Keepers build
- Thread starter Keeper
- Start date
Keeper
Active Member
Not much today, I started on the woodwork. Since the my woodshop is in the basement, I moved the body inside. Makes things easier then running up and down the stairs fitting pieces.
I am using 7 layer 3/4 ply, first up was just a starter strip in the back.
Inspecting my work:
Next up was a template for the inside firewall board. I did not have any cardboard so some newspaper worked instead.
Cut out the template: Used a router to round the inside edges, helped with fitting since the inside corners are all rounded.
Please no comments on the "dusty rose" carpet! It was actually in the living room when we bought the house, yuk. Now it serves as concrete cover to keep the dogs from wiping out when they fly down the stairs.
Found that there was a ridge at the top, so I had to use the router again to make it a tight fit.
Just a quick shot of the temp work room. We actually have a 2 level basement, the woodshop is through the door there on the bottom level.
Tomorrow I will add the toe board and then start building the seats.
I am using 7 layer 3/4 ply, first up was just a starter strip in the back.
Inspecting my work:
Next up was a template for the inside firewall board. I did not have any cardboard so some newspaper worked instead.
Cut out the template: Used a router to round the inside edges, helped with fitting since the inside corners are all rounded.
Please no comments on the "dusty rose" carpet! It was actually in the living room when we bought the house, yuk. Now it serves as concrete cover to keep the dogs from wiping out when they fly down the stairs.
Found that there was a ridge at the top, so I had to use the router again to make it a tight fit.
Just a quick shot of the temp work room. We actually have a 2 level basement, the woodshop is through the door there on the bottom level.
Tomorrow I will add the toe board and then start building the seats.
Keeper
Active Member
Okay its time to build some seats:
Okay, a couple months ago I had determined my seat rake and height using a stash of 2x4's, 2x6's, plywood and foam. Now all I had to do was make it all work:
First up lower seat supports:
Then came the base: Lots of tweaks, sanding, more tweaks. Then I finally realized that they do have to be so exact as vinyl, foam and side panels will all take up space, once I figured that out things when a little faster.
Since I have no padding on my ass I wanted a soft seat, so I decided I was going to use webbing to make things more comfy, the original cutout for the webbing:
After showing this on another site, it was pointed out that the opening for the webbing was to small as I would be sitting on the plywood and the webbing would not be doing anything, so I adjusted the width and made the openings bigger:
I then attached the supports to the base:
Once the base was built I started on the back. The first "design" did not work out as planned, so instead of wasting a good hunk of plywood, I used it to make a template:
I then transferred to another piece and cut out the back:
Once the back was in, I started looking a little closer and realized there was a couple inches of wasted space in this design:
So I took a little from some chair building and decided to make a sculpted back (think muskoka chair), I mean what the hell, if you are going to do it, might as well make it complicated!!
Here is the back with the webbing area cut out, the strip in top is the template for the wood needed for the sculpted area:
Transferred to some more plywood cut out and glued up. Then came the fun of making it fit as I wanted, which included sanding, sanding, some more sanding, shredding the last belt I had before finishing, and you guessed it more sanding. Here is the result:
The shape of the cutout mirrors the contours of the body:
Then came the webbing, I have been told, and I am sure I will here again that I used to much webbing, but webbing is cheap and its easier to remove a belt at a later date:
I had to go out looking for "seat" webbing instead of "back" webbing yesterday, luckily I found some, it has less stretch then the back stuff, anyway, here is the start of the bottom:
I have a new appreciation for those that do this work a lot, after doing the bottom and back my hands HURT from stretching the webbing out!
Bottom finished up:
Then I did the back, this was a little different due to the curves, but the same result:
Here they are installed:
Even with out any foam, they are pretty comfy. I was told the best way to test them out is to just sit in them for a couple hours, I think I will do that while watching the hawks tonight, should be a good test.
Now that these are finished I can finish clean up the wood in the cab and take it back outside for some glass work.
Okay, a couple months ago I had determined my seat rake and height using a stash of 2x4's, 2x6's, plywood and foam. Now all I had to do was make it all work:
First up lower seat supports:
Then came the base: Lots of tweaks, sanding, more tweaks. Then I finally realized that they do have to be so exact as vinyl, foam and side panels will all take up space, once I figured that out things when a little faster.
Since I have no padding on my ass I wanted a soft seat, so I decided I was going to use webbing to make things more comfy, the original cutout for the webbing:
After showing this on another site, it was pointed out that the opening for the webbing was to small as I would be sitting on the plywood and the webbing would not be doing anything, so I adjusted the width and made the openings bigger:
I then attached the supports to the base:
Once the base was built I started on the back. The first "design" did not work out as planned, so instead of wasting a good hunk of plywood, I used it to make a template:
I then transferred to another piece and cut out the back:
Once the back was in, I started looking a little closer and realized there was a couple inches of wasted space in this design:
So I took a little from some chair building and decided to make a sculpted back (think muskoka chair), I mean what the hell, if you are going to do it, might as well make it complicated!!
Here is the back with the webbing area cut out, the strip in top is the template for the wood needed for the sculpted area:
Transferred to some more plywood cut out and glued up. Then came the fun of making it fit as I wanted, which included sanding, sanding, some more sanding, shredding the last belt I had before finishing, and you guessed it more sanding. Here is the result:
The shape of the cutout mirrors the contours of the body:
Then came the webbing, I have been told, and I am sure I will here again that I used to much webbing, but webbing is cheap and its easier to remove a belt at a later date:
I had to go out looking for "seat" webbing instead of "back" webbing yesterday, luckily I found some, it has less stretch then the back stuff, anyway, here is the start of the bottom:
I have a new appreciation for those that do this work a lot, after doing the bottom and back my hands HURT from stretching the webbing out!
