very many transmissions now anyways. I actually learned about transmissions and the use of specific vocabulary in the shed with screw drivers and other such crude implements, so special tools were strange when I actually learned what they were. Ignorance really can be bliss! The spring compressor is definitely a useful tool though.

 

[Bucketman]

I'm not one to loose my temper, throw tools, or curse at car parts. But that snap ring gave me the hardest time. I had a brand new spring compressor tool and a brand new pair of snap ring pliers. Still could not get the snap ring down and in the groove. Finally I noticed it was only one place it wouldn't go over the case. Turns out my new tool was a little narrow and there wasn't enough room for the snap ring to get past. Took it out and put it in the vice and got a crow bar under it and spread its legs apart about 1/16 of an inch. That made it sit towards the outside of the spring retainer. First try the snap ring jumped right into the groove. Put air to the piston and it goes up and down like it should with no leaks. I earned my self a cold beer!
The clutch frictions been soaking since yesterday so tomorrow morning I should be finished with all the clutches.
Never heard of seal sleeves, but the kit came with a piece of plastic, that looks a lot like a CD, but its real thin and flexible. Says to put it between the seal and the housing and just roll it around and the seals slide in. If it doesn't work I'll check into the sleeves. Now for that cold beer......

 

[Mike]

I'm not one to loose my temper, throw tools, or curse at car parts.

The trade school I attended was in a brick building, and we were all taught that when things got a little out of hand, we were to walk out the back door and talk to the wall. I was only out there a couple of times, but I was never alone out there. I could take the hat right off a sailor, but the last time I saw it, that wall was no worse for the wear.

 

[Bucketman]

The trade school I attended was in a brick building, and we were all taught that when things got a little out of hand, we were to walk out the back door and talk to the wall. I was only out there a couple of times, but I was never alone out there. I could take the hat right off a sailor, but the last time I saw it, that wall was no worse for the wear.

I'm a retired submariner. LOL, Machinist mate at that.

 

[fletcherson]

I'm a retired submariner. LOL, Machinist mate at that.

Then you are well suited to teach trade school!

 

[Bucketman]

lol

 

[Bucketman]

If it aint one thing, it's another. I have broken springs in the forward clutch piston. Anybody know what happens if I leave two springs out of the forward clutch piston? Still be 19 springs in it.

 

[fletcherson]

If it aint one thing, it's another. I have broken springs in the forward clutch piston. Anybody know what happens if I leave two springs out of the forward clutch piston? Still be 19 springs in it.

I wouldn't advise it. You went this far and bought the heavy clutches, etc... I would just replace all of the springs in it so you have even correct tension around the circumference. It would possibly work as is, but for how long? If two are broken, the rest are likely suspect as well and you don't want the piston to be able to wobble or stick and cause excessive wear on the clutches. I wouldn't want to risk it on an otherwise basically new transmission or have to redo it if was me.

 

[Bucketman]

I guess your right. If they didn't need to be there the factory wouldn't have put them in. Book says if I replace any I should replace them all. Found some on Ebay from a later model, springs attached to retainer. Another thirty bucks. If it has wheels or breasts it's gonna cost you.

 

[Indycars]

Just roll it around like a wheel while applying a little downward pressure to the piston, worked great for me!

 

[Bucketman]

That's what I was talking about. It worked like a charm.

Just roll it around like a wheel while applying a little downward pressure to the piston, worked great for me!

View attachment 10695

View attachment 10696

 

[fletcherson]

That's what I was talking about. It worked like a charm.

That is a little different than I have used, but looks easy to hold on to. Your right about the money thing. EVERYTHING I do costs way more than it should, in my opinion. Remember when we were young and knew everything and $20.00 was a lot of money (and breasts pointed the right way)? I miss those days!

