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"Black Dahlia"

Sorry Fred! If the shift lever is to close to the seat you can it an offset in the stick or change the position of the rod on the trans.

Thanks. I have a bad habit of hi-jacking, too. I try to catch myself. The more I look at the relationship of my last shifter to the seat edge, which is close to the where a door would be, the more it looks like I'll be okay. CCR added length to the cowl and body. It looks like the body length was added just after the door. If any modifications are needed, they'll be minimal.
 
Jim, I was looking at your seat thread earlier. Looks like a nice approach. 409, I like your idea as well. Right now, I'm just gathering info on what's involved with that body curve. My previous seat was good, but the back was a straight piece with padding. While it was comfortable and worked well, I think this time I can do a better job. The materials aren't that expensive in the long run. I used Zodiac marine vinyl with metal flake last time and will use it again. I think I paid around $60 for a piece that was 54"x60". But it was 100% water proof and I went through a couple rain storms.

One thing I've told myself, is that gathering info and taking my time with this build should yield good results. So, time between gathering funds and parts for the next step is my time to research and crunch ideas. Time can sometimes be a poor mans best friend.;)
 
I was side tracked, looking at Cooter's build and found a pic of his transmission mount and cross member. It looks like Rons cross member and trans mount, which is similar to CCR's. My TP shifter bolts to the 2 top bolts that attach the transmission tail and places the shifter assembly FORWARD and on top of the trans body, just in front of the tail. It'll work, but it'll be close.

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. Of course, I can't remember having to use 1st or 2nd with an automatic,

When I made my shifter & detent for the 350 didn't bother with the 1,2 positions. With healthy HP and a light T couldn't see any reason to have to go there. If someone out drags you, so what. I just have P R N D and I figure thats all I will need. D is good.
Gerry
 
In the pic of Cooters, I forgot he's using a 700r transmission. But here's a pic with CCR's transmission mount in it and it also shows the forward angled mounting bracket, which should let my shifter arm and handle clear the cross member.

Oh.... looking at that pic made me realize I was going to mount my cross member in BACKWARD!!!:eek: Research, man. Research.:D

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It's not that hard. I used 3 layers of 1/4" bending plywood and made a totally removable insert.

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1884.JPG

409, did you wet the plywood to get it's shape, clamped it in and let it dry to keep the shape? That's a way I read a long time ago, but over time, I'm sure I'm missing some steps.
 
I used 1/4 luan , 2 side pieces, 4 corner pieces , 2 pieces for the back . Kerf cut the pieces that had to bend , temporarily screwed them in place , then matte & resin , pulled the screws , aliitle more glass , took it out & glassed the backside , made a nice removable insert...
dave
 
I used 1/4 luan , 2 side pieces, 4 corner pieces , 2 pieces for the back . Kerf cut the pieces that had to bend , temporarily screwed them in place , then matte & resin , pulled the screws , aliitle more glass , took it out & glassed the backside , made a nice removable insert...
dave

I had to look up Luan. So, it's a flexible plywood. Okay, I'll keep it in mind.
 
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Got it. Thanks.
 
409, did you wet the plywood to get it's shape, clamped it in and let it dry to keep the shape? That's a way I read a long time ago, but over time, I'm sure I'm missing some steps.
I used bending plywood. Normal plywood is made with the grain of the different plys laid in alternating directions. For example if it is a 5 ply piece, two of the layers will have their grain running north-south, and the other three will have their grain running east-west. This is what helps keep the sheet flat and straight as well as adding strength. In bending plywood the grain of all the plies runs in the same direction. Depending on what you buy, the sheet (assuming a 4' x 8') may flex in the 8' direction or in the 4' direction. There are various thicknesses available, I used 1/4". The stuff is so flexible that a sheet of it will not stand up by itself when leaned against the wall, there is no need for kerfing as 2o2f suggested. If you look at the pics I posted, you will see that there is red stuff between the layers. This is contact cement, although regular yellow glue will work just as well. I buy contact cement that is tinted red because it is easier to see for clean-up. All you have to do is bend one piece into place and it takes VERY little pressure to do this, cover it with glue of your choice, and then add a second layer. When the glue dries the two pieces will hold their curved shape without any help. I used contact cement so that I wouldn't have to wait for any glue to dry after I stuck the two pieces together, but as I said, any glue will work fine. My pics show a third layer, that is just to add thickness. You would be surprised at how strong just two layers of 1/4" stuff is.
 
I used bending plywood. Normal plywood is made with the grain of the different plys laid in alternating directions. For example if it is a 5 ply piece, two of the layers will have their grain running north-south, and the other three will have their grain running east-west. This is what helps keep the sheet flat and straight as well as adding strength. In bending plywood the grain of all the plies runs in the same direction. Depending on what you buy, the sheet (assuming a 4' x 8') may flex in the 8' direction or in the 4' direction. There are various thicknesses available, I used 1/4". The stuff is so flexible that a sheet of it will not stand up by itself when leaned against the wall, there is no need for kerfing as 2o2f suggested. If you look at the pics I posted, you will see that there is red stuff between the layers. This is contact cement, although regular yellow glue will work just as well. I buy contact cement that is tinted red because it is easier to see for clean-up. All you have to do is bend one piece into place and it takes VERY little pressure to do this, cover it with glue of your choice, and then add a second layer. When the glue dries the two pieces will hold their curved shape without any help. I used contact cement so that I wouldn't have to wait for any glue to dry after I stuck the two pieces together, but as I said, any glue will work fine. My pics show a third layer, that is just to add thickness. You would be surprised at how strong just two layers of 1/4" stuff is.

X2. It's great stuff.

ply.png

Laminated layers.

tablet-stand-birch-bent-plywood-etsy1.jpg

If you can find it, there's also pre-kerfed.

kerfed.jpg

And finish it off with a single piece.

bentply_2.jpg
 
I used bending plywood. Normal plywood is made with the grain of the different plys laid in alternating directions. For example if it is a 5 ply piece, two of the layers will have their grain running north-south, and the other three will have their grain running east-west. This is what helps keep the sheet flat and straight as well as adding strength. In bending plywood the grain of all the plies runs in the same direction. Depending on what you buy, the sheet (assuming a 4' x 8') may flex in the 8' direction or in the 4' direction. There are various thicknesses available, I used 1/4". The stuff is so flexible that a sheet of it will not stand up by itself when leaned against the wall, there is no need for kerfing as 2o2f suggested. If you look at the pics I posted, you will see that there is red stuff between the layers. This is contact cement, although regular yellow glue will work just as well. I buy contact cement that is tinted red because it is easier to see for clean-up. All you have to do is bend one piece into place and it takes VERY little pressure to do this, cover it with glue of your choice, and then add a second layer. When the glue dries the two pieces will hold their curved shape without any help. I used contact cement so that I wouldn't have to wait for any glue to dry after I stuck the two pieces together, but as I said, any glue will work fine. My pics show a third layer, that is just to add thickness. You would be surprised at how strong just two layers of 1/4" stuff is.

Okay, just got in from work. I searched Home Depot and Lowes, they don't have it. Is there another place I can try or will I need to order i?. The problem is the places on the net deal in bulk.
 
Okay, just got in from work. I searched Home Depot and Lowes, they don't have it. Is there another place I can try or will I need to order i?. The problem is the places on the net deal in bulk.
Look for masonry or commercial builders supply companies. I'm not familiar with your area.
 
Built and owned by Marty Strode. He's a well known Hot Rod builder, racer and master fabricator. He's on the HAMB, but I think he may be on Facebook.
Now that does not surprise me. I have saved a couple of pics of The Strode Special. I just love the old track roadster look.
 

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