Bottom finished up:
Then I did the back, this was a little different due to the curves, but the same result:
Here they are installed:
Even with out any foam, they are pretty comfy. I was told the best way to test them out is to just sit in them for a couple hours, I think I will do that while watching the hawks tonight, should be a good test.
Now that these are finished I can finish clean up the wood in the cab and take it back outside for some glass work.
Ya done good there Keeper! I take it you are planning to have the sides and back made up as one piece. When you do the foam, add a little extra at the bottom to act as a bolster. It helps support the lower back making longer trips less fatiquing. Will your seat bottom lift out with the risers?
Ron
Ron
Keeper
Active Member
Thanks for all the comments!
To answer some of the questions:
The webbing is attached using 3 to 5 3/4 staples on each end. I used more on the bottom due to the stretch.
Yes the lower seats will lift out with the base attached. Should make doing the carpet a little easier!
The plan from here is, 2 inch foam base on the bottom, using 1 inch to build up shape, the back will start with 1 inch foam and another 1 inch for shape.
Once the shape is complete, I have some Marine vinyl and 3/8 foam backing to make the panels.
To check to see how the seats felt, I sat in the bucket and watched the hockey game last night
To answer some of the questions:
The webbing is attached using 3 to 5 3/4 staples on each end. I used more on the bottom due to the stretch.
Yes the lower seats will lift out with the base attached. Should make doing the carpet a little easier!
The plan from here is, 2 inch foam base on the bottom, using 1 inch to build up shape, the back will start with 1 inch foam and another 1 inch for shape.
Once the shape is complete, I have some Marine vinyl and 3/8 foam backing to make the panels.
To check to see how the seats felt, I sat in the bucket and watched the hockey game last night
Hmmm how are you going to fasten the seat bottom to the floor?I hope you didn't plan on just setting it in there.Thanks for all the comments!
To answer some of the questions:
The webbing is attached using 3 to 5 3/4 staples on each end. I used more on the bottom due to the stretch.
Yes the lower seats will lift out with the base attached. Should make doing the carpet a little easier!
The plan from here is, 2 inch foam base on the bottom, using 1 inch to build up shape, the back will start with 1 inch foam and another 1 inch for shape.
Once the shape is complete, I have some Marine vinyl and 3/8 foam backing to make the panels.
To check to see how the seats felt, I sat in the bucket and watched the hockey game last night
Keeper
Active Member
To fasten the seats to the floor I plan on using some slide in catches at the back. Then along the front I will use some L brackets, there will be a flap of vinyl that will cover any brackets.
I really wanted to figure out a way to use the same style they used in 60/70's rear seats, the rear slides into brackets, then the front has a bar across the front that you snap into some hooks. I am still working on that one, I would love to be able to pull out the seats without any tools.
The top will slide down onto some catches on the top, and I have some industrial velcro that will hold the bottom in place. Let me see if I can find the clips I want to use.
I still need to cut the hole for the seat belts, but I wanted to get all the webbing in place first.
Had a small set back today. When ordering a custom tank from RPM, make sure you take the measurements with the body in place. I did not account for the body pushing into the trunk area, now the bung at the bottom for the fuel line sits right on top of the frame.....AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!
I really wanted to figure out a way to use the same style they used in 60/70's rear seats, the rear slides into brackets, then the front has a bar across the front that you snap into some hooks. I am still working on that one, I would love to be able to pull out the seats without any tools.
The top will slide down onto some catches on the top, and I have some industrial velcro that will hold the bottom in place. Let me see if I can find the clips I want to use.
I still need to cut the hole for the seat belts, but I wanted to get all the webbing in place first.
Had a small set back today. When ordering a custom tank from RPM, make sure you take the measurements with the body in place. I did not account for the body pushing into the trunk area, now the bung at the bottom for the fuel line sits right on top of the frame.....AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!
2old2fast
Active Member
Holesaw!!!!! dave
Keeper
Active Member
I can follow that thought just fine. Good idea. Though some hood pins would work as well..hmmmmm
On the hole saw thing, well its the rear frame cross member its hitting, I do not want to put any holes in there I don't have to.
I can move the tank back a couple of inches, but trunk space is small enough as it is, losing another couple inches due to my stupidity is not something I want to do!
Keeper
Active Member
Trunk space???!!!
dave {sorry}
haha I know, that is why I am extending the bed a bit. At least give me enough room to put a bag or something in.
Its one of those "I have an idea" things...lol
2old2fast
Active Member
Keeper, just a thought for you. I know youv'e already attached your uprights to your seat base, but if you were to remove them and fasten them to the floor w/a piece of ply across the front,[high side] then all you'd need is a couple of cleats on the bottom of the seat board that fit behind the new front board to keep it in place plus that gives you an extra storage space under the seat, that's how I did mine, seems to work well.
dave
dave
Keeper
Active Member
I have heard of folks trying it, problem is its expensive, like really really expensive. Its also not really firm enough for a seat bottom.
Ted you thought of a "saddle" tank idea? might make it easier to hide. Would be a pain to fab, but I am sure you could do it
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