I have a 2 1/4" aluminum spacer in my front motor mounts to solve that same problem.
My new Bucket Build
- Thread starter Zack
- Start date
I have a 2 1/4" aluminum spacer in my front motor mounts to solve that same problem.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Zack, you might want to look into a Slam-guard oil pan. I have one and it has done its job on numerous occasions. I have 3-1/2" clearance and I catch my pan a couple of times a season! I'll post a pic of my Slam-guard when I get home tonight.
Zack
Member
I can add a spacer to the spring but i really hate to do that if i can help it. Right now i have everything sitting exactly how i wanted it. I would like to exhaust finding an alternate oil before i start changing the suspension. I already have one 3/4" spacer on the perch. I wish i could find a pan that would solve this problem.
Zack
Member
Stef's? No i'm familiar with it. I will take a look though.
EX JUNK
Moderator
I have 3" clearance on my Slam-Guard pan and I have no problem with it hitting the road.
Jim
Zack
Member
I am looking at one of those pan's as well. That looks to be the best option at the moment.
Zack
Member
Looks like it just has a skid plate welded onto the bottom from what i can tell.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Yep, just a standard pan with a 3/16 plate welded to it. I can't find the picture I had of mine showing the scratches and gouges I have picked up in five years of driving. One gouge I have would have definitely punctured a regular pan!! Absolutely worth the money, as far as I'm concerned!
Zack
Member
Flats.......... Thanks man, I love the way it sits too but that has to go i guess. I have raised the rear coil-over shocks as high as they will go and the pan still scraps the ground. PLUS, My tie rod is approx. 1/4" from touching the bottom of the frame.
I am gonna see if Ron can build me some dropped steering arms that will cure this problem. I am also going to see if i can rebuild the rear shock mounts so i can make the shocks more vertical instead of how they are laying in so much. That will raise the car in the rear. I will be putting a 2" spacer block under the front spring perch in effort to raise the front. The other option is to buy a stock GM pan, cut at least one inch out of the sump and modify the pick up tube. That will gain me quite a bit also. Down side is i will loose some oil capacity. So, i still have a big issue to fix with the oil pan situation.
Zach, you might not need the dropped steering arms after you raise the frame, just a thought. If you do, it might be better to run the tie rod in front of the axle, if you can maintain your ackerman angle. Not a lot of cars with a tie rod between the radius rods on lowered cars. Even on my Spirit car, I had to have Ron make me some 1" spacers to go between the steering arm and tie rod, and I just have a reversed eye spring with just a 1" drop over their standard suspension. Another thing, check to see if you will have any turning interference between the tie rod and spring shackle, another reason I guess to have a longer steering arm if you go that route.
I'm pretty much a newb, here, but this is what I learned about my own project.
Steve
I'm pretty much a newb, here, but this is what I learned about my own project.
Steve
Zack
Member
Thanks Steve, yes my tie-rod barely clears the spring shackle at full lock. See, my problem is i am trying to avoid raising the frame at all costs for the "look" factor. I know i may have to in the end but right now i am trying every way i know how to avoid raising the frame to clear the pan. The steer arms problem i can solve with a bit lower arms. If i go back with a stock GM pan i think that will improve it alot too. My current pan is a finned aluminum pan that is lower near the drain plug. It drops lower to the rear. My rear shock upper mounts are too far inboard. I am thinking of building some new mounts that will move the upper shock mounts further outboard thereby raising the rear of the car. Look at the pics here and you will see what a drastic angle these shocks have (i didn't do it, LOL. The guy i bought the frame from did those).PLus the springs feel very soft. I may try going to a longer and stronger spring before i modify the mounts.
2old2fast
Active Member
No idea how much interference there'd be w/ your pickup bed but, if you moved the rear upper shock mounts to the outside of the frame, I,d think they'd work/look better. Be cautious about raising your sump, too close to the crank will cause severe windage problems, gotta be a better way!!! Can you flip your tierod to the bottom of the steering arm, or add spacer's?? dave
Zack
Member
Dave, I am going back with a stock steel GM pan. The tie-rods is under the arms already plus a 1" spacer. I need 3" total drop to make it work. I think RPM can fab those for me. Yes, I have room to move the rear upper shock mounts to the bottom side of the frame rail. I am thinking that is my best option.
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