Keepers build

[Keeper]

Keeper, just a thought for you. I know youv'e already attached your uprights to your seat base, but if you were to remove them and fasten them to the floor w/a piece of ply across the front,[high side] then all you'd need is a couple of cleats on the bottom of the seat board that fit behind the new front board to keep it in place plus that gives you an extra storage space under the seat, that's how I did mine, seems to work well.


dave

I thought about that, but if I leave it this way, I still have storage and I do not have to lift the seat to get to it. Of course as I get further into it I may end up changing it as I am still working on where all my wiring is going to go! Well that and the battery.

 

[Ted Brown]

I thought about that, but if I leave it this way, I still have storage and I do not have to lift the seat to get to it. Of course as I get further into it I may end up changing it as I am still working on where all my wiring is going to go! Well that and the battery.

I would think about mounting the battery as close to the starter as you can find room to do so... Keeps all your main cables short, much better, and be sure to use very good engine to frame grounds, and back to battery.
I like to keep the wiring as simple as you can, maybe a circuit breaker or two for the big stuff, lights...

 

[guilld]

I would think about mounting the battery as close to the starter as you can find room to do so... Keeps all your main cables short, much better, and be sure to use very good engine to frame grounds, and back to battery.
I like to keep the wiring as simple as you can, maybe a circuit breaker or two for the big stuff, lights...

I would spend the extra bucks and spring for an Odessey dry cell battery. I think you could probably mount it under the dash on the passenger side, They are like the size of a MC battery and you can buy their aluminum mount and mount it right to whatever.

We bought one about 4 years ago and have had zero problems. We put ours in the trunk of a 32 and it has started a 350 without a glitch.

 

[2old2fast]

N

I thought about that, but if I leave it this way, I still have storage and I do not have to lift the seat to get to it. Of course as I get further into it I may end up changing it as I am still working on where all my wiring is going to go! Well that and the battery.

Not trying to argue w/you keeper, but keep in mind that whatever you put under the seat in it's current config. will either vibrate forward or slide forward under braking.

dave

also , you could make a "well" in your floor to mount your bat. possibly?

 

[Keeper]

I would spend the extra bucks and spring for an Odessey dry cell battery. I think you could probably mount it under the dash on the passenger side, They are like the size of a MC battery and you can buy their aluminum mount and mount it right to whatever.

We bought one about 4 years ago and have had zero problems. We put ours in the trunk of a 32 and it has started a 350 without a glitch.

I do have an Odessey. I am going to use the pc680. Its a small thing!

 

[Keeper]

N

Not trying to argue w/you keeper, but keep in mind that whatever you put under the seat in it's current config. will either vibrate forward or slide forward under braking.

dave

also , you could make a "well" in your floor to mount your bat. possibly?

I have thought about the well. But if I can get away with it I would rather not cut the floor up anymore.

As for the stuff flying forward, you have a good point

 

[guilld]

I have thought about the well. But if I can get away with it I would rather not cut the floor up anymore.

As for the stuff flying forward, you have a good point

I purchased a couple of tool roll up bags from bucket boss. They are made of canvas and are not prone to slide. They also hold a lot of tools in a small area and do not rattle.

 

[Keeper]

Today I spent some time making my shock mounts. I missed a few pics along the way, as it tends to happen when I am working. Anyway from my post on the shock mounts I went ahead and made up some to bolt to the batwing:

Here are the before tabs: At least I remembered this one...lol I started with 1 1/2 inch 3/16 steel. They ended up as 1 3/16 width. The left most tab was the final size before I started drilling.

Then came the task of making the upper mounts, I wanted these mount to pretty much disappear if you were looking at the car from the front. I started by pulling the shock out to 1/2 its travel. It gives me about 2 inches of travel up and down, that should be plenty.

Then I found the angle I wanted them to sit at, I wanted to top mount to be in line with the edge of the rad shell, that put the shock at about 35degrees. This is pretty close here:

Then I missed about 40 steps of heating, bending, screwing up the first attempt, heating, bending using the press instead, cutting, grinding, sanding, to end up with this:

Here it is mounted:

I still need to weld the upper piece on, but I have to hit the metal shop for the correct size tube:

Then I had to match it on the other side which is always fun trying to match the angles, after much trial error, bending, unbending, rebending, grinding....(I think you get the picture) I ended up with 2:

Now the moment you have all been waiting for! (Not really...lol)

Here is a shot from about 5 feet in front:

I could not completely hide them, but they are damn close!

Before I go any further I need to pick up some tube for the top, all I had on hand was 1 inch 1/4 wall tube, the upper and lower mounts will use 7/16 g8 bolts. So I need some smaller tubing, unless I can find some bushings to fit.

 

[ruggs]

Keeper,
Your getting better with the clamps. You didn't need a clamp for the clamp thats doing the clamping....looks good as always....ruggs

 

[Ted Brown]

Looking clean, I myself, would pull the shock out farther, as you still have more weight than you think that will be on them, including the driver and passenger, so the frame will go down even more, and you don't want to bottom out the shocks on the way down, up is OK, but not down...

 

[Keeper]

Looking clean, I myself, would pull the shock out farther, as you still have more weight than you think that will be on them, including the driver and passenger, so the frame will go down even more, and you don't want to bottom out the shocks on the way down, up is OK, but not down...

I can do that, I have about 1/2 to 1 inch of wiggle room to move things around before mounting them for good.

 

[Keeper]

Keeper,
Your getting better with the clamps. You didn't need a clamp for the clamp thats doing the clamping....looks good as always....ruggs

To much time working alone!

 

[Ted Brown]

To much time working alone!

I hear you there, I many times use clamps to hold clamps, when you don't have a helper handy, clamps of all types are your best friends... PS, You want to have the shock in the center of it's travel, or up just a tad with the car fully loaded driving down the road... I have found this to work great....

 

[putz]

Another step bites the dust !:kiltdance:

 

[EX JUNK]

Very nicely done.

Jim

 

[409T]

I like 'em.

 

[Gerry]

Simple, tidy and clean, just the way I like stuff. Not sure but I bet you could drill them with a few well sized holes for an open look, thats if you wanted to. It also struck me that if you didnt want them right in line with the rad, you could move them inward a little and loose the bracket behind the damper when viewed from the front .JMHO

Gerry

 

[Keeper]

Simple, tidy and clean, just the way I like stuff. Not sure but I bet you could drill them with a few well sized holes for an open look, thats if you wanted to. It also struck me that if you didnt want them right in line with the rad, you could move them inward a little and loose the bracket behind the damper when viewed from the front .JMHO

Gerry

I thought about some speed holes, would have to draw some out see if I like it.

As for moving them in a touch, if I take Teds advise and move them up a touch they fall in line with the shock. I tried playing with it today, but with the nice weather and open garage door, well all the neighbours stopped by, so I got next to nothing done.

 

[Youngster]

If you haven't used accent holes yet, why start now. Your mounts are so clean looking holes might complicate the simple clean lines.

Ron

 

[Keeper]

Thanks Ron,

I was more concerned with them whistling! Since they are run parallel with the frame...lol