The Yeti's 27 T Build

[fletcherson]

I really wanted a T56 to row thru the gears but I knew that was out of the question when I started this.

I had thought of making a hand clutch (like a motorcycle) on the shifter handle using a vac booster to assist in pulling the clutch but I abandoned that idea very quickly.

I have a t56 that I considered using behind the 427 in my t but it’s a very big gear box... too big for mine. I opted to go with the t10 but still had fun getting the pedals and linkage to workout. Fortunately I have a flat floor so the gas pedal is sort of over the bell housing but the column splits the clutch and break pedals. I get the size 13 issue.

 

[fluidfloyd]

These pic may help a little.

View attachment 22875

View attachment 22876

Yes, this would work if Yeti had his master cylinder turned a round. As he now has it he just needs to put a small bell crank in front of that cylinder. Long rod in tension, Short rod in compression. As I now have seen his drawing notes on his picture I will draw up a quick layout later today. It is now 4:30 am and as been a very long day. Plenty of heat and humidity here in the shop. I apologize as I am still jumping trough a number of hoops with the VA with plenty more down the road. It is what it is!
George

 

[fluidfloyd]

I'll start off by apologizing for my elementary drawings lol. But here's my rear k member/rear master cylinder mount.

Why did I mount it so far back? Idk.. this is the way I dreamt it to be and it stuck that way? I've seen other people mount their master cylinder to the transmission crossmember but usually a shorter trans.

Brake pedal on the left side of the column. Big trans tunnel and size 13 feet decided that.

THE LIGHT BLUE LINE is a frame bushing'd or bearing'd pass thru to get to get the pedal on the left

After looking at what you have I understand your problem.A far as mounting the pedal outside of the frame rail it does not offend me in the least. Narrow frames and cramped spaces sometimes dictates outside the box thinking. I had planned to do a CAD drawing but having a few computer issues so I just sketched out the basic idea. One thing I will say is when mounting cylinders low in the car I prefer using units that allow for remote reservoirs. That allows you to put them high enough to access and bleed without having to get a small child to stick under the cowl. Just a thought.


Hope this will help you with your project. I don't remember off hand but there are some recommended pedal lengths and ratios and most companies will have that information on their websites. Hope this help you out.
Good Luck with your project.
George

 

[Spanky]

Re: Pedal ratio . . . this may help. Most manual brakes will use a 6:1 ratio.

 

[fletcherson]

I have a t56 that I considered using behind the 427 in my t but it’s a very big gear box... too big for mine. I opted to go with the t10 but still had fun getting the pedals and linkage to workout. Fortunately I have a flat floor so the gas pedal is sort of over the bell housing but the column splits the clutch and break pedals. I get the size 13 issue.

Brake

 

[TheYeti]

After looking at what you have I understand your problem.A far as mounting the pedal outside of the frame rail it does not offend me in the least. Narrow frames and cramped spaces sometimes dictates outside the box thinking. I had planned to do a CAD drawing but having a few computer issues so I just sketched out the basic idea. One thing I will say is when mounting cylinders low in the car I prefer using units that allow for remote reservoirs. That allows you to put them high enough to access and bleed without having to get a small child to stick under the cowl. Just a thought.
View attachment 22886

Hope this will help you with your project. I don't remember off hand but there are some recommended pedal lengths and ratios and most companies will have that information on their websites. Hope this help you out.
Good Luck with your project.
George

Thank you for the info George. I really like the idea of the long rod under tension, it eliminates the sideways flex (or rainbowing) of a pushrod type. I will be sure to use this concept.

I have to finish wiring up my door bell cameras early this week and then I'm back to T Bucket Time.

 

[TheYeti]

Im still on rear crossmember and brake stuff but heres something that keeps me coming back and re-thinking it...

I dont like the low slung mustang box because it just doesnt fit right. It will require some block clearancing at best.. (iput shaft in the wrong spot, crowds front 4 bar heim joints)

Is it ok to run the mustang box like this? It doesnt hang any lower and it doesnt block the exhaust ports.. no foreseeable future clearance problems. Ill make a custom pitman arm that is a smidge longer

It will also allow me to angle the intermediate steering shaft for enough to potentially allow the brake pedal on the right side of the column possible.

 

[old round fart]

I like the Unisteer rack and pinion. Several on here are mounted outside the frame. Mine is inside the frame.

 

[lincolnuT]

The only way as far as I am concerned......I replaced the Corvair Box with this Half Rack.........I would [ut it inside the frame if I was building the car new........but this works great.................

 

[TheYeti]

I am considering a rack. On the fence about it..

 

[TheYeti]

Still making progress. Its suspension week.