Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

"Black Dahlia"

I checked out the QA1 Adjustable shocks I had used on my last build and they will give what I want. Mounted length is 14" with a 12" spring rated at 175lbs.. They're a little higher in cost, but they were worth it.
 
Shhhh........ our secret.
 
How hard would it be to replace the rear crossmember with one of the stepped back ones typically used for Model As to get axle clearance?
http://welderseries.com/blog/#!/Model-A-Rear-Crossmember/p/50878748/category=12959479
View attachment 12419

If I wasn't set on how my car will look or if I hadn't bought the panhard bar, that would have been a nice option. What I have planned will work. It's just not what I originally envisioned. I should have specified longer rear rails, when I had Ron build my frame, then I could have gone with a Watt's linkage, which is 10 times better than a panhard. But I wanted a shorter looking frame for my build theme, so I'm making concessions where I have to in order for it to work out.

If my posts read like I was disappointed, I'm not. I'm just logging the ups, downs and speed bumps involved with my build. The cool thing about building anything from basically nothing, is that you have the freedom to make changes when needed.
 
If I wasn't set on how my car will look or if I hadn't bought the panhard bar, that would have been a nice option. What I have planned will work. It's just not what I originally envisioned. I should have specified longer rear rails, when I had Ron build my frame, then I could have gone with a Watt's linkage, which is 10 times better than a panhard. But I wanted a shorter looking frame for my build theme, so I'm making concessions where I have to in order for it to work out.

If my posts read like I was disappointed, I'm not. I'm just logging the ups, downs and speed bumps involved with my build. The cool thing about building anything from basically nothing, is that you have the freedom to make changes when needed.

I hear ya. My plans and acquisitions seem to have followed your path. It's always a juggling act between what you picture in your head, the reality of how the parts you have come together, and the potential of how new ideas and parts can be incorporated.
 
That is kind of like why my build is taking so long to get started. I keep changing the design. I guess I just need to start and let the things fall where the May.
 
That is kind of like why my build is taking so long to get started. I keep changing the design. I guess I just need to start and let the things fall where the May.

Yup. My inability to finalize a design for the frame has probably already doomed my project. Because of the cost of having a custom frame built, and my meager budget, I'm paranoid that what I have built will turn out to be unworkable and I won't be able to afford to fix it or take a second shot. On top of that, I have "there has got to be a better way" paranoia.

Combined they've had things on hold for 2 years...just in time for my deteriorating health to make completion improbable.
 
UPDATE: Solution found to rear cross member clearance.

It came to me after a hard days work and a Bud Light.

Okay, when I tried to move the rear end assembly forward, it pulled the shocks forward also and placed them angling back from the upper mount. So, I'm going to weld an upper shock bracket forward of the other ones that are already there and cut the rear ones off. That will give me an 1 1/2" forward to get my clearance. I'm probably not explaining it clearly, but when I post pics of the finish, you'll get it. Clearance at the kick up and the axle tubes is plenty. Maybe another look at a pic will make it clearer.

 
The dreaded "10 minute time out" strikes again.

So, I called Ron and asked him to send me a couple shock mounts along with my panhard bar. You know Ron, "Sure, no problem.":D Now, some of you may be wondering, "Why not use the rear brackets, after you cut them off?" Here's why. That rear bracket is directly on the corner. In fact, it looks like a part of the cross bar. When I cut it off, I want to keep the integrity of that corner and the inside weld. I want to give myself enough of the corner to grind down and round off. I may have to run a bead, but we'll see.
 
How much interference are we talking about? Can you cut the front bracket off put a spacer bushing on the back one and reposition the front one?
 
How much interference are we talking about? Can you cut the front bracket off put a spacer bushing on the back one and reposition the front one?

Hmmm.... never considered that. Should have had a second beer.:D Yes, that would work as well. In fact.... that's brilliant! It'll keep me from cutting that corner off and, as it turns out, I have some round tube. Thank you very much, Henry!;)

Gawd, I love this place.:D
 
How about using the forward bracket and welding a new one forward of it and the rear bracket for your tail light?

You read my mind.

I wasted NO time in seeing if this would work. Check it out. Behold the clearance.:D





The forward tape, shows the new radius rod mount location.



As for a tail light mount, it's a very good possiblity. I had planned on using '37 Ford tail lights. I'll check to see how they'll mount.
 
Cool, you will only need to add a bracket to each side. I like it when little problems can be solved easily.
 
Yea, Henry's idea was a real winner.;)
 
You read my mind.

I wasted NO time in seeing if this would work. Check it out. Behold the clearance.:D





The forward tape, shows the new radius rod mount location.



As for a tail light mount, it's a very good possiblity. I had planned on using '37 Ford tail lights. I'll check to see how they'll mount.
Cruising along Fred, looking good, I plan on 37' taillights also, they are a close match to my headlights 14051624_1260927833919342_6353992690377644776_n.jpg
 
I just dig the streamlined shape. I hope I can adapt them.
 

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