tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
New parts coming soon...........
"Black Dahlia"
- Thread starter tfeverfred
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Well, my mom is doing better, so it's back to building. Yesterday, I welding in my remaining brackets. I also installed Ron's panhard bar.
An area of concern is the panhard bar. Using the mock up shocks, all looks good, but when I lowered everything to a 12.5" ride height, I only have 1" of clearance between the panhard bar and the top of the rearend. Will this change after everything else, like wheels, tires and the correct shocks are installed or should I use a panhard bar with a bend on the axle side?
An area of concern is the panhard bar. Using the mock up shocks, all looks good, but when I lowered everything to a 12.5" ride height, I only have 1" of clearance between the panhard bar and the top of the rearend. Will this change after everything else, like wheels, tires and the correct shocks are installed or should I use a panhard bar with a bend on the axle side?
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Something like this.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Remember the rod goes up when the rear goes up. Take the shock loose and go through suspension travel and check it out.
JeffK
Member
Wheels and tires shouldn't affect panhard angle, they do not change the relationship of the axle to the frame, but shocks will. Depending on where they settle with weight on them. The j-bar looks like a good option or a taller mount on the rear. You want the panhard as close to level at ride height as possible.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
ORF, I completely forgot about that. I gave myself a head slap.
I took the shocks loose and the rod was level. But I also noticed I have quite a bit of the rod ends out of the rod. It looks like I either need a longer rod or remove the axle mount and move it in more. I'll get with Ron about cutting me a longer rod. I'd rather do that, than cut out and redo the weld what I have now.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Jeff. For some reason, I'm working like I'm in a sort of daze and forgetting a lot of stuff I've been told and read before.
mountainman
Member
J-bar will give you clearance but will not change the operational angle of panhard bar. The arc of the panhard bar is prescribed by a straight line through the pivot points of the bar, not the shape of the bar. We always say the "panhard bar should be level" when we should say that the pivot points should be level. This gives an equal amount of sagitta in both directions of vertical axle movement.
Does the slight difference with mounts not level matter?? Open for debate and subject to intended purpose of car. Calculations are easy for those with inquiring minds.
Does the slight difference with mounts not level matter?? Open for debate and subject to intended purpose of car. Calculations are easy for those with inquiring minds.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
J-bar will give you clearance but will not change the operational angle of panhard bar. The arc of the panhard bar is prescribed by a straight line through the pivot points of the bar, not the shape of the bar. We always say the "panhard bar should be level" when we should say that the pivot points should be level. This gives an equal amount of sagitta in both directions of vertical axle movement.
Does the slight difference with mounts not level matter?? Open for debate and subject to intended purpose of car. Calculations are easy for those with inquiring minds.
Thanks, Mountainman. I did some measuring tonight and my earlier concerns were premature and have been addressed. A J Bar, as you stated, would not change the fact that the desired setting is a straight line through the pivot points of the mounts. I should be fine with my set up.
JeffK
Member
I agree, the panhard has more to do with the roll center so if you aint racing it I doubt it is that big of a deal. I think its more about aesthetics in these cars (keeping the rear centered/appearance from the rear view) or "fit over function"
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
This is the other part I received. Now, if you guys remember, my original plan for this car was to use a Ford 9" rear end., but finances kept that from happening. Some time after I started my build, a good friend in a chat room I frequent made me an offer on this 9" pumpkin with Trac-Loc. I turned him down, as I had decided on the S10.
A few months ago, I changed my mind and took him up on his offer. It took a while for him to send it, but since it was a GIFT, I didn't rush him. My plan for it is, to take my time and build a 9" rear end on the side. When it's done, I'll swap it in. I'm in no hurry, so updates on this side project won't come any time soon.
This is just another example of how cool and caring the Hot Rod community is. Brothers.
A few months ago, I changed my mind and took him up on his offer. It took a while for him to send it, but since it was a GIFT, I didn't rush him. My plan for it is, to take my time and build a 9" rear end on the side. When it's done, I'll swap it in. I'm in no hurry, so updates on this side project won't come any time soon.
This is just another example of how cool and caring the Hot Rod community is. Brothers.
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old round fart
Well-Known Member
Cool find Fred! Just use the same brackets with your measurements and you have a spare rear end just in case!
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Ya know, that was my thinking, but slightly more dramatic. Here's the movie scene:
A Hot Rodder goes out and has his ass handed to him in a street race for big money with a New model Mustang. He goes back to the garage, calls his buddies and a "mid night thrash session" goes into action. Hours later, the T Bucket with a newly swapped BBC and a 9" posi rear end with 4:11 gears rolls out and takes back the streets. Of course, there's a woman involved. She wants him to give up his street racing lifestyle. He dumps her.
Back to reality. This rear end will end up in my car, when I get bored with the S10 rear end.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
More info and a clarification on that 9" rear end. It is NOT a Trac-Loc. But it has an after market posi and the gear ratio is 3:25. He told me, that's a nice street gear for a T Bucket and he's owned quite a few. So, I'll take his word for it. Plans are still the same, it'll be a side project. So, I started a "curse jar" to save money for it. It's got about $25 in it, so far.
JeffK
Member
That's a sweet deal Fred, I got about 900 bones in my 3rd member!More info and a clarification on that 9" rear end. It is NOT a Trac-Loc. But it has an after market posi and the gear ratio is 3:25. He told me, that's a nice street gear for a T Bucket and he's owned quite a few. So, I'll take his word for it. Plans are still the same, it'll be a side project. So, I started a "curse jar" to save money for it. It's got about $25 in it, so far.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I'm at a stand still. All brackets are welded in and I sit at night looking at my work so far. I still have a few welds I want to bondo, but my main thought is paint. I rattled canned my last one and it held up great. But since then, there are a lot of different treatments. Guys, shoot me some suggestions. Thanks in advance.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I've heard a lot of good things about success with Summit paint. R/C model guys are using epoxy paint that is real user friendly. It's called Klass Coat.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Thanks, guys. I'll check them out. Kinda busy with other stuff today, but productive.
