Randy Steel
Active Member
Here are some updated pictures. As the old saying goes..."One step at a time."
Covid Project - 80's Project T-Rod
- Thread starter Randy Steel
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Randy Steel
Active Member
Getting the body bed initially positioned and mounted.
Randy Steel
Active Member
Thanks. The Rustoleum paint actually turned out pretty well. The 302 was rebuilt in the 80's and a performance cam was installed. I was told that it doesn't have a lot of miles and was stored for some period of time. So, I just replaced a couple of freeze plugs and cleaned it up.You're making great progress. Looking good!
PS - Love the way you detailed those valve covers. Any mods to your "Mexican block" 302?
Randy Steel
Active Member
Well....after a taking a nice long winter break from the project, I'm now back to making some new progress. In this pic, I used a piece of diamond-pattern grill steel (purchased at Home Depot) and painted it an aluminum color for radiator protection. Used the black push-through zip ties to secure it to the radiator. Additionally, I used a little tester's model paint (aluminum color) to match the color the radiator and grill. Overall, it fit nicely and turned out pretty good. Only cost me about $25.
Randy Steel
Active Member
I realize the pickup bed looked slanted with the body line. I decided to use some rubber strips to create a spacer. I wasn't sure of the best approach, but the hard rubber works. I plan to fiberglass over it to give it a smooth transitionary look. I'll get around to that in the next few weeks. I also used a small body saw and cut out the back to assist in getting the fuel tank installed. In the end, I'll end up installing some hinges on the "tail-gate" and getting it re-mounted.
Randy Steel
Active Member
For the fuel tank, I ended up purchasing a 10-gallon aluminum fuel cell. It came with a small fuel level sending unit (0-90 Ohm). There is a 6" slanted aluminum sump that required some additional thinking and complicated matters. I went around in circles trying to determine how to get the fuel line to mount and yet clear the back part of the body frame. Additionally, I had to cut off the small aluminum mounting feet/tabs in order to get it to fit correctly. I'll end up fabricating my own mounting hardware to secure the tank.
Randy Steel
Active Member
I ended up welding some steel stock to the frame to get the body to secure to the frame. I also welded some square stock for the fuel tank and eventually the battery mount.
Randy Steel
Active Member
Got my fuel line cut and properly aligned to mate with the fuel tank. Added the correct copper-to-AN-6 fitting.
Great progress! It's looking really good. Suggestion: instead of the rubber shims, make yourself a rigid piece of fiberglass the same shape as the shims and glass them in place. Since you plan to glass the bed to the body, bear in mind that the glass will flex over time creating cracks, and I'm concerned that the rubber shims will heighten this problem.
Randy Steel
Active Member
Yah...it's a 3/8" copper compression fitting with a ferrule sleeve. This allows me to transition the copper to a flexible line with AN6 fittings.
Randy Steel
Active Member
Thanks for your input on this. You make a good point on the flexing and potential cracking issue. I was wondering how I would create and/or mold a spacer that would work. It's curves up like a moon, and yet is wedged and grows in thickness. I'll have to think about this. I could attempt to create a mold using plaster of paris...laying a sheet of plastic wrap inside the hardened mold, and then pouring fiberglass or epoxy in the mold to develop a spacer. However, I'm not sure if I'd capture the correct curvature...I'm guessing it would bend and conform under some pressure. I may experiment and see if I could get something to work. Even with a solid fiberglass wedge, I'm wondering if it would still flex and possibly crack over time.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Just checking, it looked like a hose fitting with that bell mouth.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
You could make your wedge with bondo. Drill two holes on each side and pile on the bondo. Tighten the screws until you get it even. Slice off the excess bondo and allow to dry. Put fiberglass inside and outside and do the bodywork. Of course sand bed surface as usual before applying glass.
Randy Steel
Active Member
Got around to getting the steering linkage and column figured out. Ended up using a 3/4" heim joint to create a lower support mount.
Randy Steel
Active Member
Next steps over the next couple of months...getting the windshield posts fitted, body work, and paint. Purchased my paint and clear from The Coating Store (UreChem)....canary yellow base coat, clear, and red and orange for adding flames. This will be my next big challenge.
Randy Steel
Active Member
I was able to get my shifter mounted. It took some heavy thinking to determine how I was going to mount the shifter...ended up fabricating my own brackets. I used the holes on the bottom of the output shaft housing to accommodate the rear all-thread U-bolt. It's solid and it the shifter feels good.
Randy Steel
Active Member
I thought I would post an update. I finally got around to starting on all of the body work. Dashpanel, windshield posts and getting the bed glassed in place. For the bed, I ended up removing the wedge rubber spacers and used bondo as a filler, and then covered over it with bondo glass. It's not as much fun when you're doing the work in your backyard shed at 95 degrees with box fans...lol.
Randy Steel
Active Member
The windshield posts are from CCR. Covered them up in blue tape and did a lot of bondo-glass build up. Utilized a 3/4" copper pipe and my digital angle gauge to assist with the placement. My windshield frame distance ended up being 41 inches.
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