T Bucket Interiors
- Thread starter tfeverfred
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Lake Modified
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tfeverfred
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I've been looking at my Rodder's Journal issue featuring the clones of Norm's T Bucket and I've been studying HAMBer Mr.Mac's interior shot. The side panel's and door panel look like something I could at least give a try. It looks like the material I found: https://greatlakesskipper.com/rinke...foam-back-marine-grade-boat-vinyl-linear-yard could be attached to 1/8" Luan and attached as per Mr. Mac's interior. The bottom piece will be 3" or 4" foam on 3/4" marine grade plywood with holes and webbing. Back to basics.
Looking at the Speedway interior kit instructions, https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/tbucket_interior.pdf , I'm considering a 3" foam back piece covered with the same material as above, on Luan and attached to the back of the body with: 3M™ Dual Lock™ SJ3871, Acrylic Adhesive, Black | iTapeStore , instead of velcro.
Doing my interior this way will take full advantage of the extra interior room I'm paying for in the stretched body. I think if I take my time, which I have plenty of, it'll look pretty good.
Oh....... all in black.
Looking at the Speedway interior kit instructions, https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/tbucket_interior.pdf , I'm considering a 3" foam back piece covered with the same material as above, on Luan and attached to the back of the body with: 3M™ Dual Lock™ SJ3871, Acrylic Adhesive, Black | iTapeStore , instead of velcro.
Doing my interior this way will take full advantage of the extra interior room I'm paying for in the stretched body. I think if I take my time, which I have plenty of, it'll look pretty good.
Oh....... all in black.
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old round fart
Well-Known Member
Good plan Fred. I’m looking forward to watching.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I had a rethink on the panel and seat upholstery. Considering I'll be folding material over some curved sections and stapling or gluing to Luan, the previous 1/4" foam backed vinyl would be too thick to staple or glue securely. So, I found some marine grade vinyl that doesn't have a foam backing and has flex built into it. I am unable to edit my last post. But here it is: https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/marine-vinyl-fabric?variant=13535168902
Another plus, this vinyl is a lot cheaper in cost.
Another plus, this vinyl is a lot cheaper in cost.
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old round fart
Well-Known Member
Cheaper AND better? Marine would have the hold up better in our applications.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
The second selection IS marine grade. It doesn't have the 1/4" foam backing all over. Allow me to clarify..... the first choice had 1/4" foam ALL OVER, which would make folding and attaching the material to the Luan a struggle. By using the second MARINE vinyl, without the backing all over, 1/4" foam could be glued to JUST the Luan. When covered with the MARINE vinyl, the edges that fold over would be easier to glue and have excellent adhesion. Thus, the second selection of MARINE grade vinyl, which is CHEAPER by roughly $10 a yard, would be a BETTER choice for this particular application.
The panels could be done like this:
No-Sew door panel tech...
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I crunched some numbers today and it looks like I could do my entire interior for less than $500. Some materials will be from online, while the bulk is available locally. That's side panels and seat. I have a source for free carpet, which is minimal. I'll post pics, when I begin. Which won't be long.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Guys, I think I found a solution for covering that inner curve in T Bucket interiors. It's water based casting tape. It's what they used to cast my hand, when I broke it and it's plenty strong. It's like fiberglass, after it sets. When I went to get my cast removed, they had to cut it off! Read the product details. The plan, I hope, is to apply it to the corners, let it set (this stuff sets in minutes), remove and cover with foam and vinyl. It's cheap enough to give a shot. This could probably be used for all kinds of "car guy stuff". Take a look and give me your opinions.
Shop
Shop
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Plaster of Paris and burlap may be cheaper
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Maybe, but this is water and solvent proof. It's composed of a water activated resin. Plaster of paris would dissolve, if it got wet. Plus, this stuff doesn't make a mess. It took the doctor 10 minutes to make my cast and he wet it in a sink.
Maybe you can use is expanded metal as your backer/ form for your curves.
Gibraltar Building Products 3.4 Galvanized Diamond Mesh Lath-13192 - The Home Depot
Gibraltar Building Products 3.4 Galvanized Diamond Mesh Lath-13192 - The Home Depot
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
That's another option. Thanks!
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I have a question for you guys that have done a T Bucket interior or worked with ABS sheets or Luan wood in general. Will a 1/8" Luan panel make that inside curve in a T Bucket body? Or would ABS panel be better and if so, how thin?
I know the cast stuff I found would work, but if I used Luan or an ABS sheet, I could make the panels all one piece.
