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cooters T bucket build

That mount looks like the angle will be too steep for that length of cowl, maybe trim the tab down a bit at the rear of the bracket and that may allow the box to go forward enough for the set screw to clear the block. If that is not enough trim the mount to allow the box to move outward.
The body is narrow at firewall. Reason i was hugging the block so tight. If i come outward it looks like shaft will come through firewall right in corner of firewall and cowel
 
Im saveing up steering column money now. Its hard to tell where this box gous untill column is on hand. I'll keep posting as progress happens.
 
There must be some way to move the mount over s bit. Are your sure the adjuster screw is adjusted correct. It looks long to me. You could shorten it, and grind a square head on it for easy adjusting. A slot would be easier, but a pita.
I havent adjusted anything. Explain more please.
 
You should find the center of travel on the steering arm. Then break loose the lock nut on the adjuster screw. Turn the screw in until you feel contact or pressure on it. Turn the steering shaft back and forth and re-adjust if needed. You may have to do final adjustments after you drive a bit. You don't want to over tighten screw, or it will cause premature wear. Do not forget to tighten lock nut. On my box, the 3 screws that hold the adjuster screw plate kept backing out. I stopped that with red loctite on the screws, and still check them from time to time.
 
cooter, My Corvair box fits just as close to the block as yours does, although I don't think my screw stick out that far. I also have to remove the box and do a bench adjustment, but not a big deal.
 
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I might have room. ill see when I get column. $$$
 
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9/16 12 point socket. tight fit on shaft to mark firewall.
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steering shaft is at 41 deg. if I make a mark on inside of firewall where shaft comes through, then lay a straight edge from that mark to bottom of dash to represent steering column I have a 26 deg angle. that's not gonna work. looks like box needs to tilt forward and then keep doin this till I get a straight shot at dash. only way I know to do this.
 
Don't worry about making too big of a hole in the firewall, that will be an easy fix. It appears you will need to grind that mount to tilt that box toward the rear some.
I think your right. that will help the adjuster slide under that engine boss I been pondering.
 
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home from church drawing in floor to scale. see the angle change on foot.
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this is how much I believe I need to cut off at arrow. gives a 27 deg instead of the 41 deg. my brain hurts so im done for night. box bottom will almost set parallel to frame.
 
The mount you have looks like a copy of what is in our Plans (CCR) and that was made for a cowl much shorter than yours so the angle needs to be adjusted for that length. We sell two different mounts for our two lengths of bodies which have different length cowls and degrees. Some of the issues you're having could be remedied by purchasing the correct parts from the manufacture that knows those dimensions and supplies the parts that work for you, this doesn't need to be difficult. The box bottom may be flat or not flat, it will be what it will be when right for you. As I have said before you will need to set stuff up, tack-weld stuff in place and check all parts fitment before finalizing. I would worry about a huge hole in my firewall that has to be fixed later (more work and potentially something that will show thru the paint later), use a small steel rod or wooden dowel to set this up and drill the larger size hole when you are sure it's right. DO NOT re-adjust a new steering box unless you know what you are doing, the screw is long because as it wears it will need dialed in to take up play.
It would also be good to know how high and far back you will be sitting in the car before the column angle is set to make sure you are comfortable while driving.
 

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