tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
One side down and one to go. I'm working outside, "shade tree" style. I've lost my shade, and the heat index is 96*, so I'll run some errands and get back after it in a few hours.
"Black Dahlia"
- Thread starter tfeverfred
- Start date
Gerry
Well-Known Member
nothing like turning an old dog into a shiny part for your Bucket. I used a cup wire brush on a 4" angle grinder in the past to clean things like this. Bet the finished picture will look great. I think I would get those brake drum shot blasted, but its down to time and sweat.
Nothing like someone who puts their heart and sole into a project. Keep at it buddy.
Nothing like someone who puts their heart and sole into a project. Keep at it buddy.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I usually start with a good power washing...
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Had to wait a while for the sun to set a little, but back on track.
....and done!
....and done!
I really need to get a sun canopy and get busy on my axle. I only have 2 brackets to remove...and a lot of rust and grease.
What's the best approach to taking off those brackets? My thought is to use a reciprocating saw to get most of the bracket out of the way, then follow up with a grinder to take off the remnants.
What's the best approach to taking off those brackets? My thought is to use a reciprocating saw to get most of the bracket out of the way, then follow up with a grinder to take off the remnants.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I used a small Makita with a 4" cutting disc. Then, I used a BF grinder. It didn't take as long as I thought. The hardest part was getting started. So far, it looks like I'll be able to use the factory brake line tabs. But I won't know for sure, until I lay out my suspension brackets.
I hear ya on that hardest part!
I have an angle grinder, and cutoff discs, but I've never done any cutting.
I've already run into problems with the brake line tabs on mine. After repeated doses of WD-40 and Sea Foam Deep Creep they still will not budge. I'm afraid I'm going to have to grind the heads off. The only suspension brackets I have to deal with are the two bag brackets. I'm using the factory link brackets, so no worries there.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Heat is your friend on rusted or frozen fittings. It expands the metal and breaks the bond. Cut off wheels are the bomb! I use them on everything. I like the six inch ones, the thinner, the better, they cut better and faster than the thicker ones. Also if you by buy the ones designed for stainless, they last longer.
I've been reluctant to try heating because of the warped axle tube stories I've seen. The grinder and cutoff wheels I have are 4"...and to be honest thin enough that I have worries about them shattering and becoming shrapnel. I've not noticed stainless wheels...I'll look for them.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
My land lord suggested cutting mine off with a torch. That would have been quicker, but I saw a friend burn a hole in a housing trying to remove brackets, so it was never a thought. The thing about heat is too much, in the same spot, isn't a good thing. Axle housing aren't that thick, so they require care when welding, heating and sometimes, even grinding.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Yes and no on the heat. You have to pay attention and direct it where it needs to be and know when to stop. Also you can wrap a wet rag around to help control it or use a piece of metal as a shield, etc. also, from my experience, rapid cooling is more damaging as far as warping and making it brittle, so moderation is key. It doesn't take that much heat to break parts loose, it just needs to be in the correct spot. You want to expand the female component just enough to allow it to move. I combine directed heat with hammer taps and keep a good quality tool handy to remove it as I do it. I honestly don't know how I ever worked on older cars without a torch....On the blade thickness, the thicker the blade, the more heat and material removal, thus more blade degradation and binding, etc. I think the thicker ones are actually more prone to catching and throwing pieces off than the thin ones. I have used them for twenty plus years, thinner is definitely better unless you want a grinder. The thinner blades also cut much cleaner and leave less burr, etc... The blades rated to cut stainless cut a little slower than the " razor blade" type, but last longer and have more reinforcing strands in them to prevent them from coming apart. The key is don't bind it and allow it to catch or distort the blade, let the blade do the work, don't force it. Also the faster the rpm of the grinder, the better, within reason. I've found. I prefer the 1350 rpm grinders. 10k is ok. The slower, the more binding, etc...
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
As far as removing brackets, I always use a cut off wheel to cut the welds just above the housing. If the bracket is complex, I cut it apart as I go to minimize the stress on the wheel and allow the cleanest, coolest cut to the housing. After I get the bulk bracket and weld out of the way, I grind and sand the remainder smooth. Again, if you let the blade do the work and dont rush or force it, the heat will be minimal.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Dang, Fletch. It's like you were standing over my shoulder.
I sliced those suckers out in easy to manage pieces. I'm going to grind and wire brush the rear end, but it'll be later. Like maybe this Saturday. Maybe. Gotta stay busy and get ready for Ron's rear suspension package. So far, I'm on track, as far as having a rolling chassis, by the end of summer. After that, my journal/build thread will get boring because I'll be putting the coins away for the engine, trans and body.fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Funny, guys who do this stuff tend to think alike... When I hear someone talking about a project I've done, it's almost like being there, lol.Dang, Fletch. It's like you were standing over my shoulder.
