The Yeti's 27 T Build
- Thread starter TheYeti
- Start date
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Did you change your mind about the cowl steering?
TheYeti
Active Member
I think it will be easier to frame mount the box. I seem to have enough room for my big feet since I stretched and widened the body so now its not as much of an issue for steering column placement.
Will mount this box similar to this one.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Should work fine. They are a bit long overall. Just plan accordingly.
TheYeti
Active Member
Picked up a power adder. It's a Garrett GT4288 made for a 12 liter diesel Volvo. Its pretty similar to the cheap gt45 clones. Probably gonna get an honest 500whp and stop there. Its capable of more.
Forgot to mention I put an early (98-00) LS1 take out cam in my 5.3. Slightly more lift and duration than truck cam also a much wider lsa. Was a cheap upgrade.
Forgot to mention I put an early (98-00) LS1 take out cam in my 5.3. Slightly more lift and duration than truck cam also a much wider lsa. Was a cheap upgrade.
TheYeti
Active Member
Picked up a 6.0 this weekend at u pull and pay. My buddy got a 351w/c4 for his truck and I grabbed the 6.0 on a cart sale. We both pitched in $100 on a cart. Ill save the 6.0 for later. Something a bit more rowdy.
Picked up a caravan rear bench seat too. Its 45" wide. I need a 40" wide seat. I'll cut down the frame work and weld back together, cut the foam, and reupholster the seat.
Picked up a caravan rear bench seat too. Its 45" wide. I need a 40" wide seat. I'll cut down the frame work and weld back together, cut the foam, and reupholster the seat.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
My kind of fun!
TheYeti
Active Member
Does it look alright so far? This body was broke apart from someone not wooding before they cut doors in and then lifting it. Im 6' 8" tall so I decided perfect time to stretch it.
After I stretched it I figured I could use more width and that width may help it look proportional.
Since it been cut 4 times I been trying to measure body line to body line and also "eyeball" it straight.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Holy Moly! Now I get the Yeti name.
At this point I can recommend as much temporary diagonal bracing as possible. Criss-crossed 1/2" EMT works well. You can flatten and bend over the ends to attach to the body here and there and leave it in place until it's no longer needed.
Measure, measure, measure. Especially diagonally to get everything square, plumb and symmetrical.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Some advice : Get 1 yd. of 1 1/2 oz. fiberglass mat. Cut the mat in half. Now you have 2 layers of 1 1/2 oz. mat. Locate a smooth flat surface for your 2 layers of 1 1/2 oz. mat to lay on. Way the smooth surface with mold release wax ( about 3 coats ) Use a clean rag & wipe the waxed area in between each coat of mold release wax. So for 3 coats of mold release wax , you'll have to wipe the waxed area 3 times. Now mix your resin & brush the resin over your waxed area. Lay your first layer on top of the resined area & brush more resin on top of your fiberglass mat. Add your second layer of fiberglass mat on top of your first one. Now , add more resin on top of your second layer of fiberglass mat. You can use a roller for removing trapped air bubbles. I use less hardener ( about half ) so i have more time to work. When everything hardens , you now have a fiberglass panel. You can cut out strips to fill in your gaps. Place them underneath the body ( make sure your strips overlap the gapped area by 1 inch ). Screw them all in place. Cover your braces with duct tape or gorilla tape. Cut your strips to fit just inside of your braces but overlap the body ( underneath by 1 inch on both sides). Now cut some fiberglass to fit inside your gapped areas. Add the mat until the mat is even with the bodies outer surface. Now resin the mat into place. After you've filled all your gaps ,& the mat has hardened , remove your duct tape from the outer edged of you pre-made fiberglass pieces & from around your braces. You will need to cut some more pieces from you pre - made fiberglass panel to fill in the gaps ( caused by removing your braces) . Now flip the body upside down ( make sure some of your main braces are still in place ). Now , cut some fiberglass mat to overlap your gap area ( about 4"s wider than your gap area ). That will be a 2" overlap on each side of the gap area. Glass in the entire length of the gap area using 2oz. fiberglass mat. Apply 2 layers of the 2oz. fiberglass mat. I typed these instructions out for an inexperienced fiberglasser. If you are experienced , then you already know what to do. If that's the case , then please forgive me. I DIDN'T MEAN TO BE CONDECENDING. Just HELPFUL.
TheYeti
Active Member
That will be helpful. I've never fiberglassed before. Been doing lots of reading on it. Mostly boat stuff.
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