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- Thread starter Satori
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Satori
New Member
Ok here's a couple more pics I took at lunch.
I painted the metal disks for the friction shocks. Will that work, or should I clean off the paint on the mating surfaces?
This didn't seem right to me. Does the bottom of the coil over for the shocks really just sit on the bottom mounting stud?
I'm assuming this is the right spot for these spacers. They fit and they looked like that's where they should go. Right?
And I'll throw in a pic of my paint rack.
I painted the metal disks for the friction shocks. Will that work, or should I clean off the paint on the mating surfaces?
This didn't seem right to me. Does the bottom of the coil over for the shocks really just sit on the bottom mounting stud?
I'm assuming this is the right spot for these spacers. They fit and they looked like that's where they should go. Right?
And I'll throw in a pic of my paint rack.
Mike ... clean the paint off the friction surfaces. the link to the axel should be on the other side of the arm.
The shock should not sit like that. I'm not familar with the Spirit chassis but I'm sure some one willoffer some infor here.
That spacer looks like it will work. One thing to remember about using heim ends is to keep the ball out of the race. If need be you can make new spacers to move the heim out further from the chassis or just shim it with a washer.
Those hair pins will work but if your going to be kickin the horse very often, I would up grade to a set of RPM's hair pins.
It's comin along just fine. keep us posted on your progress.
Ron
The shock should not sit like that. I'm not familar with the Spirit chassis but I'm sure some one willoffer some infor here.
That spacer looks like it will work. One thing to remember about using heim ends is to keep the ball out of the race. If need be you can make new spacers to move the heim out further from the chassis or just shim it with a washer.
Those hair pins will work but if your going to be kickin the horse very often, I would up grade to a set of RPM's hair pins.
It's comin along just fine. keep us posted on your progress.
Ron
one finger john
Active Member
For the front friction shocks, this is another case of what appears to be poor perspective as far as the pictures are concerned. I might be wrong, but shouldn't the lever extend to a point directly over the spring mount? It appears that the lever is too short and is angled back.
Also when taking pictures, try to place a flat white piece of paper (think full background) to have the subject clearly defined. Also, if the subject is larger than , say, the friction shock shot, get the camera level and take front and side shots. Actually, use a level (even if it is a torpedo level on top of the camera or one of those levels that clip into the flash holder) all the time. Maybe even use a small to medium size tri pod. Don't get artsy fartsy. No "angles". Frame alignment and various pieces are straight forward and need to be represented as such. Don't be afraid to step back and give the shot breathing room. Lastly, review your camera work before posting to see if your photos represent what you have to convey. If not, erase and try again.
John
P.S. I'm not doggin' anyone here, but if you want the proper info, you need to present the problem properly, clearly.
P.P.S. All this applies to all cameras, though digitals are easier to work with and review. I have nothing but print cameras (Nikon) so really, I am behind the times. But I hope this helps.
Also when taking pictures, try to place a flat white piece of paper (think full background) to have the subject clearly defined. Also, if the subject is larger than , say, the friction shock shot, get the camera level and take front and side shots. Actually, use a level (even if it is a torpedo level on top of the camera or one of those levels that clip into the flash holder) all the time. Maybe even use a small to medium size tri pod. Don't get artsy fartsy. No "angles". Frame alignment and various pieces are straight forward and need to be represented as such. Don't be afraid to step back and give the shot breathing room. Lastly, review your camera work before posting to see if your photos represent what you have to convey. If not, erase and try again.
John
P.S. I'm not doggin' anyone here, but if you want the proper info, you need to present the problem properly, clearly.
P.P.S. All this applies to all cameras, though digitals are easier to work with and review. I have nothing but print cameras (Nikon) so really, I am behind the times. But I hope this helps.
Ted Brown
Member
Yes you are right there.. it is not needed in your case... as it would jerk your front axle from side to side when ever you went over a bump of any kind, too short and it hangs way too low also.. just not needed... They do make heim replacements using the big 4 bar bushings, I myself would use them, as this way, the rear end has got to twist somewhere, whenever the chassis leans to either side, they need some give... both ends (changed) would be the best by far... just me here... the coilover spring/shock unit (bolt) seems to be at a bad angle..??Satori said:
How heavy of a wall are those rear (and front) radius rods? I will say RPM makes a strong radius rod...