 

[Bucketman]

Seems like this is taking forever. This is where I came to a standstill.
Here is my nice clean, neatly arranged work table. lol And the guilty culprit laying at the top corner, the forward clutch. Hoping the springs will arrive today, if not today, it'll hopefully be here Monday. Everything else is finished and ready to go back together. Right at the end of the c-clamp are the two broken springs.
I've decided that rebuilding a th350 is not as hard to do as I thought it would be. I now know the difference and the names of all the clutches. Low reverse clutch, forward clutch, direct clutch, intermediate clutch. Still not sure how they all work together but I can take them apart and put them back together. Yet to be seen if I did it right.

 

[T-Test]

As simple as any tranny made. Man who designed automatic trannys drove himself madd , LITERALLY. But if you were to see the fluid path as it goes from one gear to another, you would see how it does it and why/when it does it. There are diagrams of this in books, especially for ASE certification. I worked at a tranny shop for a few years and saw the owner prove a point about a TH350 one day. He took the valve body out and dropped it in the dirt, then put it back in the tranny, no cleaning or wiping at all. Filled it with fluid and drove off with it and it never failed. Seals are the most important thing, making sure fluid goes where it is supposed too. Heat is the killer of them. You will get 'er done and be proud of it. Nothing ventured-nothing gained.

 

[fletcherson]

Seems like this is taking forever. View attachment 10723This is where I came to a standstill. View attachment 10724
Here is my nice clean, neatly arranged work table. lol And the guilty culprit laying at the top corner, the forward clutch. Hoping the springs will arrive today, if not today, it'll hopefully be here Monday. Everything else is finished and ready to go back together. Right at the end of the c-clamp are the two broken springs.
I've decided that rebuilding a th350 is not as hard to do as I thought it would be. I now know the difference and the names of all the clutches. Low reverse clutch, forward clutch, direct clutch, intermediate clutch. Still not sure how they all work together but I can take them apart and put them back together. Yet to be seen if I did it right.

Where's the cardboard? Lol Hopefully you won't need to study the fluid path diagrams...That would normally mean that you are tracking down an issue! You are right to check the seals with air. If they stick or leak, stop there and fix them and it should be good to go. Also, round nose feeler gauges make decent seal tools also, as long as they are not sharp on the edges. When you get to the valve body, don't over torque. I have stripped threads, not good.

 

[Bucketman]

As simple as any tranny made. Man who designed automatic trannys drove himself madd , LITERALLY. But if you were to see the fluid path as it goes from one gear to another, you would see how it does it and why/when it does it. There are diagrams of this in books, especially for ASE certification. I worked at a tranny shop for a few years and saw the owner prove a point about a TH350 one day. He took the valve body out and dropped it in the dirt, then put it back in the tranny, no cleaning or wiping at all. Filled it with fluid and drove off with it and it never failed. Seals are the most important thing, making sure fluid goes where it is supposed too. Heat is the killer of them. You will get 'er done and be proud of it. Nothing ventured-nothing gained.

The seals were all bad. Three out of four had split and couldn't have held back peanut butter. The frictions were all worn and a few were showing metal thru the friction material. The 2-3 accumulator spring was broke, and two of the forward piston return springs also. I am glad I didn't try to use it without rebuilding it. I don't think I would have gone far before it started pumping bits of metal. I believe when I'm done it will work and last a good while before it needs to be rebuilt again. I'm not going to throw the valve body in the dirt though it's good to know I could. lol

 

[Bucketman]

Where's the cardboard? Lol Hopefully you won't need to study the fluid path diagrams...That would normally mean that you are tracking down an issue! You are right to check the seals with air. If they stick or leak, stop there and fix them and it should be good to go. Also, round nose feeler gauges make decent seal tools also, as long as they are not sharp on the edges. When you get to the valve body, don't over torque. I have stripped threads, not good.

The book says 10 to 13 lb. of torque, and to torque them several times to make sure the gasket is compressed right. The book by Ron sessions actually has a section on installing a thread insert incase of a stripped one. So I bet your not the first (or last) to strip a thread installing the valve body.
Couldn't find a piece of cardboard big enough, hence all the surgical rags. No lent.