I know the cast stuff I found would work, but if I used Luan or an ABS sheet, I could make the panels all one piece.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Never mind, found what I wanted to know. I'll be using 1/8" ABS for the inside panels.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I was search solutions for the back piece and found this website:
Welcome to Catalina Custom Upholstery / Showcase Gallery / Street Rods
It shows a few ideas on making an interior in a T Bucket. What caught my eye was a possible solution for the back panel. I'm assuming two pieces, one on each side, were used. What I don't like is the amount of interior space it appears to use. Maybe a couple pieces that narrow as they approach the top edge of the body would fix that. That would create a slant to mount a back piece to.
The CCR body has a 1 1/2" ledge that would support 2 or 3 sloped pieces. They could be 'glassed in with minimal effort and the back piece attached accordingly.
Welcome to Catalina Custom Upholstery / Showcase Gallery / Street Rods
It shows a few ideas on making an interior in a T Bucket. What caught my eye was a possible solution for the back panel. I'm assuming two pieces, one on each side, were used. What I don't like is the amount of interior space it appears to use. Maybe a couple pieces that narrow as they approach the top edge of the body would fix that. That would create a slant to mount a back piece to.
The CCR body has a 1 1/2" ledge that would support 2 or 3 sloped pieces. They could be 'glassed in with minimal effort and the back piece attached accordingly.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
While I earlier declared my wanting to do my own interior, that will have to change a little. And the issue is the back panel for the bench seat. Here's what I found.
The rear angle in the body interior is 45*. It follows the same angle as the frame kick up. From the bottom of that angle to the back of the body is about 7-8". If the seat back panel followed that angle, I'd be leaning too far back, when sitting. My thoughts are, I'd either have to have a 5 or 6" thick foam back panel attached to the body or just have a 5 or 6" of space for storage behind a separate seat panel. I'm leaning towards having the storage space because a thick back panel would have that dreaded "Fad T" look and that will NOT happen.
Now, a bench seat is typical T Bucket fare and it's a design that has long been used because it works and it works very well. But, this isn't a typical T Bucket build. Combining 2 different styles goes against everything I learned in art school. So, for a DIY bench to work, it would have to look like it belonged and what I had in mind is beyond my skill level. And ALL of this is waiting for the body, which is about 2 weeks away. So, it's theories and subject to change. If ANYONE has a solution for a suitable size back panel for a bench seat and it's location.... PLEASE chime in. I'm honestly at my wits end.
So, I'm back to 2 separate seats. Probably these.
They're roadster seats and I've always liked the way they look. They're a clean, functional design. They fit my budget and my ass. I may use 2" channel to get them off the floor a little or not. They're 5.25" at the front bolster. Will they fit behind that front cross bar? I'm not sure. They're 18" front to back and my math says they should. If need be, they could still be removable. I won't have storage under the seats, but I'll have that space behind them for my fuse panel and a little storage. Importantly, I won't lose any leg room and I'm still going to do my own interior panels.
The rear angle in the body interior is 45*. It follows the same angle as the frame kick up. From the bottom of that angle to the back of the body is about 7-8". If the seat back panel followed that angle, I'd be leaning too far back, when sitting. My thoughts are, I'd either have to have a 5 or 6" thick foam back panel attached to the body or just have a 5 or 6" of space for storage behind a separate seat panel. I'm leaning towards having the storage space because a thick back panel would have that dreaded "Fad T" look and that will NOT happen.
Now, a bench seat is typical T Bucket fare and it's a design that has long been used because it works and it works very well. But, this isn't a typical T Bucket build. Combining 2 different styles goes against everything I learned in art school. So, for a DIY bench to work, it would have to look like it belonged and what I had in mind is beyond my skill level.
And ALL of this is waiting for the body, which is about 2 weeks away. So, it's theories and subject to change. If ANYONE has a solution for a suitable size back panel for a bench seat and it's location.... PLEASE chime in. I'm honestly at my wits end.So, I'm back to 2 separate seats. Probably these.
They're roadster seats and I've always liked the way they look. They're a clean, functional design. They fit my budget and my ass.
I may use 2" channel to get them off the floor a little or not. They're 5.25" at the front bolster. Will they fit behind that front cross bar? I'm not sure. They're 18" front to back and my math says they should. If need be, they could still be removable. I won't have storage under the seats, but I'll have that space behind them for my fuse panel and a little storage. Importantly, I won't lose any leg room and I'm still going to do my own interior panels.