Satori
New Member
Youngster said:
Thanks, I figured the paint should be cleaned off the mating surfaces.
It might look odd in the pic since nothing is tightened down yet, but I figured it should be on the side where everything is straightest when it's tight. I'll look at it again.
You're at least the second person to suggest I check out RPM's hair pins, I'll check them out.
Lee_in_KC said:
I'll get a better pic later tonight. It seems like I'm missing the bottom cap.
one finger john said:
The bad thing is that I do know better about getting a good picture. No excuse for being lazy the other day. In my defense, space in front of the car is limited by the front wall, but you're right, they should at least be in focus and at a good perspective. :lol:
Ted Brown said:Yes you are right there.. it is not needed in your case... as it would jerk your front axle from side to side when ever you went over a bump of any kind, too short and it hangs way too low also.. just not needed... They do make heim replacements using the big 4 bar bushings, I myself would use them, as this way, the rear end has got to twist somewhere, whenever the chassis leans to either side, they need some give... both ends (changed) would be the best by far... just me here... the coilover spring/shock unit (bolt) seems to be at a bad angle..??
How heavy of a wall are those rear (and front) radius rods? I will say RPM makes a strong radius rod...
Interesting. Not doubting you in the least. Seems odd that Spirit would put it in their kit.
I don't know what the wall thickness of the radius rods is, I didn't measure before attaching the heims/clevises. (you're the third person
)one finger john
Active Member
Satori, first off, believe me when I say I am jealous of every person here that has a garage or a secure work space to build one of these cars. At this point I don't have a garage and renting is out of the question. All I can do is ask questions, make suggestions, and qualify anything I have said.
You are doing an excellent job of putting together a complicated piece of machinery and if this is your first then all the better. I know that when I was assembling MGTC restorations that sometimes installing the engine/trans and adding a couple bags of sand to approximate final weight was helpful. Also placing the jack stands carefully under the front spindels and rear axle can approimate ride height and chassis alignment under load. I know it is a PIA to do the old engine/trans in and out a few times but I think a clearer picture of the whole project will evolve once you have done that.
I wasn't scolding you about your picture taking. Again it would be part of the project I would love to be participating in. Problem solving is part of the process I like.
Now, for the life of me I can not figure out the "front sway bar or panhard bar" everyone is talking about. I know that there are front panhard bars on front axles (see EX-JUNK beautiful front end shots) (of his car) and that makes sense. I see the rear panhard bar mounted on the front of the rear axle of your car. But I can't find the front panhard bar attached to your front axle. Am I missing something?
Especially when Ted says leave it off and Lee in KC says "the panhard locks it down".
Nice thing is that it will be figured out in the end and everything will be o.k.
Thanks for listening and help me with this front and rear panhard bar thing, John
You are doing an excellent job of putting together a complicated piece of machinery and if this is your first then all the better. I know that when I was assembling MGTC restorations that sometimes installing the engine/trans and adding a couple bags of sand to approximate final weight was helpful. Also placing the jack stands carefully under the front spindels and rear axle can approimate ride height and chassis alignment under load. I know it is a PIA to do the old engine/trans in and out a few times but I think a clearer picture of the whole project will evolve once you have done that.
I wasn't scolding you about your picture taking. Again it would be part of the project I would love to be participating in. Problem solving is part of the process I like.
Now, for the life of me I can not figure out the "front sway bar or panhard bar" everyone is talking about. I know that there are front panhard bars on front axles (see EX-JUNK beautiful front end shots) (of his car) and that makes sense. I see the rear panhard bar mounted on the front of the rear axle of your car. But I can't find the front panhard bar attached to your front axle. Am I missing something?
Especially when Ted says leave it off and Lee in KC says "the panhard locks it down".
Nice thing is that it will be figured out in the end and everything will be o.k.
Thanks for listening and help me with this front and rear panhard bar thing, John
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