tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Tomorrow, I think I'll clean those drums up. When I was looking at my frame last night, they were buggin' the hell out of me. Every little step, is a step forward.
"Black Dahlia"
- Thread starter tfeverfred
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choppinczech
Well-Known Member
That's how I am. My gut usually dictates my actions.
I've learned to trust it and go with it. Even minuscule things that bug me have to get corrected.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Got up early and did some grinding and painting on the drums. It was mostly surface rust, so I didn't expend a lot of time and energy on them. Being out of site, a good cleaning was all they needed. A couple coats of primer and, if I get a wild hair, I'll paint them black tomorrow. I love the fins on drum breaks. Heck, if I could afford them, I'd run a set of finned drums up front. Maybe when I'm playing on the internet, I'll see what's out there.
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
The edit timed out on me. I used a wire wheel, NOT a grinder, on the drums.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I got lucky and found a great deal on rear brakes for my tri five rearend at rock auto. They are high quality parts, finned drums, even have a nice painted surface. I got both wheels including everything, springs, wheel cylinders, hardware, drums, etc for less than a bill including shipping. Overstock or old inventory, I guess. Anyways, I tried this rust remover from my local farm supply store that you just soak the parts in, and it works well. I tried it because I have some wood working equipment that has sat and all of the parts rusted. I was shocked how well it worked. You just let the parts soak, check them after a day or so, rinse them with water and re dip them to prevent flash. You might try it on stuff that doesn't have scale, etc to save some effort. The stuff can be reused. Ive had it for over a year and it still works. I think it's called evaporust or the like. I will look when I go to the shop and confirm or correct.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Not sure I'll need it any time soon, these drums were the worst and they weren't that bad. Just a layer of surface rust from sitting in the salvage yard. But cleaning stuff like that is always worth having around.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I some how, grabbed the faces of the drums and forgot to wipe them down with a tack cloth. The result is some bad spots. I'm debating whether of not to redo them. They won't really be seen and they are, after all, just brake drums. I'll see how bad it bugs me.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
We won't tell. After I had my car on the road for 2 years, the front rotors kept bugging me about the rust rings where the pads didn't touch. Finally I had to tear it the rotors back off and paint all the bad areas.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I just finished repainting them. Couldn't help myself.
It would have bugged me too death.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Note to self: BRACKET LOCATIONS on the REAR END recalculated!!!
Radius rods 4.250" from axle housing end
Lower shock mount center line: 7.00" from axle housing end
Radius rods 4.250" from axle housing end
Lower shock mount center line: 7.00" from axle housing end
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I'm going to be ordering my rear end set up very soon. I have a question for you guys. 36" or 40" total. That measurement is inclusive of the rear bracket and the rod ends. From your thoughts and experience, which would work best?
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
The 2"x4" is the location of the cross member. Ron's set up is 36". So, will 4" extra, help or hurt? WAIT.....that's what she said!
36"
40"
36"
40"
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old round fart
Well-Known Member
Will the 40" rod go to the same bracket as the front rods like CCR's bars? I love that look.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
The longer rods you're thinking of are used when a T has a bed and the rear end is set back further. I had thought about it and it is a good look. Imagined that they'd look awkward on my car, as I don't have the bed. I think they are 50".
I printed these pics and looked them over good at work. I'm probably going to go with 36", as Ron sells them. That's 30" rods and the 6" comes from the brackets and rod ends. 4" really didn't make that much of a difference, even when I laid them out last night. You can also see that in the pics. The angle they're going to be makes the difference slim to almost none. Plus, Ron's not going to use a gusset because the rod is 1"DOM and thick walled. Flex, if any, would be minimal.
I'm going to sleep on it tonight and call Ron with my decision tomorrow.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
This is CCR's set up for a standard body. These rear radius rods are 37.250". Remember, CCR does NOT stretch the frame for a stretch body, they move the engine and trans forward 8". That's why my cross member seems further forward.
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Edit: The cross member IS further forward.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Yer damn right I did! I'm not shy. Heck, I started doing that when the frame first arrived! BUT....."Let he who is free some sin, cast the first stone." Good friend of mine said that.
