cooters T bucket build

[cooter]

Yup...no upholstery other than the seat...no carpeting either. Everything not painted will be covered with the tinted bed liner. The plan is to make the entire seat removable by pulling hinge pins, and/or making the seat cushions velcro in for easy removal. A few reasons for this route...

The first being that this thing is likely to be outside all the time...no garage, only a car cover when parked...no top, only eventually a tonneau cover when out and about. Our property is adjacent to a large wooded ravine, so we have a large variety of varmints that would make short work of converting upholstery to nesting material. No worries about wet upholstery.

Next, though this car will be built from a T-Bucket body, frame, and many parts, it's not going to be built T-Bucket style. It's going to be built in a post war T Modified/Track roadster style...a race car. Not to many race cars with upholstery.

Finally it's simply a matter of keeping it simple and low budget.

Sounds like my thinking.

 

[2old2fast]

You folks thinking about storing your car outdoors need to be aware that some collector/specialty car insurance policy's will NOT cover your car unless it is stored in a secure ,weatherproof , lockable storage area .... read the fine print guys...
dave

 

[Indycars]

I just went thru this with a 1965 Malibu and I couldn't find a single company that would cover it without being garage stored. YMMV

 

[cooter]

been in pops wood shop spittin out blocks from a pine shelve board from a scout project.. upcycleing. now i need a wood pecker.. pop said hit it with a meat tenderiser... parents... wow

 

[rbsWELDER]

Where can I buy a woodpecker?

 

[cooter]

top flite woodpecker amazon $18.00..guess i better get one

 

[benT]

Using 2X's? Hopefully won't be too thick. I've typically used 1X's and 3/4" plywood and OSB...

As for a "woodpecker"- never seen one of those before. I usually rough up the wood and body with course sandpaper. Then glue with gorilla glue or construction adhesive. Couple of layers of glass then some tiger hair filler.

 

[cooter]

Im useing 3/4 inch pine board. 2" 3" 4" 6" & 12" pieces all ripped 3 1/2" width.

 

[Zandoz]

Where can I buy a woodpecker?

I got mine on ebay...under $15

 

[Zandoz]

You folks thinking about storing your car outdoors need to be aware that some collector/specialty car insurance policy's will NOT cover your car unless it is stored in a secure ,weatherproof , lockable storage area .... read the fine print guys...
dave

I just went thru this with a 1965 Malibu and I couldn't find a single company that would cover it without being garage stored. YMMV

When the time comes I'll let my wife handle the insurance...she used to be a specialty insurance agent.

 

[cooter]

We park our cars at hotels across the country. They aint got garages.

 

[cooter]

Since im setting here waiting on money tree again, i need to think about brake pedal and master cyl. Set up. Anyone got some cool ideas? I see all kinds. Whats best

 

[Zandoz]

Since im setting here waiting on money tree again, i need to think about brake pedal and master cyl. Set up. Anyone got some cool ideas? I see all kinds. Whats best

I'm using a Wilwood floor mount pedal assembly that bolts to/thru the floor, and uses 2 separate master cylinders mounted on the opposite side of the firewall...


No under floor master(s) to mess with, and the masters can be sized differently for the different design front and rear brakes. Plus I like the idea of the pedal assembly being fastened securely thru the floor to the frame. I just don't trust the way many do suspended pedal assemblies, mounted to just plywood reinforced fiberglass. I'm probably just being paranoid, but that's my opinion.

 

[Zandoz]

I forgot to add that I'm planning on using appropriate bore size(s) of Tilton 74 series remote reservoir master cylinders

 

[guilld]

Just go with the through the floor chevy master cylinder. Mount it on the appropriate side of your frame. I would not think you would need double mst cyl or power on this light of a car. This will be you least expensive route.

 

[Zandoz]

The under floor configuration is fine if you do not mind working through a hole in the floor, and/or from under the car. Because of my mobility limitations I'm trying to eliminate as much potential restricted access maintenance as possible. I agree that power brakes are not necessary in most cases, but not a bad thing if you want them. Where I have to disagree is on the necessity of dual feed or double master cylinders. There is a reason that they have been required on new cars since the mid/late '60s...they are safety features well worth implementing.

 

[cooter]

The under floor configuration is fine if you do not mind working through a hole in the floor, and/or from under the car. Because of my mobility limitations I'm trying to eliminate as much potential restricted access maintenance as possible. I agree that power brakes are not necessary in most cases, but not a bad thing if you want them. Where I have to disagree is on the necessity of dual feed or double master cylinders. There is a reason that they have been required on new cars since the mid/late '60s...they are safety features well worth implementing.

I use to fool with vw beetles from way back with single master cyl. One wheel cyl blows you lost all brakes!!!

 

[Zandoz]

I use to fool with vw beetles from way back with single master cyl. One wheel cyl blows you lost all brakes!!!

Exactly! I've had to limp home more than one VW using the hand brake, when the brakes suddenly called it quits. Yes a dual/double system is more expensive and complicated...but still worth it.

In my case, the double system adds a big plus beyond safety. I'll be running 2 widely different disc brake systems on my car...a rather basic but probably slightly overkill Speedway setup on the front...And a high performance WAY overkill Ford racing setup on the rear. The double system allows going with 2 different master cylinder bores, optimized for each half of the system...and balance bar bias adjustment at the pedal.

 

[benT]

I think Guild was talking about having not needing two separate master cylinders (like the tilton or wilwood units)... and using a single MC unit with dual reservoirs that has been around for 40+ years. These cars don't require rocket science to build (although a few of you are apparently looking to go that route), stick with something simple, reliable and available. We used an early 70's Mustang MC that was made for non-power disc/drum setup with a 1" bore. With the single piston GM calipers and the 10" S10 rear drums, and a 6:1 pedal ratio, the setup is working great with almost perfect pedal pressure and action. The MC is mounted under the floor with bracketry we fabbed up. We also made the pedal and the adjustable pushrod. All this was about done for the cost of some steel and the MC which was about $50 without the core.

 

[cooter]

Is there any pedal box and brake pedal plans out there? I aint found any. Or just buy one already made.