I guess since I have a supply of cutoff discs I'll start whittling down those quad-shock brackets with the discs. I doubt I'll use heat on the axle tubes to free up the brake line tab screws. I'm not comfortable with the potential warping, plus the tabs have rubber isolators and I've already filled my quota of burning rubber fumes. If I have to, I'll grind the heads off. I'm not planning on using the tabs anyway.
Now I just need something for portable shade
Now I just need something for portable shade
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Stance. It's a game changer.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Gawd, I love that T Bucket.^ I could look at the pics I have forever.
Okay, when I got off work, I started planning out where I want my lower shock mounts and radius rod mounts to go. For this, I referenced my Total Performance build manual. For those that don't know, if you're building a T Bucket and need a source for info on building a T, this manual has it covered. It breaks down every component in a T Bucket. From frame to interior installation. It also has blue prints for building all the components of the chassis. IMO, it's a must have.
So, what I remembered and hated about TP's rear end set up was radius rod placement. They called for placing the radius rods inward of the shock mounts. What this meant, was in order for the radius rods to clear the body underneath, you had to cut out a section from the bottom of the body, near the kick up. It you've ever seen the inside of a TP body, the cut outs are clearly visible. That section of the body ends up with a "flap". When I built my T, I removed a section just big enough for clearance and ended up raising the rear of my body about an inch. It worked, but I ALWAYS hated the look. It made the radius rods run almost parallel to the frame rail.
Looking at the blueprints, I found my self in luck. By reversing the brackets and moving the radius rod brackets further out, I'd get the radius rod clearance I want, the look I want and a bonus was that the placement of the shocks inward would most likely yield a better ride. So, here are the measurements for bracket placement on my S10 rear end. First, the S10 rear measurements:
54.5" WMS to WMS
47.5" BP to BP
My radius rods will be 39" apart. This will move each 4.25" from the backing plate. The shock mounts center line are 34" apart and 2.5" inward of each radius rod. This places them 3.75" from either side of the upper shock mounts on my frame, which is 26.5" wide, giving me, ROUGHLY, a 15* to 17* shock angle. Just enough from straight up, to yield a nice ride.
So, I'll order my rear suspension kit from Ron, soon, and the mount for the transmission from CCR. A buddy has a SBC and 350th that we'll use for placing the engine and transmission mounts. With any luck, my chassis should be complete and painted by the end of July. Or at least that's the plan.
Stay tuned.
Okay, when I got off work, I started planning out where I want my lower shock mounts and radius rod mounts to go. For this, I referenced my Total Performance build manual. For those that don't know, if you're building a T Bucket and need a source for info on building a T, this manual has it covered. It breaks down every component in a T Bucket. From frame to interior installation. It also has blue prints for building all the components of the chassis. IMO, it's a must have.
So, what I remembered and hated about TP's rear end set up was radius rod placement. They called for placing the radius rods inward of the shock mounts. What this meant, was in order for the radius rods to clear the body underneath, you had to cut out a section from the bottom of the body, near the kick up. It you've ever seen the inside of a TP body, the cut outs are clearly visible. That section of the body ends up with a "flap". When I built my T, I removed a section just big enough for clearance and ended up raising the rear of my body about an inch. It worked, but I ALWAYS hated the look. It made the radius rods run almost parallel to the frame rail.
Looking at the blueprints, I found my self in luck. By reversing the brackets and moving the radius rod brackets further out, I'd get the radius rod clearance I want, the look I want and a bonus was that the placement of the shocks inward would most likely yield a better ride. So, here are the measurements for bracket placement on my S10 rear end. First, the S10 rear measurements:
54.5" WMS to WMS
47.5" BP to BP
My radius rods will be 39" apart. This will move each 4.25" from the backing plate. The shock mounts center line are 34" apart and 2.5" inward of each radius rod. This places them 3.75" from either side of the upper shock mounts on my frame, which is 26.5" wide, giving me, ROUGHLY, a 15* to 17* shock angle. Just enough from straight up, to yield a nice ride.
So, I'll order my rear suspension kit from Ron, soon, and the mount for the transmission from CCR. A buddy has a SBC and 350th that we'll use for placing the engine and transmission mounts. With any luck, my chassis should be complete and painted by the end of July. Or at least that's the plan.
Stay tuned.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Sounds like things are starting to gel for you Fred. That is a good looking bucket in the above post. I wonder if that is an aluminum engine? Just strange to see one painted silver or whatever color that is.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Well, let's just say, I have a nice PLAN.
The car was built by HAMB member, "Royal Shifter". The block has had the casting ground off and it's painted white.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Miss Behavin' 3?
